| Author | Message | ||
     Buelliedan |
Matt, Your pics look like you installed it perfectly. yes, it might rub the drain plug just a bit but that is nothing to worry about. If it really bothers you just tap the can a bit with a ball peen hammer to indent it a bit. Your use of washers on the front is the only known method af attaching a WB with the new mount so you did good there as well. Quit worrying so much and just get out there and enjoy it!! You did good!!  | ||
| Lake_Bueller |
Court, I'm not saying that there is a substitute for proper installation. I've ridden with people who've lost a header bolt on the road. I'd rather have the extra ease of mind should the SOB shake itself loose. | ||
| Roadrunr |
MATT:I just put my white brothers on yesterday and I only have about 1/16" clearance on the drain plug. As for the front mount,I still have the old style mount and I still had to put 2 washers in to fill the gap between the hanger and the mount. The # for white bros is in the instruction manual, "if thats what you wanna call it". Open the front page and look down on the left side. (714)692-3404  OH,and I put it on my 2000 X1 | ||
| Aaron |
I'd rather have a nut fall off than break a header stud, myself. If it's flexing so much that it makes the nuts come loose, that's exactly what's going to happen, sooner or later. | ||
| Blake |
Yeah, well, you already have a child!  | ||
| V2win |
Yeah, well Blake, go ahead and show them your dempled balls! How far can you hit them anyway? | ||
| Mbsween |
Bulliedan/Roadrunr Thanks for the encouraging words. As soon as it stops snowing I'll get it back together and get some riding in.  Matt | ||
| Reepicheep |
I double nutt'd em mainly to make them easier to inspect at a glance. Even with the single nuts and the factory installed muffler (never off to the best of my knowledge), I snapped an exhaust stud anyway. The second set of stainless nuts completely covers the threads and are easy to see at a glance. If they start to back off at all, they will fall off quickly, which should be plenty obvious to me before the next ride. Note 1: If you are riding along and suddenly start getting these cool sounding backfires during deceleration... it is probably too late... Note 2: It takes 3 diamond tipped dremel bits to get through the embbeded portion of a broken easyout in a sheared Buell exhaust header stud. Note 3: The smell of penetrating oil hangs around you skin, clothes, and garage for about a month.  | ||
| Aaron |
"Even with the single nuts and the factory installed muffler (never off to the best of my knowledge), I snapped an exhaust stud anyway." Me too. I'm not saying single nuts are easier on the studs. I'm saying the fact that the nuts come loose is a sign that something is wrong. The pipe is flexing excessively at that connection, varying the load on the nuts, that's why they loosen. And that's also putting pressure on those studs. Sooner or later a stud is going to break. In my view, double-nutting may keep the nuts on, but it does nothing to address the fundamental cause of the problem or reduce the risk of stud breakage. And it takes away a key indicator that a problem exists. Nuts loosening is just a symptom, not a problem in itself. I've found that if I get the system to where it's not flexing so much at that connection, the nuts stay tight all by themselves. If they're trying to come loose, I WANT to know about it, it tells me something is wrong. Double nutting takes away that information. AW | ||
| Reepicheep |
That makes sense Aaron. Anybody know a company that will powdercoat nuts with day-glow orange? That ought to make them easier to inspect  Im my case, in hindsight I am nearly positive that my failure was a result of the original front exhaust hanger, which in less then 4000 miles was not only chewed completely through all damping rubber parts, but had also chewed through more than half the metal parts. This is the only part of my Buell I have seen that looked like a genuinely stupid design. All the other parts that I had to replace looked like honest mistakes. | ||
| Aaron |
"Im my case, in hindsight I am nearly positive that my failure was a result of the original front exhaust hanger, which in less then 4000 miles was not only chewed completely through all damping rubber parts, but had also chewed through more than half the metal parts. " Yup, that's the way I see it, too. Once that bushing goes, the whole thing is moving around more, and that'll cause a stud failure. | ||
| Mikej |
