| Author |
Message |
    
Mbsween
| | Posted on Friday, July 15, 2005 - 11:37 pm: | 
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What's the size/thread pitch for the bolts, I need to replace mine |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 09:37 am: |
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The harley dealer usually has some nice chromed allen head screws blisterpacked that work fine. |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 10:05 am: |
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Mbsween - Those are 1/4-20 bolts (1/4" nom. dia. x 20 TPI).
You would be looking for 1/4-20 x (the overall length including the head) Socket (or Allen) Head Flat Head Cap screws.
If you're looking for a place to order good quality inch and metric hardware by mail/UPS, order up a Reid Tool Supply catalog. Here is their web page:
https://reidecom.reidtool.com/xephr/qbe/HOMEPAGE
Here is the description for a typical SS allen head cap screw from Reid: "Made by Holo-Krome from heat treated alloy steel. Unified 3A thread fit. Meets ASME/ANSI B18.3." All those words boil down to "good quality SS hardware".
The prices? Fair enough for quality hardware. Those bolts start at around 15 cents each and go up with size and length. Prices are less in quantity.
Reid is very responsive, on even small orders, and they carry a wide range of items that make guys that tinker around at home excited about their current projects.
There is a ton of trivia to be learned about threads, fasteners, etc., and the reference section on their catalog is a good start on sorting it all out.
Jack |
Tramp
| | Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 07:05 pm: |
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"The harley dealer usually has some nice chromed allen head screws blisterpacked that work fine"
try to avoid chromed fasteners...stick w/stainless |
Newfie_buell
| | Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 09:26 pm: |
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the chrome usually peels off the fastener making them useless. |
Tramp
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 01:03 am: |
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yahtzee |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 12:21 pm: |
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*shrug*... they worked on my Cyclone for 2 years and 20k+ miles with no problems, being ridden year around and only washed when caked with mud.
I would choose stainless over chrome any day, but if the chromed ones are right in front of me, and the stainless require a two month research project, bring on the chrome. |
Tramp
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 12:36 pm: |
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I hear ya. Just look up 'fasteners' in your yellow pages...you'd be shocked how many fastener supply firms there are in any given area.
Talk about CHEAP! I buy boxes (12ct.) of grade 8 bolts for the S2 isolator plates for about $4- |
Twowheeldream
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 03:59 am: |
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cant find neutral now.... primary chain too loose? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 09:16 am: |
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Primary chain tension can cause all sorts of grief with neutral. Make sure you follow the manual to set the tension, it calls for checking it in a few different positions. An easy way to do this is make sure the bike is in neutral, and just blip the starter (with your fingers well out of the primary, obviously). |
Twowheeldream
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 04:17 pm: |
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Thanx... i checked it in a few spots but didnt go to the tightest setting for fear of doing damage... think i set it to loose
one more thing... ive checked, rechecked, and triple checked the rear wheel alignment... and the rear belt is squaking at me like you wouldn't believe. I have it set pretty loose, the swingarm, rear isolators, and shock were all replaced about 2000 miles ago under the recalls, so the swingarm shouldnt be bent. any ideas on this one? |
Budo
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 04:36 pm: |
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Do you have the updated Primary Chain Tensoner? Only about $15.00 and well worth it. |
Twowheeldream
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 04:48 pm: |
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lol, yep, thats what started the thread |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 05:17 pm: |
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*wince*. Pull the rear tire, put the bike in neutral, and pull the belt from the front sprocket. I think you will need to remove the sprocket cover as well to do this, and maybe a footpeg. I don't remember exactly what all is involved, but it was not a bad job. Just don't loose the spacers in there.
Anyway, when you get that off, rotate the front sprocket by hand while in neutral. If that squeaks by itself, or feels or sounds at all "crunchy", you may have shot needle bearings in your 5th gear drive assembly.
I am not saying for sure this is the case, but it would describe your symptoms, and if it is bad and you ignore it, it will get harder and more expensive to repair (you will trash the tranny manishaft or countershaft, can't remember which is which).
Anyway, don't panic, but it is worth checking. A "weaker" check might be just getting the rear wheel off the ground, and repeating the test with the belt and sprockets good and wet from a garden hose. If the squeak changes as everything gets wet, it is probably a belt/sprocket issue. If the squeak does not change, it may be the 5th gear drive assembly. You could do that without taking anything (else) apart.
You at least want the rear wheel off the ground (or the belt off the front sprocket) somehow to check it. Even when mine was *well and truely* shot, you could not tell by pushing the bike around. You could barely tell by turning the tire by hand. You could tell by turning the front sprocket (sans belt) by hand, but even then it was pretty subtle, even well after my countershaft was destroyed. The whole assembly basically becomes a plain bearing instead of needle bearings, and gradually destroyes itself. |
Tramp
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 05:44 pm: |
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that's not likely the case, as he said it's "sqauking"
mine did that for along time, it turned out
to be a pebble stuck deep in the inside of the belt.
I've also gotten that squawk after the machine has sat in the rain...
what's all this "rear belt" mubo-jumbo? you have a front one? kinda like "rear swingarms" and "front fairings"...tramp |
Twowheeldream
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 11:20 pm: |
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i see your point Tramp... never thought of it that way....
I'll take a closer look at the belt tomorrow... check to see if there is anything stuck in it, and then go on to your suggestions Reepicheep.
a little more info on the situation.... when i look down at the sprocket after backing out of a parking spot... the belt is closer to the engine and the squaking doesn't start untill i make it around the corner. at that point the belt is all the way to the right, riding against the shoulder of the sprocket. I think thats where the squaking is coming from.... just not sure whats causing the belt to track over from side to side. I thought it was an alignment issue so thats why i triple checked the rear wheel alignment.
thanks again for the help guys |
Tramp
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 11:26 pm: |
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dang- that's right- i had the same exact problem with mine two years ago.
it wasn't the pebble, i don't think, as the belt was riding close to the sprocket's inside edge... It wasn't alignment either....
geez...i can't remember what it was , now.
i remember it was a brainless fix, though.... |
Twowheeldream
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 12:00 am: |
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well, if anything comes to mind... please post. im going to double check the belt for debris anyway, better safe than without a belt |
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