| Author | Message | ||
     Al_Lighton |
Jose (with the ' over the "e"  ), No, I didn't see it, post it if you've got a pic. Your bike pic in your profile didn't show it. To give credit where due, it was Jose that pointed out to me that the Buell sharkstooth one I have on my bike currently is something like 2 lbs heavier than the stocker, which got me thinking I need to do an improvement here. Anyone know if Tat is offering the milled stockers again? He did for a while and Jose said he lost his machinist and stopped for a while, don't know if he resumed. If he does, some may want to go that route instead of using any files I'll generate. I'm going to do one like the last one with the slots angled, another with trapeziodal slots (essentially it'll look like straight spokes). It's easy to add surface engraving as well if anyone has any creative ideas there as well. I'll offer the files for free, but will not warranty that the spokes won't rip in half on your 100" mountain motor, use assumes all risk of modifying their stocker. That said, I'm not too concerned with any that I've generated so far. YMMV. Al | ||
| Henrik |
Al: I've always wanted a pulley that matched the slightly swept 3-spoke design of the stock wheels. Nothing shiny or chromed - and lighter would be nice I can see how that really can't be done with the stock rotor though. Henrik | ||
| Jmartz |
Henrik: A while back I saw a front rotor carrier used as the center piece for a rear pulley. That will give you the look you want. Something like the old, and now defunct, Joker pieces. By the way, those Joker pulleys were nearly $500 and had a short life expectancy. HD hardens the belt surface rendering almost wear free. Stock pulleys can go 100,000 miles (supposedly). My cast iron front is rather sharp at 43,000. Jose | ||
| Raticalbuell |
I am looking for suggestions on converting my final belt drive to chain. Can I use stock XL stuff or do I need aftermarket? What is a good all around ratio? (street and nutz'n at the strip) Will I be able to get a 190 tire on the back? | ||
| Henrik |
José: that's a very cool idea, thanks ... it will probably take back seat to some touring and performance modifications for this year. I'll keep it in mind though. Henrik | ||
| X1streetfighte |
Has anyone switched to chain and if so do you have any problems with rubbing on th swingarm? | ||
| Jsunstar |
i have a regina chain drive kit...i also have the 190 tire on and doesnt rub...im pretty sure the kit has it all in there for the conversion... good luck jason | ||
| Ralph |
What size sprockets are in that Regina kit? bighairyralph | ||
| Jsunstar |
ill look when i get down to the garage,,,its in storage. ill prob go tomorrow tho, its sposed to be sunny...id like to get a ride in. hope jason | ||
| Ralph |
Ha, gotcha beat. Two hundred miles on the S1 (and two tickets ) When you see your bike next I would appreciate it. bighairyralph | ||
| Al_Lighton |
More pulleys The first three are the same as before, with 4 new ones after, weight reductions for each are as follows (lbs). Mod 1 0.268 Mod 2 0.226 Mod 3 0.432 Mod 4 0.461 Mod 5 0.411 Mod 6 0.288 Mod 7 0.751        | ||
| Al_Lighton |
BTW, I really have no idea if that last one would rip to shreds under hardest acceleration. Seen this one on ebay, though? Might have a thicker web. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1807382331&r=0&t=0 | ||
| Ralph |
Al, I don't think there'd be a problem. I've been looking at the after market pulleys and they can be REAL stingy on material. Granted, most are for cometics, not 100hp bikes. On the other hand PM racing makes pulleys that have way less material than your #7 and that is for powerful bikes. I don't have access to a CNC machine so I've been working with simple designs like #3,4 and something like #5. I've got another pulley on the way now to hack up. bighairyralph | ||
| Anakie |
I am the owner of a 99 M2 (Australian Spec) and I would like to share my experiences with anyone who can read! In Australia our main speed limits are 35mph(60 kph), 50(80), 60 (100) and 'catch me if you can'. The Australian Secondary Ratio is 29/55 which makes top gear under 115 a little difficult (i.e. 2,500 RPM). I believe this was done for Legal Approval (to sell in Australia – i.e. Noise). As American ratios are available here I fitted a 61 Tooth rear pulley but this made the two lower gears a bit of a waste of time (unless all you want to do is look at the sky!). You see we have a lot of unpoliced open road here and I would rather cruise at 3,00RPM in top. In the end I found a good compromise, 28/55. The 28 Tooth Front Pulley was purchased from Baker Engineering (USA) and fitted. It works well and is a good compromise (60mph(100km/h) @ 3,000). I now have to take approx 3mph (5km/h) off the indicated speed to get back to real speed (yes we have police cameras here!). | ||
| Chuck |
Hey X1streetfighter,  Yes . . . it rubs. But,no . . . I don't have problems with it. Jmartz was right . . . after a while, the chain stopped cutting metal away from the swingarm block --- it found its "happy place". | ||
