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Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 01:18 pm: |
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Sockets, drivers, extensions, swivels,breaker bar, Torxs drivers, both sets of Allen wrenches and long Allen bits as well as torx bits, screw drivers, an inch-pound from 5 to 50, as well as foot-pound 5 to 60 and a 55 to 250, vice grips, adjustable wrenches, strap wrench, wrenches, I have found a lot of uses for a scissors jack, engine hoist and a couple of wood blocks as well. Bearing puller and installer, timing light, ohm meter, lots of red and blue locktite, roll of thread sealer, yamabond, and WD40(also used in cleaning). GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Buuueller
| Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 12:21 pm: |
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You forgot bandaids.... |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 02:44 pm: |
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FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR BLAST !!! |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 10:28 pm: |
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A 5 lb hammer and a 1" diamater steel drift about 16" long to modify the lower shock bracket! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 11:15 pm: |
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Damn - I forgot the Oak tree! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 11:17 pm: |
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Thats right, the Oak tree! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 11:26 pm: |
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Just your usual set of tools found in any home! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 02:23 am: |
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While the Oak tree is the most important tool, would anybody like to take some time out to list actual tool sizes? Maybe we can each focus on one part of the bike and list the relative tools? Or tools for just the basic maintenance IE: oil change, primary adjustment, wheel removal,etc. Just starting with basic tools, nothing specialized unless its really needed (I've got two 5ft tall tool boxes, but what I take to the racetrack fits in a 2 drawer toolbox). Right now I need to go to bed PS Best Blast, American Sport Bike BBQ 2nd year running!!! |
Buellkat
| Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 08:51 am: |
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10 mm closed/open end wrench Stubby phillips/flat screwdrivers |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 02:07 pm: |
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I'll take primary adjustment! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 01:49 am: |
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Right on Swampy! Thanks Kat. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 11:43 pm: |
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Front End: Handle bar switches-5/32" allen wrench or phillips screwdriver on early models. Brake master + mirror mount-3/16" or 5mm allen Clutch + mirror mount-5/16" or 8mm wrench Speedo dash-1/8" allen Fairing bolts-3/32 allen Front turn signals-1/2" or 13mm Handlebar clamp- 1/4" allen Headlight mount bolts-T30 Torx Headlight/fairing mount bolts-3/16 or 5mm allen bolts (early models may also use nuts-7/16" or 11mm wrench) Fork stem pinch bolt- 3/16" or 5mm allen Top triple tree bolts-6mm allen Lower triple tree bolts-14mm Axle nut- 24mm or 15/16 Axle pinch bolt- 12mm Fender bolts-3/8" Caliper mounting bolts-1/2 or 13mm Brake line to lower triple tree bolt-3/8" Brake line banjo bolts-14mm (early models may use 12 point 3/8" banjo bolts) Bleeder screw- 5/16" or 8mm (Message edited by gearheaderiko on October 08, 2007) |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, October 14, 2007 - 04:13 pm: |
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Steering head nut-30 MM Primary chain adjustment Adjustment bolt-3/4 wrench Lock nut-7/8 wrench Primary drain plug-5/8 wrench |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 11:03 am: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/344550.html?1205765092 I used a large C style vise grip on my XB. Just looped it thru the idler pulley studs. Worked perfect! Didn't want to budge to take the nut off, but warmed it up "just a little" and it was golden. Nope, didn't tweak the studs nor mar the sprocket. On a tuber, you might have to put a pipe on the vice grip handle and let it bare against the floor(?) i have been putting the bike in gear, standing on the brake and loosening or tightening the front pulley nut. it is usually loctited on the threads and it has LEFT HAND THREADS. turn clockwise to loosen! if the primary is open you can lock the clutch sprocket with a thick piece of aluminum with the bike in gear. i have also put a 2x4 in the spokes to swingarm gap to lock the wheel and let it wedge against the swingarm. tim Oldog, you could try using a filter strap wrench. I've not done it on that particular job but on many other similar things it's worked fine. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt90210.html This is identical to the Snap-on one that I use. Use an old parking brake adjuster from an old chevy truck with drum brakes. Grind to fit and it is free. I made my own locking tool out of a piece of 1.5" aluminum flat bar I found laying around the shop. If I recall correctly, you need something 5 1/4". Otherwise, Al @ American Sport Bike makes one he can peddle you. Give him or Joanne a call. They're good people. Usefull info. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 11:07 pm: |
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Tools for the rear shock: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/boar d-auth.cgi?file=/20164/33309.html |
