| Author | Message | ||
     Ryker77 |
I was tracing wires in the manual and it looked like I could just delete the injectors and stick a carb on the bike. Then I read that brewster has allready did this  Just a few simple question -- 1. does the ECM read a fault code with the unhooked/removed injectors? 2. if so does the ECM go into "saftey or limp" mode like some cars do when there is a problem? 3. then all I would have to do is remove the lamp bulb --- southern style!!! 4. for keeping the stock ignition - does the ECM need to keep the engine temp sensor and air intake sensor for spark MAP control and timing advance? 5. will the Force air intake from an FuelInjection fit on a carb? 6. does the stock throttle cables work on a cv44 or mikuni carb? 7. Last but not least how did brewster do away with the fuel pump? wow lots of simple questions any help would be great!  (Message edited by ryker77 on June 27, 2005) | ||
| Ryker77 |
Lets keep this topic on track. I would assume that LOTS of people would love to follow in brewsters tracks and have a SIMPLE carb set-up! | ||
| Brewster |
1. I don't know. I have no way to check the ECM and it runs too good. 2. I went on a 300 mile round trip and ran it up to 115 mph with no trouble. I don't think there is a "limp home" mode in this module. Remember it runs with the fuel pump unplugged to relieve the fuel pressure. 3. I removed the injectors, IAT sensor, and the engine temp sensor. I taped up the ends and wire tied them out of the way. I plan on unplugging the check engine light later. 4. It appears that the ignition is a complete stand alone part of the ECM. I think the ECM is rather stupid as ECM's go. It appears to have very little memory. I never got a code no matter how bad the bike was running. It did not keep track or even seem to be aware of misfires.} | ||
| Ryker77 |
Awesome. Just need to know about the fuel pump issue and the thottle cables. And track down a cheap carb and intake. | ||
| Brewster |
5. I don't know, but the race kit air cleaner fit both the injector body and the stock CV carb. 6. The stock injector throttle cables fit the carb perfectly. 7. I had bought an extra set of bodywork so I had a fuel injection tank with the pump removed. On the rear wiring hole, I epoxied a piece gas proof plastic over it on the outside. It can't be seen unless you get underneath the tank. I got a hydraulic fitting called a bulkhead fitting the same size as the front hole. I welded a washer to one end, made a flat neoprene rubber washer to go under the metal washer. On the outside I used a flat metal washer, star lock washer, and another nut. A 1/4" air nipple, inline petcock, and fuel filter finished it up. I did all this on the spur of the moment. I was done with the injection and didn't know what else to do. I didn't know if it would work or not but I had to try something. I enjoy riding the bike without constantly listening for misses.} (Message edited by brewster on June 27, 2005) | ||
| Ryker77 |
Cool deal. Just need to find a spare fuel tank and maybe get one with a fuel pump that I can gut out. thanks for the help  | ||
| Oldog |
Ryker: you may want to keep the head temp probe the ecm may alter the ignition timing when the engine is too hot Just My .02$ there is a section in the KV on the force winder and issues with SOME carb vents i don't think it was an issue with the Mic, check and see, good luck | ||
| Ryker77 |
I just put the 40.00 ET sensor on! So I'll leave it. I've emailed force to find out if the intake will work. My only concern now is having to use epoxy and southern engineer a fuel petcock  Not to keen about having 3 gallons of flammable fuel sitting right above a HOT engine. Too bad m2,s1,or older s3 fuel tanks won't work. I love the old larger s1 fuel tank. | ||
| Chasespeed |
So lemme get this straight....(not to sound stupid)... I can disconnect, my inectors... run a carb(and carb intake), leave the rest intact and it will still run(wiht a CEL)? NO new ignition module...? Though I have no clue what I can do with the X1's fuel cell, but I can figure that out.... If so, I know what I am about to do, as I am over the fuel infection..... Chase | ||
| Ryker77 |