Has anyone designed or built their own exhaust? Anyone want to group-design one? Anyone want to make it a public-domain open-design concept for the home mechanic/welder? Well, now's your chance. It should be fairly adaptive to multiple applications, it should pass the billy-club test where the local officer puts his stick up your pipe to ensure it has baffles, it should not be just an empty megaphone and should have some quieting effect to the exhaust note, it should be very free flowing, it should be light, it should clear the primary drain bolt, it should not have packing that needs to be replaced every 1,000 miles or so. I'm thinking something simple to bend out of sheet metal, either straight sided or gradual cone shape, like the D&D or Force or race cans. Maybe the internals could be just simple off-set holes with open reverberation chambers inside. I like how the WileyCo bolts on at the head-pipe, but don't like the leaks that develop there at that flat-face juncture. Maybe I'll just play with a welded insert to stuff into my exhaust in place of the packing, that way all it would take would be drilling a few pop-rivets to get back into it to modify the internals. Anyway, just playing with an idea or two to see where it leads. And thinking I need to get my Acet. tank refilled, and maybe invest in a wire-feed welder of some sort. MikeJ | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, I tweeked my stock exhaust on my M2. I wrote about it a while back on this thread. I could have taken it one step farther but never got around to it as I picked up a Boss. Condensed version follows.. You cut the pipe at the rear weld seam. I just cut right through the weld. You will need to cut right through the internal part of the exhaust "nozzle" that sticks out the back. The nozzle pipe extends all the way to the front chamber of the muffler. Once you have the rear end cap cut off, punch out the plug cap covering the end of the main pipe. This is the pipe that connects directly to the header pipe in front. It runs all the way from the front inlet to the rear chamber where it is capped. This pipe has holes in it that let exhaust move to the smaller baffle pipes on the inside of the muffler. Remove what's left of the inside part of the "nozzle" on the end cap and the stub heading toward the front of the muffler. Weld the rear "cap" back on the pipe and you're done! Totally stock look, bike breaths better, a bit more on the bottom. Louder exhaust note but much less than a V&H or the like. When I did mine, I started at the front. I was curious about the innards so I picked up a used pipe for 10 buck or so just to cut apart. I didn't do the rear nozzle part on my pipe, that was going to be "phase 2". I started at the front by cutting along the weld. The front cap removes cleanly as the main header pipe slip fits into the internal pipe that runs from front to back. I used a steel rod to hammer out the rear cap. It got mangled enough that I was able to easly shake it out the main pipe when it finally let go. I then welded the front cap back in place. When I got to the rear and discovered the nozzle extended all the way to the front and was not a slip fit like the front I figured I'd try it with out the rear mods. I know this isn't going to help you much with your S2 but, you still have the M2 right.. Oh, wait, you already have a pipe on that bugger! Oh well, I already typed this mess, may as well post it! Brad | ||
| Mikej |
Brad, Thanks, give your fingers a rest now, or wrap them around a tall cool beverage of your choice (or with the snow we had yesterday you might want to make that a cup of hot cocoa). I should have the M2 back in a few weeks, DailyDirect's truck is supposed to be westbound from Daytona Bike&Trailer week and will be in Seattle in a week or two to retrieve it. It had/has the stock exhaust back on it for the cc trip, left the WileyCo at home due to the front flange leaks. I'm thinking of gutting out the stuffing from the WileyCo, then replacing the innerds with metal plates and tubes and see how it works out. (Or since the parking lot patrol seems to be primarily interested in my comings and goings here at work maybe I'll just leave it gutted to ensure the babysitters know when I arrive and leave  ). In any case I'm playing with ideas. Who knows, maybe I'll do what the other BadWebber did and start up a muffler shop and start producing the things (gotta do something what with the work situation being what it is). The note about replacing the packing material every 1k or so got me to thinking some. The S2 in Breck last summer had a very shallow- taper exhaust on it, very sweet sound. Left no doubt about the business the bike could back it up with. Anyway, take care, almost riding season again. And almost time to get serious about the 1k route. Hah, we could call it the glass pack IronButt lap and see who blows out their muffler packing the fastest.  (Hey, what's this, no short-cut button pick for the old , oh well.) | ||
| Archer |
