| Author | Message | ||
     Kevinfromwebb |
I fixin to look in the manual but was looking for a couple of opinions. I took my bike out for a ride yesterday afternoon and first the engine light came on then the dash went dead and when I came up to a light it died. No power, checked the fuses and I could get the guages but just clicking of the starter. Trucked it home,the battery cables were a bit loose so I tightened them up, put on the battery tender and it said it was charged this evening. Took it out for a ride, all highway and after about 40 minutes, same thing:first the engine light, then no guages then it died, even going highway speed. I just bought the battery the last of november(stock hd battery) and the dealer I bought it from quit carrying buells a couple of weeks ago. There's another dealer a few miles away that I believe still carries buell. Would this be the battery dying or the charging system ??? I'm going to look in the service manual but was trying to decide whether to take the battery back and see if it was pro'rated or just take it to the other dealer and get them to check it out. It's still under warranty but I have installed the tfi... Any guesses or informed opinions??? Thanks, Kevin | ||
| Koz5150 |
Sounds like the charging system to me. If the bike is still under warranty I would take it in. Otherwise I would probably try a different battery first then look at the charging system. | ||
| Aka_dark_lord |
I'm kind of new to bikes, but if the charging system is anything like a car's then I would check the charging system. Put a voltmeter across the battery and start the bike. With the bike running and with everything that could draw power on (lights, etc..) the voltmeter should read about 13.6 volts or at least in the 13 to 14 volt range. Another check, although not as accurate would be to start the bike and then disconnect the negative battery cable. If the bike stays running then the charging system is putting out enough to at least supply the power for all the bikes current electrical needs. If the bike stays running or is displaying 13 to 14 volts you would have a faulty battery with probably a shorted cell. If you charge this battery overnight till it read 12 volts and left it sit for a day or two it would probably read about 6 to 9 volts (it should stay at 12volts). If the bike fails the first two tests then the charging system cannot supply enough power to run the bikes electrical requirements and thus draws from its reserve (battery) and it will run until that reserve runs out. Once you start a bike it should never run off the battery. The battery is only for starting the bike and as a reserve. Also the XB9's only have a charging system rated for 494 watts. If you have extra lights or accessories you may be pushing your charging system to its limit. Hope this helps, but I wouldn't buy anything till I was for sure. | ||
| Buellridersww |
There is a possibility voltage regulator quited working as mine went two weeks ago exactly what you went through. Dashboard light, speedometer, rpm went "dead" and the engine light came on. I was lucky since I had few days left on the warranty expiration. I had the same thought on charging system failure. Did check the voltage drop while running the bike. The service said it was the voltage regulator. Now I have it back and it is running fine. BTW: HD has bad luck with voltage regulator for years. | ||
| Kevinfromwebb |
Thanks Guys, I"ve got rides both saturday and sunday I was planning on doing so I'm just going to call that dealer and if they're still carrying buells I"m going to take it in and let them check it out if they can get to it... Kevin p.s. I'm tired of getting the family out and loading that heavy thing in my truck... | ||
| Reepicheep |
If the terminals stayed tight, then it is likely either a dead stator, or a bad regulator. Bad stators usually really stink, pop off the primary chain inspection cover and take a whiff. The manual gives great diagnosis procedures, but a quick check would be to disconnect the connector between the stator and the voltage regulator, and measure side going back to the stator. There will be 3 pins on an XB (2 on a tuber). Resistance between any two pins should be like .2 ohms. Resistance between any pin and a good bike ground should be infinity. With the bike running at 2000 RPM, you should see (from a dim memory) 16 volts *** AC *** between each pin. I think it goes up by about 10 volts AC per 1000 RPM increase. | ||
| Fullpower |
DO NOT EVER DO WHAT DARK LORD SAID> REMOVING THE BATTERY CABLE ON A RUNNING MOTORCYCLE WILL DESTROY THE REGULATOR. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ON ANY RUNNING VEHICLE. | ||
| Robxb |