| Raticalbuell |
Chuck, What ratio are you running and where did you get the parts? Regina chain? Vortex rear sprocket? Any help would be great. I have a 97' S1 with the old style swingarm so I am hoping to have more clearance. | ||
| Shooter |
I think the swing arm itself is 1/2 the battle, the mounting block see the most wear...what size motor sprocket Chuck? | ||
| Chuck |
I think Ralph said that 26T was the biggest sprocket that could be used without machining the engine case; so that's what I went with. A 27T might fit; but it would be close. The front sprocket is made by Chris Industries (who bought out PBI) and came from Drag Specialties -- I think -- The rear came from Sprocket Specialists and is a 57T. The crappy thing is that it was listed to fit XL motorcycles . . . only back when sportsters had chains, they had smaller rear wheel bearings; and so the sprocket's center hole was smaller . . . lucky I have access to a milling machine. They could probably have made a sprocket with the "correct" sized hole if I had been smart enough to ask. The chain is a D.I.D. "gold series X-ring" . . . the best there is IMHO. The spacer and seal (behind the front sprocket) are from the older, chain-drive sportster. | ||
| Shooter |
I see a black cam cover.whats inside? | ||
| Ralph |
I did a small amount of cutting to get the 26T to fit. I suppose a 27 would be possible, but I never saw that one was available. Chuckie baby, Sprocket Specialties has sprockets for the Buell specifically. bighairyralph | ||
| Chuck |
Shooter . . . cams are from a stock Sportster "Sport". I can't recall the exact part number. Ralph . . . I'm not as dumb as I really am  | ||
| Ralph |
Scary part is, I am as bumd as I am. bighairyralph | ||
| Aaron |
Team Elves just listed a whole bunch of chains & sprockets & such on E-bay. These parts are particularly applicable to all you RR1000 racers out there. | ||
| Lesco51 |
What would anyone suggest about sprocket ratios for a chain conversation on a 96 S1 street/strip bike. I was thinking that a 20/50 would be good. what about a 200 series tire, any clearance problems? | ||
| Shooter |
Lesco, I talked to Bakere Drivetrain a few months ago and they were coming out with a #530 chain conversion kit for Buells (dished sprockets) to allow for a 200 series tire. 20/50 probably isn't the best combo due to clearance of the swingarm block. 24/47 maybe.. | ||
| Jmartz |
Aaron: Is the swingarm block significantly different on the earlier bikes? I would guess it might be at the engine attachment point but considering that the doodad that covers the sprocket was used till '96 the "business" end of it where the nylon rub block fits has likely remained unchanged. | ||
| Aaron |
Y'know, I've wondered about that myself. I suspect they'll all bolt right up, the back end of an XL motor hasn't changed in a long time, but whether or not it's identical in other respects I don't know, I'd almost have to have an early and late one both off at the same time to properly compare them. | ||
| Caveman |
Ok here's a multi part question. All, Plz dive in. 60 degrees today so I thought I'd go out and ride. The ride ended abruptly in about 3 blocks with a snapped drive belt. (Glad my Daytona trip was cancelled and it didn't happen on Main St Daytona!) My bike is a '98 S3 w/ 9,500 mi. Question 1 is information on the easiest / proper way to replace the belt. (Anyone have a line on 1? My nearest dealer is 3.5 hrs away, and what do they cost?) Q2: Have seen an updated Isolator available. Do I need these as I will have 1 off anyway? (Mine look OK, no cracks or tears.) Q3: What is all the tool-breaking talk about the front brake rotor? Do I need to update the bolts on mine? If so where can I learn the Nordic Curses necessary and find financing for all the tools I will need / break? Thanks for all assistance. jim | ||
| Blake |
1. If you don't have a service manual, you would do well to get one. Buellish posted an excellent how to on changing isolators. It's burried in the archives somewhere. 2. Definitely would be a good idea, as long as you are at it, to upgrade to the new beefier isolators. 3. Unless you have a reason to remove/replace your front brake rotor, you have no reason to replace anything other than brake pads. The screws in question are the ones securing the carrier to the wheel. Henrik was simply replacing his front disk/rotor with a new assembly. BTW: When you get your new belt installed, make sure it is adjusted properly (1.5"-1.75" slack with rear suspension fully unloaded). You might want to check your tranny output shaft bearings while you are at it. Most belts fail due to overtightness; that overtight condition can also hurt the mainshaft bearings and your rear wheel bearings. | ||
| Caveman |
Thx Blake, Had checked tightness just a week ago, winter no-riding boredom & general maint. I think I must have picked up a stone or the like as there is alot of anti-ice gravel on the roads here. Will check on the new Isolators. |