From what I've been told you'll not get a CEL. Even if you do simply remove that light bulb. Fuel cell. I "think" we can unhook the fuel pump but leave it in place. Then simply drill an hole and put some really good epoxy on a petcock and thread that into the hole. Another option might be to take apart the fuel pump and remove the pump parts. Then just install an on/off fuel valve. No reserve setting but the gas light might still work. | ||
| Brewster |
I think the real problem is that Buell will not come out and tell us how the ECM works. They can't because that would be an admission that their fuel injection system is deficient. It does not have the adjustability and ease of operation that a true performance system needs. We are left to try things with no idea whether or not they are safe or effective. } | ||
| Brewster |
P.S. I would like to see someone try this without removing either the IAT or ET sensors. the only changes would be removing the injector body. Would it run better? I don't know, but I would like to find out. I am still extremely satisfied with how my S3 is running now. | ||
| Craigster |
I have a new unused standard (carb) intake manifold if any of you fine gentlrmen would want to unload your injector style manifolds. | ||
| Chasespeed |
Craigster, if Ryker, doesnt jump on this, lemme know, as I am seriously wanting to give all this a try, canthurt at this point...cant possible run any worse.... cough, spit sputter..... Though I would have to find a carb...this is my primary transportation... Chase (Message edited by chasespeed on June 29, 2005) | ||
| Bluelightning |
I just pulled a modified (flowed) stock intake and HEAVILY modified stock carb (lighter needle, flowed slide and larger jets as well as upgraded accelerator pump) that has a thunderjet installed that I will be putting on e-bay unless someone here wants to buy the set up 1st. Make me an offer and it may be yours. I pulled out the ecm and went with the Crane Hi-4 ignition. I also stripped out the mess of extra wiring that is no longer being used. Cleaned up the wiring quite a bit and it runs much better to boot. | ||
| Ryker77 |
Bluelighting, how much for that setup? What are you switching to? --- Does the tach work off signal from Hi-4? what about the idiot lights? --- How did you tackle the fuel pump removal and petcock install? | ||
| Ryker77 |
Bluelighting "I removed my pump and fabricated up 2 plates (1 inside and 1 outside) of the tank made of aluminum, drilled and tapped the plates with a piece of rubber gasket material (make sure it is the type that won't break down under oil and gassy conditions) and welded a petcock flange to it (from Pingel) as well used a Pingel Petcock. You can then ditch all of the FI sensors and the ecm. The check engine light and the fuel light will no longer work, though. I have heard of people keeping the fuel pump housing and just removing the pump body, allowing fuel to freely flow down into the opening for the petcock, you'd have to make up some type of an adapter to connect this to a petcock, or use an inline petcock, then you could keep your low fuel light." | ||
| Chasespeed |
If anyone has done anythign like this to the X1's plastic fuel cell, I would be interested to see some pics, or have a detailed explanation.... I am seriously wanting to do this... BTW, what does one of those Hi-4s run? I could use one of the lights as a shift light....hmmm Chase | ||
| Brewster |
I parked my S3 in the garage and came back later to find fuel pouring out of my plastic/epoxy patch on the rear tank hole. I will fabricate a plate like Bluelightning did. That said, I do not think the patch was defective. After two weeks of riding, if it wouldn't hold it should failed before now. I think the tank vent, that I have always been suspicious of, built up pressure and pushed out the patch. On to fuel injection delete phase 2! | ||
| Ryker77 |
Wow good thing you had not been riding the bike at that time.  I'm going to buy a used fuel pump. And attempt to guy it out. I'll take lots of pictures and update you guys. I think this would be the safest method. | ||
| Ryker77 |
carb support bracket do I need one. if so which one did you use? I think the mikuni hsr42 is what I'm going to buy. Also need a cheap used intake manifold. | ||
| Harleyx1 |
Thanks guys  http://www.buellforum.nl/topic.php?id=2481 | ||
| Ryker77 |
can you post that in english please! also I'd like to see that video | ||
| Oldog |
