| Author | Message | ||
     Dark_Ninja |
Uh oh...is this going to be bad? 1998 S3T with 19,900 miles. I'm having more and more problems with the transmission engaging. What happens is one of these two things: 1) As I am shifting up (2-3 for example) I feel the "snick" as the transmission goes into gear, but for a half a second or so it's like I am in Nuetral...then BOOM it drops into gear and away I go. 2) AFTER it's in gear (and moving) I hear and feel a "clunk" noise from the gearbox, almost like it just finally got positive engagement. Does anyone have any idea on what the problem may be and where I should start looking (besides in the transmission  ) for problems? It doesn't do either one of these things EVERY time, not even close...but they are beginning to happen with enough frequency to worry me. | ||
| Blake |
Sounds like worn dogs, but if it happens randomly and in different gears, that seems unlikely. Sounds too much like worn dogs though. | ||
| Aaron |
DN: the bad news is it's likely your dogs. The good news is that, unlike most bikes, the transmission is quick and simple to service, and the parts are not outrageously expensive like they are for so many imports. No need to remove the motor or split the cases, the gearbox is serviced easily under the primary cover. AW | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Great, Not only am I having trouble with my dogs@home (they are both sick) now I find out the dogs in my transmission are sick! LOL! Oh well, this is why I bought the extended warranty.  Some days I feel so smart, thank you Blake and Aaron! As for the oddities, who knows...I could have multiple problems in there. I never have changed over to the detent plate or the new Chain Tensioner. <sigh> | ||
| Rempss |
Anyone who has changed a pre 2000 model to the 2000+ 2nd gear - 1.85:1, I am looking for opinions. Is there any benefit to this change? Seems as though it would provide less torque to the tire than the 1.97:1? Any difference in "rideability"? I am putting the Baker smooth shift kit in, and as long as I have it open, thinking about this change also. Jeff | ||
| Jmartz |
I did it jeff. With the taller 2nd you'll be able to extend its use in the speed envelope. 2nd to 3rd shift in my case became smoother. 1st to 2nd became like 2nd to 3rd used to be. Yes there is less torque to work with but the engine makes still enough for a wheelie. | ||
| S2carl |
Any S2 owners have any success in installing the latest generation tube frame shifter assy onto a S2. I dropped my S2 last night and other that the shifter arm and a bruised ego, nothing else broke. Mental note, always look for the lock, evenn when you are thinking to yourself "Did I lock the bike?? Nah, I just ran in, I wouldn't have locked it." Carl | ||
| Reepicheep |
I sent my new shifter setup to somebody with an S2 when I got my Banke, and I seem to recall they got it working with minimal fuss... though what their definition of "minimal fuss" may be I don't know... | ||
| Bomber |
I've been noticing something odd, and would like to know if anyone else has experienced this symptom . . . .. the 2000 M2, old-style primary chain tensioner, chain tensioned correctly, when in neutral (engine running or not, no difference) sometimes exhibits a small resistance to being pushed backward (as into a parking spot) . . . . small amount of extra effort is required to overcome this resistance . . . . . .at which point it rolls normally . . . . . I'll post this in primary drive, as well, as I have no idea which subsystem might be causing this . . .. . any guesses? am I the only one to have felt this? a cursory search of the archives turned up nothing simialr thanks | ||
| Stormfool |
Have heard a little about the Baker shift drum (Battle2Win) and wonder is it worth installing--my 2000 x1 shifts pretty smooth third on up, but first to second is like the lottery--a real embarrassment in a stoplight drag! Any thoughts on this? Also seems like it slips in second when I really wind up--I feel the gears engage then slip and boom away I go--what is happening--I don't think it's the clutch because it only slips in second under hard wringing-- Any replies would be happily absorbed--Thanks | ||
| Aaron |
Dig back through the archives for an explanation and pictures about that slipping you're describing. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Mine started doing the same thing... plan on working on it after the first big snow. I am in "start hunting parts" mode now. Any community wisdom here about what parts I should also replace while I am in there (2000 M2 with about 13k miles)? It already has the updated detent plate. Is it worth replacing the shift forks as well? I have not dug through the parts manual yet to figure out exactly what I need to replace... I know the gear Aaron showed a picture of in the knowledge vault with the worn dogs will have to go... what about whatever it mates with (5th?)? And should I be looking on the mainshaft, the counter shaft, or both? Also, is there any value in having some custom work / polishing done before I put stuff back together? Is it like a 1911 .45acp, where a little patience with some 1200 grit paper makes a huge difference in function? Is it worth replacing the main sprocket bearing while I am all the way through the engine? No signs of problems with it, but I will be all the way in there. Any other bearings that I should think about refreshing? I will be keeping the bike forever. Thanks for any hints from those that have been there before. | ||
| Stormfool |
Consider me digging | ||
| Reepicheep |
Dig here first Aarons post | ||
| Jmartz |
