| Author | Message | ||
     Naustin |
The only reason I said to avoid the Pro-Series was that I have heard of a few going bad or not fitting correctly RECENTLY. The design itself is great, but I think quality control has dropped off in the end and it is now discontinued. :shrug: Jprovo has had two of them fail with rattling baffles (albeit with 10K on it which is actually all you can realistically expect I guess). The one I'm thinking of is the guy who had to send his back because the y in the header tube didn't line up to the muffler.... I would have bought a pro-series over the bub except I thought the snake shaped header was ugly. Whenever the bub drags pavement I still regret not going with the Pro-Series... For a minute. | ||
| Sarodude |
My bub dragged a bunch. The welds around the mounting tabs cracked. The one at the muffler actually broke completely. The one at the front of the motor is REALLY cracked - but not quite broken all the way. I do believe I have the early style... Been wanting to fix that pipe for some time. -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
The back tab on mine finally broke - I went to a local muffler shop and they welded it back on twice as strong in less than 15 minutes for less than 20 bucks - now she's good for another 15,000 plus miles - I've only bottomed her a hand full of times though - you guys curb hopping or aiming for potholes? - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Sarodude |
Mine only scraped in turns. Can't remember if it was lefts or rights - but there's a 45 degree-ish flat road machined into my muffler... -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
Geez - mine never scraped - but then I have the newer style - lol - perhaps I'll get a D&D some day and retire that puppy, but not yet - its still humming along! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bobbyhead |
I have the V&H pipe: looks great, very sturdy construction and design, makes greats gobs of top end power, very light weight, and easy to repack. My only complaint is the noise, it's a real ear splitter when wound out  | ||
| Humboldtblast |
thanks for the pic EZ!, I figured it out LOL I'm blind! I'll just use a bigger washer.... | ||
| Humboldtblast |
Ok I got all antsy and put the Kerker exhaust on today to see what it sounds like... it definitly sounds like a bigger bike, i can wake the dead with this thing! It's funny when you go thru town and people are looking at you like that thing made that hellacious sound? LOL It does sound unique though...but how does the Jardine sound? Is it more deep sounding, like on the big bikes or similar to what i have, sorry if im being redundant, im just droooling with excitement with my bike | ||
| Bobbyhead |
The Jardine is just as loud and shrill as my V&H. The Kerker was reported as having the deepest sound, before the Pro Series came out. I came back to edit this in : No thumper is going to 'sound like' anything but a thumper, it won't sound like a V-twin no matter what pipe or muffler you put on it. A twins sound comes from the firing impulses, which even vary from V-twin to V-Twin. A 45 degree VT won't sound like a 90 degree etc. (Message edited by bobbyhead on December 03, 2005) | ||
| Humboldtblast |
So, i just need the one jet(170) because the primary is already 45 , Right? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If your primary(slow) is already a 45, then I'm guessing your main is already 170. 2002 should have a 170, stock. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on December 04, 2005) | ||
| Ezblast |
42 is stock - If jetted at 45 at stock then the previous owner was a good owner! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jerzydevil |
I don't know about the others, but the Jardine doesn't like speed bumps. | ||
| Ezblast |
No Blast exhaust likes speed bumps! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Humboldtblast |
Ok im confused, so what is the stock jetting for a 2002? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
42 ---- 170 | ||
| Ezblast |
170 main and 42 primary - lol - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Humboldtblast |
thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I just ordered the D&D and paid for ASAP freight - perhaps I'll have a new exhaust to show at the SLO ride - if it arives in time - the exhaust gasket is waiting! As for the WB - I plan to mate that tuned can to a certain special modified header I aquired and then we'll see. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 23, 2006) | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Ez let me know if its worth the price. I might be in the market for a new exhaust next year. I couldnt see adding another 300 this year to my bill. The wife would have killed me since I just spent 600 last weekend for what I wanted, and I still need a new front tire before to much longer. | ||
| Ezblast |
Will do! | ||
| Ezblast |
