| Author | Message | ||
     Sped214 |
All: Before I'm spanked, I know that this should probably go in the knowledge vault (I'm posting it here, because it will likely see more traffic here initially), and I DID try to search for my answer, but got a ton of results that don't answer my question. I ordered the components of the race kit from Daves (I already had the filter, so he just sold me the muffler and ecm). I'm not sure if the installation instructions will come with the "kit" or not since it was purchased as separate components. I can do the ECM no problem, and will take it to the dealer to get the TPS done, but I need to get the muffler install instructions, please. I know this is probably premature, and Dave more than likely thought ahead and put them in the box, but just in case I would like to have them in my hands prior to the kit's delivery tomorrow so I can just jump right into the install.  If anyone can assist an over-thinking paranoid by listing the muffler install instructions, I would really appreciate it. I saw them somewhere, but can't find them again. If I remember right, the wheel just needed to be loosened, no completely removed. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Fullpower |
no need to loosen or remove either wheel. it is a very simple straight forward procedure. 3 straps, a clamp, and it easily taps off. | ||
| Sped214 |
I thought you had to remove the belt tensioner to get to the rear strap? | ||
| Tork |
If you use a 6" or so ratchet extension, you can access the strap nut through the spoke openings in the tensioner pulley. No loosening of tensioner pulley or rear wheel required. Like Fullpower said, it's relatively simple and shouldn't take more than an hour (at very most) to swap out your can. Make sure you don't overtighten the new straps. | ||
| Volkswagenfreaky |
go to www.kdfab.com | ||
| Buellin_ri |
I used a 1/4inch extension and socket through the holes in the tensioner. Very easy no need to worry about it.  | ||
| Sped214 |
Very cool! Thanks to all. Now to sit and wait on the UPS guy... | ||
| Dana P. |
And maybe a swivel. | ||
| Odie |
To save yourself time and effort in the future turn the two rear clamps around so they are accessible from the left side of the bike. Makes it tons easier when you need repaint pipe over the winter months, etc.  | ||
| Madsx |
I believe it is recommended to replace the front strap as it becomes stressed from torque and may snap when retorqued and under strain. I havent done mine yet but have one waiting to go on soon. Its been raining so much I havent been able to ride anyway. | ||
| Cruisin |
It won't snap when re-torqued, and some have been successful in reusing them. Just pay attention to the torque specs since they are really light (something like 80 inch pounds?). | ||
| Sped214 |
You guys were right. Just finished a very easy install (~30 mins). Sounds NICE! Now to see if the dealer can squeeze me in for a TPS reset before the weather gets too bad to ride. Oh, and by the way, Daves came through, as always. He included the instructions. Sorry for ever second guessing that you would think ahead Daves. (Message edited by SPed214 on October 15, 2005) | ||
| Cataract2 |
Thanks for the tip Odie. I'm still wondering how in the hell I'm going to get to those clamps without disasembling the bike. | ||
| Dragonbuell12r |
It's no big deal. Take off the front sprocket cover, loosen the pinch bolt on the rear axle, loosen the axle about 10-15 turns, take off (2)14mm nuts and the idler is out of the way. two minutes and you have a clean shot at the back of the pipe. You can clean in there, check your oil lines, marvel at the design. You don't even have to worry about jacking the bike up. |