I had an episode as well on my Road King tonight. I was out riding and noticed that the engine light came on. No big deal, I'll run it over to my dealership tomorrow. Then the bike started to bog down (it's fuel injected) and I noticed that the head light was going dim, then dash lights went off and so did the bike. I called a friend and he came with jumper cables, got the bike ALMOST home and it died again. The bike has been sitting for a while with out a battery tender since I got the XB, could the battery just have been dying ? should I try hooking it up to a tender to see if it will re-charge ? or do I need to buy a new one ??? | ||
| Robxb |
Need to get it fixed by sunday because I'm leading my H.O.G. chapter on a ride, so I'll need the road king | ||
| Reepicheep |
I agree that disconnecting the battery cable on a running vehicle is hard on the regulator, but don't think it would immediately break anything, especially at lower RPM. A disconnected battery *would* be the worst case scenario for our style regulator though. Rob, could be anything, but what you describe sounds more like regulator or stator then battery (unfortunately). | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
My bike died about halfway home tonight. I'm pretty sure i left my fluking parking lights on in the shop today  . I had to bump start it twice and roll into an autoparts parking lot. They charged it for an hour and i went home and put it on the charger. Bike will not run with a dead battery, lots of popping and sputtering. | ||
| Fullpower |
so you got the model without carburetors and magneto ignition also. mine is the same way. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
AKA "Once you start a bike it should never run off the battery. The battery is only for starting the bike and as a reserve. Also the XB9's only have a charging system rated for 494 watts. If you have extra lights or accessories you may be pushing your charging system to its limit." So if i got my bike bump started and the bike wont stay running with a dead battery does that mean my stator or regulator is bad. Fullpower, love the post. | ||
| Daman |
My stator and voltage reg. went out 4 times in less than 9,000 miles. They just kept replacing it under warrenty and the forth time they had a buell electrical engineer come to the dealer and check the bike. They thought it was loose connectors under the black plastic belt guard. So they zipped tied them together. | ||
| Hanses25 |
Any of you guys notice that when you start your bike there is a split second hesitation. Well I put a batter tender on my battery and after a few hours I took it off and started the bike. No hesitation after being tenderized. hmmmmmmmmmm | ||
| Odinbueller |
Usually, if the instrumentation goes dead followed by the entire bike, it sounds like an over-charging situation. Put a volt meter on your battery, and rev the engine to 2000 to 3000 RPM and see what the voltage is. If it's over 15 volts, then your regulator is overcharging your battery, which will eventually cook it. The slowly dimming lights and poor performance is indicative of a bad stator not putting out enough juice. Bad battery just won't hold a charge and will need a jump or bump start every time. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks Odin, i brought my voltmeter home with me today and will check things out this weekend. Last night the gauges died about a half mile from my house but the bike seemed to still be running alright. | ||
| Kevinfromwebb |
Well, I finally got the answer today. They think it's a bad stator. Two day parts turnaround and they won't order till monday. grrrrr Oh well, at least I'll be able to ride it in a few days... And I got a new can to put on it today. I think I'll put it on the mantle until I get the bike back.  Kevin | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
How hard is it to change the stator and what parts are needed.(gaskets, etc.) Mine smells kinda like burnt popcorn through the primary inspection cover. When i put my meter on the battery while running it shows 11.9vdc, then rev to 3000rpm and there is no change. This is a stator prob. right? | ||
| Odinbueller |