 Hey guys any one had any experiences with the new D and D exhaust for the Buell? I'm thinnking about buying a header and pipe and I'm trying to get the best out there, thanks for the help Ross | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, Was that Ron Dicky's S2? (Sorry if I spelled your name wrong Ron.. ) I don't remember another S2 with a custom exhaust. Brad | ||
| M2_Bob |
Archer, Just had the full system D&D installed on my '99 M2 last week. I've only had two rides on it since the installation, but it is much better than the Supertrapp IDS that it replaced. You can roll it on lower in the rpm range than the Supertrapp and it really screams in the midrange and upper rpm. It feels as if someone removed an obstruction in the exhaust compared to the Supertrapp. (I was running 18 disks with the closed end cap with the ST.) You need the Y front exhaust hanger for the D&D. I had it replaced under the goodwill policy for free, and the guys at the shop installed the exhaust for a minimal fee while they were at it. Both of the Buell mechanics took it for a test ride, and they liked it better than the Buell Pro Series exhaust. One small drawback though... it is loud. It rumbles nice at idle and is not too offensive for getting in and out of the neighborhood. Above idle though, it can get loud. It's louder than any exhaust I've heard other than the KT, Force or possibly Kooks. I usually ride with earplugs so it's not too bad. Bob | ||
| Jerome |
Bob, did you find the D&D louder than the ST with 18 disks ? How would you compare the sound quality of both mufflers as well ? | ||
| Rippin |
Bob, Have you ever taken the baffle out of your ST and tried it? I've gotten over 4000 miles on mine and yes it is "LOUD" when your in the throttle. Yes you can get by in town and around your neihborhood. Sure I may loose a little down low but the looks you get when you wanna get wild are quite interesting. Ryan | ||
| Mikej |
Brad, Yep. | ||
| Archer |
By the way guys, I work for parts for Republic Harley/Buell (281-295-1000). If ya'll need something let me know and i will see what i can do on price, Thanks for the advice on the D&D I think I'm going to get one and see how i like it. I want something louder and more aggressive than the V&H setup i have now. later Ross | ||
| Fresh |
Jeez guys, I went to inform myself today about the costs of the upgraded front exhaust mount. The costs here in Holland are US140.- for the f%ck%r. How much do they costs in USA ? Ill try to order in USA if big difference. Thx. Fresh  | ||
| Peter |
Fresh, I got mine for free in Holland. If you look above at Header Mount Retrofit '95-'00, ~1MB, (Service Buelletin), you'll see a PDF of the paper the dealers got. It came out 31 July, 2000 and was good for one year, but Buell MAY choose to do the right thing and pay for it for you. Copy it and take it to you dealer. You might be lucky. PPiA | ||
| Reepicheep |
I paid $100 for my front muffler mouont, just to escape from Eastgate Buell in Cincinnati before they had the chance to screw something else up. The techs seem decent, everyone else was incapable of following through on even the most simple requests, and even for recall work they were scheduling dates 3 months out before they could make room for me for the appointment. It was worth $100 to me just to not have to deal with them anymore... | ||
| Pilk |
Got my new mount for zero denero. had to give the dealer a small deposit, since I was doin the work myself, they wanted to make sure and get the old parts back. pilk | ||
| Henrik |
The new header front mount offer was extended 'till the end July, 2002. Henrik | ||
| Peter |
Henrik, Have you seen anything in writing for that? I'd like to swap out the S1W mount to the newer version too. PPiA | ||
| Blake |
Peter: I have, can't point to it right now though. | ||
| Fresh |
Peter/Henrik, Peter maybe we can combine actions on this one since were both in Holland. Henrik, yes pls. if you have that in writing pls. post. I sure like the package mentioned in the bulletin and get everything in tip top shape again, both front and rear mounts. Fresh | ||
| Fresh |
I found it, It is bulletin B-032, Quote: Front muffler "Y" bracket/mount kit. Fits all 2000 down. Must have for D&D Exhaust. Use ONLY to retrofit 2000 and earlier, is not a direct replacement for a 01-02 model bracket. If you are near a Buell Dealer you can have this replaced for free under Service Bulletin B-032. This SB was intended to run until July 2001 but has been extended until July 2002. You must take your Buell to a Dealer to have it replaced, they can't just send one to you for free because of Buell's warranty policies. End quote The above was mentioned on SportTwin store Ok off to a dealer again. Thx. all, Fresh |