Preliminary results on the D&D - first I want to comment on packaging - bravo - there is no way anything in the box could have been harmed - lol - second - D&D kept the mounting simple suppling a bolt for the rear hanger and using the stock for everything else, however, a flange is built right onto the exhaust - so you don't have to transfer the c-clip and flange - like on all the rest of the aftermarket exhausts - just use a new exhaust gasket. Now the looks of the exhaust itself - looks good - flat even black finish - all the mounting point areas have a plate welded to the mounting area and the mounting flanges are welded to the plate - very durable wide welds - the D&D insignia proudly sits on the shifter side of the "muffler" - you notice I put that in quotes - more on that later. The header has bends in it simular to the Pro-series and starts at 1 /5/8" and then starts its step about 8"from the "muffler" to 1 3/4". Now the "muffler is really nothing more than a 2 1/2" pipe with a nice slash cut to the side aimed away from the tire - which it parks right in front of - the interior is a straight perforated 2" welded to the outer wall and maybe holding some packing - though I wouldn't bet on it - a 1/4" surround of packing - doupt it - there is no way to repack so in that way it is like the Bub, and Force before it - when the little bit of packing is gone - then the exhaust is broke in - lol - so actually it is a stepped long pipe - 1 5/8" for a little over half way then about 8" stepped to 1 3/4" - the stepped again to 2" and a bit of change - the difference of the perforations and packing. The whole unit looks very well made and the only problem I can see for it down the line will be the once a year take off - touch up or ceramic coat the finish - no biggie - did it to the Bub for 6 years - by the way the Red bike inheirited the WB for now - lol - now on to a small preliminary ride - first the negitives - this puppy is even louder than the Bub! Definately HD loud - but the tone is awesome - since I like loud - its sweet! Now performance - I can only tell a little - the real test will be the SLO ride - however, a test ride across town told me two things - off the line is a tad slower, however, 3500 to 6000 rpm was quicker than usual though I have yet to take it to 7500 - the cam hits a bit harder now though - so that is something to consider as well - a full report with comments I'm sure by others - lol - will come after the SLO ride - still - I'm not unhappy with my choice at all and look forward to its full range come the SLO ride - this should be fun! Oh yeah - did I mention it was loud? - lol - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 25, 2006) | ||
| Jmynes |
OK, so I put on my Jardine exhaust, and all I can say is, "WOW!" Actually, no, I can say, "Holy Sh!t!" What a huge difference in power! I also slapped on the Pro Series intake and re-jetted, but the exhaust was a real eye opener. This upgrade turned a fun bike into a white-knuckle hang on tight ride. I took pictures, thought they might be helpful to the next guy. Is there a size limit on the files, and how do I put them in my post? The Exhaust part of the KV seems to be closed for new threads. Where would I put the pictures? | ||
| Ezblast |
Post them here size limit is 75 K - yeah - the Jardine exhaust header is very simular to the WB in length and size - definately a formula for fun! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jmynes |
Jardine installation:  Remove these two nuts and save them for later.  Remove front muffler mount nut. Leave the bolt in.  Remove rear muffler mounts, one on each side. You'll need a 1/4" Allen wrench and a colorful vocabulary for this step. When it's all out, go back and pull the front mount bolt out while supporting the head pipe. If you let it drop, it will ding your front fender. So much for my $7.00 paint job!  Exhaust port. There's a gasket in there.  Take it out.  And put the new one in.  Take the flange and circlip off the old exhaust and put them on the new header pipe. Insert colorful language here.  Be sure to remove all bushings from front muffler mount.  Install header pipe to exhaust port, finger tight.  Mount pipe to front mount. Spacers go in shoulder first on both sides.  Slide muffler and clamp onto header pipe.  Put muffler mount strap around muffler. When tightening it all up, tighten the L shaped bracket first, then the clamp around the muffler.  Go back and tighten everything, starting at the front and work your way back. Good luck torqueing this one, I did it by "feel".  I took the stickers off and pointed the outlet to the left, instead of toward the drive belt. It still shoots onto the tire, but the left side of the tire was only slightly warmer than the right after a quick test ride (during which I scraped the muffler on the lip of the driveway). Insert more colorful vocabulary here.  These parts never looked so good! This job is way easy for anyone who knows which end of a screwdriver goes in the light socket. It took about an hour and a half, start to finish, including picture taking time. Only took three minutes to scrape the bottom of the can on the driveway. Grrrrrr. | ||
| Ezblast |
