| Author | Message | ||
     Cataract2 |
Got a small question. I'm going to be taking my rear tire in to get new rubber put on it today. I was wondering if I have to remove the sprocket and rotor from the tire before I do this or is it ok to leave them on. Looked through the service manuel but there's nothing in there about removing them. | ||
| Rek |
Nope, you don't have to remove anything, just take the mounted tire in. Rob | ||
| Gearhead998 |
What about the wheel bearing? should they be replaced? | ||
| Buelltroll |
Only if there black. They were recalled and should be orange. It's covered under warranty. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Man, some of the bs you hear these days. I called a local V-Twin shop to ask about mounting the tire. Was told the Buells have a special adapter that needs to be used with them. I'm like WTF? Not that I should be surprised but man, come up with something better than that. Ah well, looks like another shop will be getting mine and my fellow Buell friends business. | ||
| Budo |
Actually the Buell does take a 'special' adaptor. That is it is a 'special' adaptor to a HD or V-twin shop since all of those wheels take a specific adaptor. When a shop orders a wheel mounting machine and balancer they order a 'kit' for the type of wheel they intend to work with. HD type or sport bike type. A metric shop may not order the HD kit. A HD shop may not order the metric bike kit (also Buell). Depends on the shop. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, problem 1. I can't get that #@%#@$&#*%^#*@%$$@ idler sprocket off. I've loosen the axle 15 rotations and that sucker is on tight. | ||
| Chainsaw |
...idler sprocket off Take a broom stick handle to the backside of idler pulley bracket and tap gently. I had the same problem till I drilled the holes a skoosh bigger. | ||
| Dr_greg |
I just about had to use a nuclear device to remove my idler pulley. Cleaned and greased the bolts a little upon reinstallation -- comes off properly now. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Antiseize help in that area? Got mine off. Just hope I didn't damage the belt. I had to pull out while hitting the wheel with a rubber hammer. Now, to just get that wheel off. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Groan... It's been one problem after another. Looks like the bearings have seized to the axle. This is bull ****. | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
No worries cataract. Soak it in some breakfree. After soaking unscrew the axle until the swingarm/forks just start to spread, then use a plastic/rubber mallet to tap it free. Mine too did this and I found this answer a few weeks ago on here. Worked fine. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Got it. Just cranked and cranked and it came free. Question, should I just use a ton of grease for the bearings and antisieze when I put this stuff back on? I don't want to go through this again. BTW, when I was getting the idle wheel off the belt was half on half off the thing. Should I be worried about the belt being damaged from that? (Message edited by cataract2 on May 31, 2005) | ||
| Fullpower |
cat: use antiseize lubricant on the axle, not a ton, i wipe it on, then mostly wipe it off with a clean paper towel, you dont need a lot, just a thin film. you do not need to remove the idler, unless you are going to replace the inexpensive 6203 bearings in the idler wheel, which is not a bad idea. i went through 3 sets of bearings in my idler. first was waranteed, second set i replaced myself, because they were making noise on sunday, and i happened to have a hundred lot of the 6203 bearings in stock. very easy to push out and replace them, no photos necessary there. | ||
| Holling |
Belt should be ok. I would recommend taking off all the belt guards while you have it apart. The next time you have to pull the rear wheel it will take less than half the time. Mine are in a pile in the garage with my stock muffler. | ||
| Cataract2 |
I'm keeping the gaurds on. Keep them on and the belt stays under warrenty. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Finally, got done with it about an hour ago. Man, never had a tire change take 7 hours before. Sigh... | ||
| Kdan |
Watching this thread makes me feel pretty good about throwing my dealer $40 to swap my tire. | ||
| Telewoodski |
Do you think the belt guards should be left in place if you ride in a more rural area? I ride some dirt roads to get to some fishing, but i like the look with them off. | ||
| Doitindark |
I guess I'm not alone. It took my wife and myself hours to get the idler pulley off. I'm still waiting on the correct tire irons to put the tires back on due to Harbor Freights cheep tools. I'm taking my belt guards off it'll make the next tire change easier and looks better too. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, I greased the idler bolts and it went on nice and easy. Hope it comes off nice and easy. | ||
| 12bolt |
Well I guess I should consider myself lucky. I took both my wheels off today to get new rubber, no problems. Axle came right out, idler pully came right off no prob. I was just a little worried about it after reading these posts yesterday! | ||
| Opto |
The FM states the rear axle should be coated with anti-seize, as Fullpower said. If this is done there is no way the axle can seize in the bearings unless you use the Buell to troll for prawns, or you don't ever change your rear tyre. Why does removing the belt guards make anything any quicker? On the XB12 with the axle wound out the belt is real loose, I remove the idler sprocket (with no belt tension it should come straight off but don't skew it or it will stick) and the wheel comes out easy. Maybe it's different on the earlier XB9's? | ||
| Starter |
Yep, procedure on 2004 is axle heaps of turns out, idler off belt off then axle out and the wheel is easy to get out. Standard practise with siezed bits is to get a chisel and really big hammer and beat the daylights outta it. JUST KIDDING - but you may need to remind the dealer that the Buell has bits made from alloy that will show evidence of this kind of treatment. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Hm... I just realized. I don't think I ever removed the tension from the belt while getting the idler off. I didn't realize that the axle shrinks in the middle which is where the right side of the tire would end up to drop the tension from the belt and idler. So, I removed the idler with tension still in it. Any chance of belt damage? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
You are probably good to go. The main belt problems are with the Gates '03 belts. Your '05 has a Goodyear belt that is a lot more heavy duty than the Gates, which is no longer supplied on new Buells. The belt guards are a good idea, especially if you ride on roads that have lots of gravel, but they are less necessary than on the '03's and actually they are less extensive on the '05's than the '03's. If you don't have the shop manual by now, this episode might give you an idea why they are a good thing to have. The many innovations on the Buell mean that many traditional wrenching techniques don't work properly on an XB. Daves usually has them in stock, and I find the parts book to be equally useful because of the exploded diagrams which show how everything goes back together:-) | ||
| Cataract2 |
Actually, I was following the Service Manuel to the letter. Just wish it would have said something about the bearing seizing to the axle during removal. |
