Author |
Message |
Twintour
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 03:38 pm: |
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How do you get to the plugs to change ? Just got a 2006 xb12ss ,have not got a manual yet. Every thing looks easy to get to for service. Just wondering how to get to those plugs? |
Fullpower
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 03:50 pm: |
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front is accesible through left side air scoop, with a 5/8 box wrench. rear requires removal of airbox bottom, i use a 5/8 deep u-joint socket with a long extension. 5/26 fuel hose can assist at installing. not really too bad , expect it to go quicker the second time. I recommend replacing the spark plug cables at same time, and use some silicone dielectric grease in the boots. get the manual soonest. |
No_rice
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 04:04 pm: |
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the plugs never seemed to be as much of a pain for me as getting the boots off and especially back on. that is a pain since i can barely get my fingers in there. i was thinking about trying one of the long sparkplug boot pullers to see if it would fit and accomplish it alot easier |
Lovematt
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 09:47 pm: |
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It is easiest if the left side (as you sit on bike) air scoop is removed for the front plug. I remove/install that plug using a shorty wrench and some anti-seize on the threads closer to the porcelein...seems to break loose easier the next time. I also find using both hands to use multiple fingertips to remove and install the spark plug wire makes things easier. On the rear it is easier if the airbox bottom is removed but it is possible without doing this. I use the following combo to get to the plug...starting at the plug there is the socket, then a universal connection, then a 10" extension, and finally the ratchet. I break the plug loose and then use a 12" length of thick fuel line hose meant for a car and slide it over the plug (I clean the inside with glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol so it will "grab" the plug) and work my way towards getting the plug unthreaded and out of there. Then I use the hose to start the new plug (again with some anti-seize on a few threads closest to the porcelein) and cinch it up with the socket combo mentioned earlier. On the rear I am able to work the plug wire on and off by putting my left hand behind the frame(palm away from you) and my right hand from above (palm facing you) to work the plug wire. My hands are fairly large but my fingers are not that thick so this works for me...others might have difficulty. At this point I have this down to about 45 minutes from start to finish...be careful removing the rubber boot around the velocity stack and the sensor wire when lifting up the airbox bottom... (Message edited by lovematt on January 02, 2006) |
Twintour
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 10:25 pm: |
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Thanks for the on hands info. |
Cochise
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 10:26 pm: |
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Luckily on the '06's they got rid of the "webbing" below the airbox "floor" so the plugs are MUCH easier to get to than previous years. |
Lovematt
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 10:33 pm: |
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Really...that webbing is gone? Hmmm....that is another selling point along with increased fuel capacity. That would be cool if it was easier...means someone was listening or thinking. |
Midknyte
| Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2006 - 05:00 am: |
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I recommend replacing the spark plug cables at same time I'm assuming that you mean to "upgrade" the cables... Suggestions? |
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