| Author | Message | ||
     Jackbequick |
New owner on 2000 M2, finally got a service manual and am getting ready to do some basic maintenance. SM says remove the muffler to drain the primary. Looks to me like I could get the drain bolt out unless it is mega-long. Does anyone have an easier way? I thinking if the bolt will come out a simple low profile drain tray would work to keep from oiling up the muffler. And I see I'm supposed to discard and replace the muffler clamp. Does anyone reuse them? Maybe anneal them and then put them back? Thanks for the help Jack | ||
| Firemanjim |
Loosen muffler,pull plug,use piece of plastic or-- to keep oil off everything.--Depending on which muffler you have you may not even need to loosen it. | ||
| Patrickh |
yeah, I have a real flat open end wrench that backs it out enough to dump the oil but not enough to pull the bolt. I just cover the muffler in Au foil. | ||
| Akbuell |
Not familiar w/the M2, but my X-1 service manual has the same instructions, i.e. remove the muffler. The problem is not draining the oil (on the X-1), 'cause the plug will come loose enough for the oil to drain. There isn't clearance to allow the plug to come out so the magnet can be inspected and cleaned, giving a hint as to the primary/tranny condition. | ||
| Captainkirk |
I just pull the muff-it's not that big of a deal. You can also buy one of those oil suction tubes (looks like a big grease gun) and suck the old oil out through the derby cover hole. You'll get most of it this way, but I prefer to yank the can and get it all. | ||
| Patrickh |
never thought of a mighty vac, good idea! I have a race kit on my M2 and the innermost mounting tab is an pain in the ••• to remove and replace. You need to lie on your back with 2 wrenches, and you only have enough clearance for crappy little 1/8 turns. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It should come out find on a 2k m2 without pulling the muffler. You will have to use 3 hands and a butter knife (not kidding about the butter knife part) to get it back on, but it goes fine when you get stuff lined up. You might not be able to get the bolt actually out of there, but the stuff on the magnet is not going anywhere, you can clean it off from the inside next time you are in the primary (did you upgrade to the new style tensioner yet? That would be a good time). Just let the fluid get all over the muffler, then clean it up when you are done. It's paint conditioner  | ||
| Marchel |
And it's smokes really well, if you don't clean it well!  | ||
| Jackbequick |
My thanks to all, this is a *great* forum. I'm getting a lot of good info here. I did the primary and engine oil changes this morning. I used a GearWrench (flat, with a racheting box end) and backed the drain plug out, it tipped to clear for removal. Had made a shallow drain pan out of a plastic bottle and that worked good too. Jammed the drain plug into the same wrench with a scrap of shop towel, held it up against the drain, applied some up pressure with a flat bladed screwdriver, and it went back in. I used 28 ounces of Mobil 1 75W-90 based on the discussion read here. Minor oil mess was cleaned up with a few spritzes of the $1 a can on sale aerosol carb and parts cleaner from VIP/WalMart/etc. Everyone knows about that stuff right? Great for cleaning oil off almost anything. For upholstery and carpeting spray it on, soak up what will come up with rags, then vacuum when dry. I watched a guy take up a half gallon of used diesel motor oil spilled on off white carpeting in a boat cabin with it. It was a miracle! Got a Fram PH6065A and 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 15W-50 from WalMart for the engine oil change. Engine took 2.5 quarts to halfway between the marks (including the priming charge on the filter). It looks like about 3 quarts would take it up to the top mark on the oil tank stopper. Is that a good idea? To get a little extra oil in circulation? This bike is almost 5 years old, with just over 2,000 miles, and this is only its third oil change. I has been setting unridden for about 2 years. It had synthetic in the primary and dinosaur oil the engine, I'm going to stay with the synthetic all around. So I get all done, warm it up and check for oil leaks. I clean up and get ready to a short road test and it won't start because I left the ignition on for about 5 minutes. The relay is just clattering. I think the 5 year old battery just expired. I'm going to pull it tomorrow and check it, will those original batteries come back for a while if you break the seal and top them up? Thanks again, Jack | ||
| Odinbueller |
It is tight, but you can get the drain plug out with a little wiggling. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Jack, In a word, NO!!! Much has been written in the KV re: overfilling the oil tank. In a nutshell, here's what happens; You top off the oil to the full mark on the stick with your cold engine. You go out and ride. The scavenge/oil pump picks up excess oil from the cases and mixes it with air bubbles causing it to expand and heats the combination. The expanded foamy oil goes into the tank and foams (and expands) some more. The oil level now rises until it runs into the tank vent, effectively blocking it off; Presto! Now you have an UNvented tank! You stop at the end of your ride and see oil dripping from under the seat. Curious, you take the seat off and the cap shoots off the tank like a Nike missile spewing oil everywhere and potentially taking out an eye (provided you haven't ruptured the tank). Don't ask how I know this. Trust me. I generally add 2 quarts after the oil change, ride at least 10 miles, then, with the bike level, add oil until I'm just over the lower mark.It's a lot less messy that way. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Captainkirk - Thanks for the input, may have saved me a lesson learned the hard way. I would have brought it up when hot but I'll leave it as it is. I put in 2.5 quarts (including the 4 oz. in the filter) to get it half way between the two marks. The two quarts had it just barely touching the stick with the bike level and on the tires. Jack | ||
| Denfromphilly |
The good captain is oh sooo right. I did the 2 1/2 quart deal on my first oil change and had oil everywhere. Go for a good long ride and get it all warmed up first! When I did my primary I realized my V&H had lost the nut bar on the rear mount again.... They are most unreliable. My tranny would never go into neutral at idle, shifted hard, like the Harley's of old. When I drained it there was more than a quart of oil in the primary. I filled it right to the bottom of the clutch and it took 24 ounces. Shifts into N just fine, is smoother through the gears (except 2 to 3 with a clunk). I did pull the muffler as my nut was too close to get out. Den 99X1 |