Ryker: I went to the german site, don't speak german, but there were some pix The bracket in the conversion photo Looks JUST LIKE the stock one with a banjo bolt kit, I used the stocker for the force winder, worst case you take the dremel to it to open her up or your drill for new holes it also looks like he's going to try the gutted fuel pump [ good idea! ] hope its going well! | ||
| Bud |
I went to the german site your not gonna make friends with remarks like that  | ||
| Bluelightning |
Make me an offer on my "stock" intake and carb. I switched to the screamin eagle CV-44 with the big bore intake. The Crane Hi-4 ignition will give a good signal to the tach. I loose the use of my check engine light from the ecm, but I tinker all the time and keep really aware of what goes on with my bike. I also kept the O2 sensor and wired in an air/fuel ratio guage on the dash. Looks cools and sort of tells me if I'm running rich or lean at the rear cylinder. As for the fuel pump, I removed it and fabricated up to pieces of aluminum plate, drilled and tapped with stainless hardware and sandwiched some oil/gas resistant rubber between as a gasket. I run a Pingel high flow petcock and welded one of their bungs to the lower piece of aluminum. If I get a second, I'll try to post some pics of the final product. After you take the filler cap off the tank. you can fit your hand in (or do like I did and say hey, Honey can I borrow your little hands for a minute???). As for the Hi-4 I got mine as a deal on E-bay. There are newer models, like the Hi-4 with the data port so you can upload and download maps to it. I believe Dyna makes a data port model as well. Most all of the Harley ignitons will work, you just need to make sure it will fit for a Sporty. Karl (duh, I guess I should have read where some copied and pasted my petcock trick from an earlier post on another thread...) (Message edited by bluelightning on July 01, 2005) | ||
| Oldog |
Bud: the site was dutch [ nederlands ? ] this dumb-••• american sends hiz apologies,  lived with a german girl for a while,  she endevored to teach me a little german it seemed vaugely familiar,  any way the folks in Europe put together some nice stuff,  | ||
| Chasespeed |
OK, does the Crane ignition have a rpovision for an aftermarket tach? Or a shift light? I really dont pay attention to mine, and I hate bouncing off the rev-limiter.... An offer on the intake adn carb huh? Lets start at I am poor, adn go from there...LMAO j/king, will ping you offline.... Chase | ||
| Bud |
this dumb-••• american sends hiz apologies, was no need for, but thanks any way  there was no pun intended | ||
| Oldog |
Hey Bud: What Pun? Never been beyond Canada or Puerto Rico I would not know any way I'm working in Miami, I don't speak but 20 or so words of spanish [?por favor donde los bano?] please where toilet so I'm tuned up on that cultural thing sort of ,  One thing that has caught my attention is the common use of the word "fcuk" here and abroad, with the confederate flag? The european buell sites that I have visited look way cool, just don't understand a lick of it.  perhaps a _______________ to english to redneck dictionary? From the porch, Ol Dog  ride safe bro ........ (Message edited by ol-dog on July 02, 2005) | ||
| Ryker77 |
Harleyx1, the pics show that you removed the fuel pressure regulator. But did you also remove the clamp and fuel pump? If you did leave the fuel pump-- did you leave it wired? or simply just unplugged it. | ||
| Ryker77 |
DONE Brand new seals, bolts, intake manifold, carb bracket, Mukuni hsr42 carb, choke cable, and various tuning jets/needles. Super simple to do. almost everything lines up. I spent more than I wanted to. But I like to have good working parts. Total cost was around 4-500. Could have done it for less than 100.00 with used parts and a standard CV carb. They only items that are needed to be modified is fuel pump, power to the fuel pump, and a fuel shut off valve. I've got pictures that I will put on my website of the fuel pump mods. Low fuel light still works so no walking to the gas station! Fuel on/off valve was stolen from my trusty Snapper mower  It was a good solid metal valve. All the parts stores had was cheap plasic kinds. I also used a smaller fuel filter. Not sure how to mount the choke cable as the X1 didn't have a bracket. Also have a check engine light. Probably because the fuel pump is removed and unhooked. | ||
| Dave |
Did your FI parts find a new home yet? DAve |
