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Brianbuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am going to buy these parts this winter: Pro Series Race Header,D&D Exhaust Slip-On Muffler,Forcewinder filter system,Race Ignition Module, and Mikuni "Easy Carb Kit" 42mm flatslide carburetor. My question is, does anyone have any other suggestions on what parts I should buy instead of what I have posted above? Does anyone know what kind of horsepower and torque gains?
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A whole D&D instead of just the race pipe and slip on. Head work, and cross road clip ons. Other that that awesome selection. Another add on would be bigger cams. With what you are looking at is around 85 hp and 76ftlb of tourque at the rear.
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Bomber
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Time on a dyno with a knowledgable tech after you've installed all that good swag (race ignition mod may not be worthwhile . . . .check out the knowledge vault)
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Josh
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Save the money on the carb and put it towards head work. The Mikuni won't make more power with those few mods.
What are you looking for? The cams you have now are good for low-end torque but cost ~10HP up top.
Also, check Aaron's posts on how to make sure the Forcewinder doesn't block the carb vent.

Josh
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Ken01mp
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 03:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

race ignition is not a good value. i have 01 M2 with v&h, k&n, thunderslide jet kit, and compufire race ignition. 85 rwhp is right on. there was a problem with the ignition and i ran the factory one with the new stuff for a while, then put the new race one in, SOP= no difference. pick up some lightning or s3 cams on ebay or something, they make a difference.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah the carb doesn't add that many ponies, but it does increase throttle response. Plus you can save a couple hundred bucks and have your CV bored out :)
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Bomber
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, Brian . . . . . overloaded yet?
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Josh
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My Sportster's CV carb was "fiddled with" by a knowledgeable wrench and had better throttle reponse than any other carb'ed bike I've ridden. He wouldn't give me his recipe but didn't charge me either. ;)
Hey Spidey, you mean you've got a bored carb? Geez man! ride harder! the carb deserves to have a good time too!
Ken, I thought the stock module retards timing at 6200RPM where the Race kit version keeps the curve up. Not noticeable SOTP but will show on a dyno kind 'o like we saw the stock 95 S2 module doing in Colorado.
Brian,
Best bet to go faster and be safer is a track school.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine isn't bored (either way ;) ) The guy who fiddled with your carb probally drilled the throttle slide. I did the same to mine and WOW. I forget the exact drill size but it comes with the Dyno Jet carb kit.
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M2cyclone00
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brian,

Better than the race kit exhaust is the Force Streetfighter. But, the race kit or complete D&D are great. As Ken & Spidey said, go with some bigger cams. SE1 or Lightning cams are a good start if you're not planning on much more expensive mods. The cams will be about as much as the carb. I'd skip the carb & spend it on the cams. With Lightning cams, you can approach or maybe do better than 90hp with the CV carb & excellent dyno tuning. The race ignition is better than stock (see Aaron's test in the knowledge vault) but there are better after market single fire ignitions that are only a bit more money. If you can afford it, good headwork is excellent. The Force intake is excellent. Take some time & look at the dyno's in the knowledge vault before you decide exactly what you want to spend your money on. Aaron's tests might save you a lot of time & money.
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Aaron
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd call a reputable shop, describe your goals, and discuss the various ways to get there. That's what they do.

There are a couple shops from which people on this board have had exceptional results. Look through the dyno charts section of the KV.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 07:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

unless they re-engineered the Force streetfighter pipe you are looking at alot of broken exhaust studs.
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M2cyclone00
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spidey,
I've had no problems with mine. I've got the original style front exhaust hanger on my 2000 M2. I've heard of a few breaking at the weld to the front mount on the pipe. Force has apparently changed the front hanger to one with a band that wraps the pipe with rubber. But I don't know how sturdy they have been subsequent to that change. You've heard of numerous broken studs on the heads?

Dave
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Bomber
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've only seen a couple of Force pipes in the flesh . . . . the one I've seen most often is hanging in my buddy's garage . . . . when it broke (right in front of the front mount) I was astounded at how much metal was not there . . . .it's so thin, I'm not surprised it broke . . . in fact, I'm surprised it took so long to do it

not much of a survey, I know, sample of one, and it COULD be a Monday-built pipe . . . . just a data point to add to the others
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Daves
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a race kit, minus the filter in stock. We can add a Forcewinder to it and get you a deal! Call me!

Ride to the edge!
Dave
HD/Buell Cycle Center
4022 Sergeant Rd
Waterloo Ia 50701
1-800-342-7539 ext 14
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Spiderman
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have seen many broken exhaust studs. Plus I don't like the way it carbons up your swing arm real bad.
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M2cyclone00
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just powder coat the swingarm black like SEEU911. His is the best looking Buell I've seen in person. I have to use a scotch brite pad & simple green to clean the swingarm regularly. Pretty quick. I hope mine hangs together for a long time. I like the look, sound, & power better than anything else. I like the appearance due to the color, shape (step header & megaphone), & it's one piece. I haven't had any vibration related problems (maybe lighter pistons are helping?) so maybe mine will last.

Brian, I'd give Dave a call. The race header, D&D, & Forcewinder will be hard to beat.
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Quickbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Question? How far do I need to dis-assemble to replace rear rocker box seals on 99 M2?? It is puking oil on the exhaust right near the head, bummer...I have factory service manual, it says pull the motor. Jim in KC
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Hootowl
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just remove the fuel tank. One of the hex screws that holds it on is sort of under the frame, but you can still get it out. You'd be well advised to replace the front while you're at it with the new metal ones.
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Brianbuell
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 07:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the help, I am looking into the Street Fighter system, I hope it's better then the D&D system . Skipping on the carb and ordering cams.
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