Fast1075
| Posted on Sunday, June 22, 2008 - 12:17 pm: |
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If you are an old fart like me that has blown out his knees and ankles from years of crawling across roof trusses...get a bike lift...I got lucky and found an air operated lift on clearance for 250 bux.. |
Smyrna5
| Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 07:52 pm: |
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I guess you could call this a tool. I spent some time this weekend constructing this ramp to get my Blast into the back of my pickup. It works great. I rode her up nice and easy and then used the clutch and brake to ease her back down. Much better than those little narrow ramps when you have to do it by yourself, but it does take up a lot of room on the sides once you have the bike and ramps in. http://www.atlantamusclecars.com/DeltaWolf/DSC0000 1.JPG Built from these plans. http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuf f/DIY%20Motorcycle%20Ramp.pdf |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 08:30 pm: |
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I'd say thats a tool. Nice. |
Smyrna5
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 10:37 am: |
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Here's a video of me riding the Blast into my truck on the DIY ramp. http://www.atlantamusclecars.com/Buell/RampVid.3GP |
Hld01blast
| Posted on Friday, April 17, 2009 - 10:47 am: |
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Do I need any special tools to check my bike for spark? I have a multimeter with 2 leads, but saw something in the service manual about a plug wire tester with an H-D part number. Do I need this to check the plug wire or coil or will my multimeter work? Trying to confirm spark before I order a new ignition module. Thanks. |
Crackhead
| Posted on Friday, April 17, 2009 - 11:33 am: |
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i have just used a cheep hardware store spark plug tester for small B&S lawn mowers. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, April 17, 2009 - 08:36 pm: |
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All you need is an extra good spark plug. Ground the plug to the engine and connect the plug wire to it (DO NOT HOLD THE WIRE or plug!) or Pull the plug wire off and stick a rubber, plastic or wood handled screwdriver in the end of the plug wire and hold the metal part of the screwdriver 1/4" - 1/8" away from the engine. or Get a spark tester as described above. Using a multimeter will likely burn it out. FWIW: a simple test light is far more usable than a multimeter. Most of the time you just need to know if you have power, rarely do you need to know how much (amps, volts, etc) and its much more difficult to watch a needle than a bulb light up. (either will be damaged by plug voltage though). Watch the LED on the module. If it doesnt light up when cranking, you are definitely not getting a spark. If you have the bike running you will see it flashing. Leave the timing/points cover off and it will be ready to be seen at any time you have a problem (dont leave it out in the rain this way though). |
Hld01blast
| Posted on Friday, April 17, 2009 - 11:52 pm: |
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Thanks Erik! I will try to find a test light and spark tester around the local auto parts stores in the morning. |
Dummkauf
| Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 10:42 pm: |
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"All you need is an extra good spark plug. Ground the plug to the engine and connect the plug wire to it (DO NOT HOLD THE WIRE or plug!) " This is the easiest, and take note of his warning about NOT holding the wire! I learned this one the hard way.....those little rubber boots don't always insulate like they're supposed to |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, August 10, 2009 - 10:59 pm: |
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Posted by Milt on Monday, August 10, 2009 - 10:35 pm: Robi and others who may need to drill in tight spaces, This drill is great for getting into hard to reach places - like, for example, if you had to drill out 4 out of 7 bolts that hold the rocker box on. Don't ask me how I know. http://www.tightfittools.com/riganat.html |
Crackhead
| Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 07:27 am: |
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What size socket do i need for the front and rear axles? |
Milt
| Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 12:04 pm: |
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I think the front is 24mm. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 12:06 pm: |
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Front 15/16" or 24mm (see "front end tools" post!) Rear 30mm. This is again an invitation for anyone to list specific tool sizes here. If you take something apart, just make a list! |
Milt
| Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 12:11 pm: |
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I usually defer to Erik, because he knows almost everything about the Blast. I use a 24mm socket (which is 23.8125 mm). At least on my Thumper, 15/16 felt sloppy. Close enough, I guess. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 12:49 pm: |
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Sarcasm or compliment?LOL! Everything I know about the Blast is here on Badweb, the repair manual, the parts catalogue or has already been researched by EZ! If its not in one of those places and I know it, I'll gladly tell you PS 15/16" 12 point might be a little too sloppy, but a 6 point socket works fine. |
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