I would suggest using the stock front mounting hardware - more vibrational resistant than that which looks identical to the WB's hardware - otherwise it looks great! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jprovo |
Jmynes, Great pics. I'm more impresses with the Jradine from a quality standpoint after looking at the welds. I've gotta check out EZ's D&D too... Doe ANYONE have a long term test report for the Jardine?? James | ||
| Berkshire |
"Take the flange and circlip off the old exhaust and put them on the new header pipe. Insert colorful language here." if you have a pair of piston ring pliers, they are perfect for installing & removing the headpipe circlip, so you can save the colorful language for when your muffler scrapes the road!  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Wear safety glasses too! | ||
| Berkshire |
I got sick of looking at my rusty Kerker headpipe, so I took it off to paint it. Since the exhaust was already installed when I bought the Blast, I learned a few things about how it's put together. The whole assembly was easy to remove from the bike, as was the clamp that held the muffler around the end of the pipe... then began the nightmare of removing the muffler from the pipe - that SOB was on there tight! It turns out that there are two layers that are clamped onto the outside of the pipe - the outer aluminum shell, and a perforated inner steel core. The clamp had squeezed the various layers together - add a little corrosion, and it was VERY difficult to get the thing apart. I've seen it posted in this forum that the Kerker "crossover" pipe is only 1-5/8", but mine is 1-3/4", the same as the headpipe and the "dead end" part of the pipe - the whole thing is made from the same tubing. The O.D. ranges from about 1.73" to 1.78". The wall thickness looks like 20 gauge (.035"), so the I.D. should be about 1.68". One important thing that I couldn't see was the inside of where the branch was welded to the headpipe. On the outside it looks nice and smooth - like it might have a full-diameter opening... but there's no way to tell what it looks like on the inside, without cutting it off. Since I had the thing apart, I decided to make it quieter. I figured new packing would make it a little quieter, but I wanted it "more quieter", so I took a look at the perforated muffler core. The piece that fits around the crossover pipe is solid, with little slits to facilitate the clamping action. It's thicker than the headpipe and crossover tubing - closer to 1/16". The perforated section is tack-welded around the outside of the solid piece, so it's about 1-7/8" I.D., or 2" O.D. The holes are about 1/8" diameter, and they pretty much cover the whole tube, about as close together as possible. I figured the best way to make the thing quieter was to encourage more of the exhaust to go through the little holes, instead of just straight out thru the middle. I found a couple of washers that were about 1-1/4" O.D., and I drilled them out to about 5/8" I.D. Then I found some wire (stainless, I think) and "laced" the washers into the perforated section, so they are "floating" in the center, perpendicular to the direction of flow. One is about 1/3 of the way along the length of the length of perforated section, and the other one is about 2/3 of the way along. The original packing looked like a sheet of 3/4" thick fiberglass insulation that was wrapped around the perforated core tube, except it was flattened out and didn't quite go all the way around. I was impatient to get back on the road, so I decided that I'd just use whatever was available at home depot. I settled on a 300'x2" roll of fiberglass sheetrock joint tape (about $8). This "tape" looks kind of like window screen, except the squares are about twice as big. It's basically just a grid of fiberglass thread, with a slight "tackiness" on one side. I just wrapped it around and around and around and around and around and around and around (it took a while!) and around and around and around the perforated inner tube. The 300' roll was perfect to cover it to about 3/4" thickness. With the baffles and new packing in place, and a new coat of paint on the pipe, I put the modified contraption back on the bike. The sound is pretty much the same as before at idle, and really pretty much the same overall, except the sound pulses don't have as much of a sharp edge to them at WOT. Basically, I'm very much pleased with the new sound. It sounds good, but the sound is a little "duller", and not so obnoxiously loud like it used to be. ...but the REAL question is, "how much performance did I lose?" I dunno. I may have lost about 5 mph off the top end, but with variables like head/tail winds, riding posture ("aero tuck"), and weather, it's hard to know for sure. I'm thinking about removing the upstream baffle, or maybe even both of them, but I'd hate to lose the "duller" sound if it's not costing too much power. I got some good pics of the packing and baffles. I don't have a place to host them, but I'd be happy to email them to anyone who is interested. |
