| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
The front rotor [carrier] on my M2 is really making rattling noise. Seems to have loosened up quite a bit on the carrier. I guess the dial indicator test is best, but any other way to check spec? Also, is there a better alternative to the stock set-up without spending $300 for a wavy rotor? Do you need to replace rotor and carrier everytime? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Silas,you used to be able to replace the carrier buttons and wave washers to make this better.Maybe get hold of Dave S or Al Lighton. | ||
| Silas_clone |
that sounds logical... | ||
| S2pengy |
The last version of the tuber front disc I think is the best & cheapest way to go, orginally about $90.00 I think they run about $120.00 now | ||
| Rocketman |
As Jim said, and you can replace the carrier too. Rocket | ||
| Djkaplan |
I just got a stock rotor from Al. It comes with the carrier. The price just went up to $140. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Would a Lightning rotor fit a Cyclone? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Yes. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Thanks! | ||
| Bent_mind |
Dan, I see in the KV that you've been thru a couple of rotors. Do you rebuild the caliper? I'm facing the same thing on my '01 Cyclone. Also, the torx head bolts ( carrier to wheel ) that the dealer gave me have a different size head than what came on the bike. Did you get new ones from Al? Thanks | ||
| Djkaplan |
I haven't rebuilt the caliper yet, but I did get the rebuild kit from Al along with new torx head fasteners and a new rotor a few weeks ago. I've cleaned the pistons as well as I could everytime I previously changed brake pads and all seemed well - they operated freely and didn't seem to be binding. I can't understand why I have a problem warping rotors. The original rotor warped within the first few thousand miles and the second one only lasted about 8,000 before it started pulsating again (but not nearly as bad as the first one). I've heard that applying the front brake really hard when you're already fully stopped could cause warping, but I'm pretty sure I've never done this. I do use the front brake fairly hard when riding aggressively, but no more so than any other bike I've had. I am guilty of doing an occassional stoppie or two, but I don't constantly do them, especially after it starts pulsating again - the lack of precise control at low speeds makes it really difficult to balance. I love my M2, but I've never been satisfied with the feel and performance of the front brake. Hopefully, the caliper rebuild will help, but if it doesn't, I'm considering doing away with the entire front end and maybe adapting forks and brakes from another bike. | ||
| Bent_mind |
Do the torx fasteners from American Sport Bike have the same shaped heads as the originals? I know it's a minor detail, but the HD parts guy has misdirected me in the past. the new ones I got don't look as nice as the original, and I notice s--t like that. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
The new bolts are different as well. They fit the new carrier and are have larger heads. | ||
| Chasespeed |
I replaced my buddies S1 floater, with a newer disc...worked great, only had to change the fasteners to teh newer style.... Anyway, stoppies shouldnt make any difference, but I guess that woudl depend on your pads maybe...but, i am running a stock rotor, and I do stoppies quite a bit, have even done a couple at stupid speeds(one unintentional).... So, my guess, would be, you are keeping too much heat, though, whether you are doing it while at a stop, or your rotor is hanging up a little, I have no idea. Once I come to a stop, I let go of the brakes. Anyway, next time you have your brakes apart, check the nabjo fittings, for blockage.... It is also possible for the brake line to act like a "check vavle".... this is somwhat common on cars, where the sopft line is going to the rotor... I wish there was more I could offer...BTW, do you have the stainless line? Chase | ||
| Oldog |
Dj I had an issue with the front breaks hanging up and dragging the rotor has never warped, the front master can act up, short throw from off to full on, clean or replace the front MC change the fluid and rebuild the caliper. If you have a dial indicator try checking the face of the wheel hub or rotor for runout, my thinking here is what if there is a runout and over time use of the brakes and dragging of the shoes on the disk cause it to warp. I tryed wiping the pistons off at pad time and it did not work that well. one last thought are you using an "improved high performance pad" the fsm calls for over haul at 4 years including fluid change, lafayette has also indicated that annual fluid changes help prevent some problems. |