Design features of the Buell transmission. Since my 1st gear has developed the somewhat uncommon but well know "bucking disease", I took advantage of the fact that the primary chain area on my bike is exposed due the work on the charging system, and removed the cassette for service. It could be said that there is no 5th gear. The "5th gear pair" only works when 1st through 4th are engaged. These gears make use of their countershaft pairs in order to effect reduction. When 5th is selected (the 1:1 ratio) engine power flows w/o the use of the countershaft. The "5th gear" pair is actually the output system for 1 - 4. This pair has a 1.68 reduction so for numbers bigger than these (1st, 2.69 and second 1.96 (1.82)) that is, even lower gears with more reduction, the mainshaft member of the pair is smaller than the countershaft member. For 3rd and 4th, whose #'s a are smaller than 1.68 the mainshaft gear is bigger, a sort of overdrive that is "corrected" at the 5th gera pair. As mentioned above, 5th does not flow through the countershat (although is spins it, as the countershaft 5th member is permanentjy attached to it) | ||
| Jmartz |
In order to have a .86 overdrive 6th, since the output is reduced to 1.68, a rather large mainshaft gear is required to "divide" the "5th gear" pair group reduction by half. In other words the mainshat has to rotate a twice the countershaft speed for the output (5th gear) to be spinning faster than the input, ie., an overdrive. | ||
| Jmartz |
The continuing saga of the Baker transmission. It has been about a month since I received the 6-speed unit I ordered from baker. It was a standard model and not the "s" that I requested. A week for the trip back to the factory and yet another to get back to me. This time I got the right ratios but and incomplete hardware kit. I am still waiting for these while my bike sits idle in perfectly good riding weather. | ||
| Tripper |
Well that riding weather went poof. | ||
| Jmartz |
Its the principle of it. Got a new work # 404 363 7066. They finally moved me to a larger office. | ||
| Tripper |
Weather is good today. If I can remember the way to your house I'll rumble by. | ||
| Jmartz |
You didn't come... | ||
| Tripper |
or maybe I did... Cloudy & Busy. I'll do better next warm day. | ||
| Jmartz |
Hoping to be ready fo this Thu's Vorticity night. | ||
| Jmartz |
The continuing saga of the Baker transmission installation. Finally got the missing items. All parts assembeled, door torqued, pawl adjusted and shaft nuts tightened with red glue. I was about to close the primary and decided to give it a spin with the starter. No go. There is no neutral light. W/o the bike being in nuetral the starter relay is not energized. Humnn, what to do? I externaly grounded the switch and Voila the relay got juice and the engine spun. Looked though the crack in the door and spied the problem. The compression pin on the drum that actuates the neutral switch is too short missimg the ball completely. Out come the nuts (tough job 150 ft. lbs. aided by glue dust), the selective star, the shifter and finally the trans cassette. Shouldn't baker do their own R & D? | ||
| Peter |
Jose, Mine works ok. I just checked the '96 S1 manual and it says 150-165ft/lb. I could have sworn my manual downstairs says 200-210..... I wonder what changed if my memory is correct? PPiA | ||
| Jmartz |
That torque spec on the sprocketshaf nut is a bear to remove after using Loctite red. Doing it with the wet glue is not that bad but after it dries, forget it. Got a new pin to insert. Hopefully that will correct the problem. | ||
| Peter |
Jose, I just had a look downstairs. '97-98 M2 and '98 S1 manuals both say 190-210 ft/lb. PPiA | ||
| Jmartz |
Peter: I don't have what with to apply that kind of force. A long 3/4" drive metered handle would do the job providing you have a hefty helper sitting on the bike. My manual says 150 to 175 but it also says 3/4" free play for the belt. Fact is I have routinely run sprocketshaft torque in the vicinity of 150 (as little as 130) w/o ever experiencing any problems. I set the front mount head bolts and isolator allens (now Torxs) to 75 rather than the 100 specified. When using the Loctite red you can rest assured the nut ain't comin' off. | ||
| Jmartz |
Report on the Baker 6-speed: Came to work this morning on the bike for it's 1st test ride. Temperature was a crisp 30 F but my excitement generated sufficient heat to keep me warm. I chose the 2.52 std. model 1st gear ratio and the 1.81 "s" model 2nd. 3rd through 5th are same as stock. 6th is .8 somehing (6, I think). The 2.29 (approx.) 1st of the "s" group seemed a bit high for my (formerly) 100 HP, 1200 cc mildly modifide motor. Gone is the 1st gear buck disease of my worn factory trans. 1st to 2nd is smooth and non-resistant. Had a bit of difficulty engaging 6th but I think the cluster needs some break in. It is great to have fresh top end, recent isolators and tires and a 6th for smoothness. 90 mph seem to come effortlessly, especially with the 26 trans pulley. With the harder islators of present vibration levels are more tolerable at lower engine speeds. I am not crazy about the earlier tooth design and the clustering of gears. As it is 2 pairs are always engaged except for 5th (1 pair) but a 2 cluster one can spin 3 pairs. Not what you want for acceleration. I do not hear any noise on cruising or acceleration but a faint whine is audible on compression braking. 6th is HCR. Overall I give the mod a good grade. When the rings seat and I can flog the motor again I will report of performance and mountain riding. | ||
| Jmartz |
Baker 6 report after 100 miles. Shifting is improved. Less effort and no problem finding neutral (not that I did before). There is less clunking upon engaging 1st but that is likely form the use of Mobil 1 trans/primary oil. The red shift shockproof goooey was likely causing the clutch plates to stick a bit more. Having a 6th gear is great on the freeway and for touring, especially when using the 26 trans pulley. The 26 is a bit hot on 5th after 75 mph. The new gearing allows the motor power to be put down more effectively (personal opinion). With torque to spare weakening the 1st two gears makes for a better transition through the various ratios and the 26 strengthens 3rd and above. 6th is a bit high for my taste as it is useless under 80 mph, and illegal speed in most states. Closing the ratios to a final .9 might have been a better choice. However, it is no secret that Baker intention is to "overdrive". I haven't gone to the mountains yet for a good beating of the bike bike's parts. I'll do that after the new rings seat. |