It might be, but you need to check you stator at the stator plug. Checking voltage at the battery with high RPM only shows what voltage the regulator is letting get by. If it showed 15 VDC or more at 3000 RPM your regulator is bad. Now, to check the stator, you need to make sure your ignition switch is off. Remove the sprocket cover, and disconnect the plug between the regulator & stator. Set you multimeter to check for continuity on the RX1 scale. Insert the positive lead into any of the stator sockets, and attach the negative lead to any suitable ground. There should be no continuity, or infinite ohms. Anything different points to a grounded stator, which needs to be replaced. Next, remove the negative lead, and check the resistance across the stator plugs (pug into 1-2, 2-3, and then 1-3). Resistance should be 0.1 to 0.3 ohms. If the resistance is lower, then the stator is damaged and needs replacement. Be sure to short your leads on your multimeter to make sure your reading is 0 ohms; otherwise you need to subtract the lowest value to the value of resistance of the stator. Next, you need to check AC Output. Put your multimeter on VAC, and plug into sockets 1-2. Start the bike and rev to 2000 RPM. VAC should be 32 to 40 VAC. The stator should put out approximately 16 to 20 volts per 1000 RPM, so check at idle, 2000, 3000 and 4000 RPM to be safe. Check VAC across sockets 2-3 and 1-3 going through the steps listed above and compare the readings. If the output is low, it could be a bad rotor, stator or both. If you're within spec, it could be a bad regulator. This is all listed in the service manual, but I like to keep in practice by posting help on the BadWeb. The procedure I know, the numbers sometimes escape me. Well worth the $58.00 to have on hand, diagrams and all. Hope this helps. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks for your help Chris. I will check the things you listed to make sure what my problem is. I know from reading posts here some people would rather waste their time posting RTFM than helping out. I do know annoying it can be to have questions about things that are explained in a manual though being in the service industry. My service manual was ordered two weeks ago from a local dealership and hasn't arrived yet. I really haven't needed it until now though so thats good i guess. Again thanks for your help. Jeremy | ||
| Kevinfromwebb |
Oh, another update. Got a message saturday morning that it was the stator and the regulator... And then I see tatsu's post on back ordered stators, I"m getting a bit nervous... Kevin | ||
| Chainsaw |
Is an aftermarket stator a readily available option for the XB's? | ||
| Odinbueller |
No problem, Jeremy. Like i said, it keeps me up on processes and stuff. There's nothing more frustrating that replacing a component, then finding out it was a completely different component! If you need a service manual, I believe we have some at our store, just need to know year & model, and I can check to see if we have what you need. I highly recommend investing in a parts catalog as well. Also, the stator is on backorder status with the motor company (being heavily used to assemble 2006 models), however, I checked on another thread, (actually the one Kevin mentioned) and there are 23 dealers around the country that supposedly have it in stock. DaveS can probably get one for ya with minimal fuss, or I can see if my Parts Manager will be willing to work with the BadWeb to help out as well. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
I think i'll be alright with the manual but the parts wait has got me alittle worried. My bike is my primary transportation and I don't think I could go without it for very long. I will call the four dealerships that are close to me Monday and see if they have any in stock. If I replace the stator should I just change the regulator while I have it apart? (see kevins post) Thanks, Jeremy | ||
| Odinbueller |
Well, it wouldn't hurt, but no sense in replacing something that ain't broke. Wouldn't be bad to have an extra on hand just in case. What state are you in? I can check dealer availability for a stator for ya. May be a while before I get back to ya (only day off with my daughter), but I will find out the closest dealers for you. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
I'm in Charlotte, NC. I know of five dealerships within about an hour. If you check availability that would be great. No rush though, I will be riding it to and from work just charging it overnight and during the day at the shop. Thats what I did Friday and it work ok. Thanks. | ||
| Odinbueller |
Looks like Shelton's H-D has one, according to the motor company. That is, if their inventory is correct. P-(919) 731-2776 F-(919) 735-1889 Not sure how many they would have, but give them a call and see if they can lay a hand on one. The next closest one is Stone Mountain H-D in Lilburn, GA: P-(770) 979-7999 F-(770) 979-5449 Again, this is only helpful so long as their inventory is correct on their dealer systems database. Hope this helps. | ||
| Odinbueller |
Also, don't forget primary cover and inspection cover gaskets, sport trans fluid or Syn3, and the tools to lock your primary down for disassembly. Blue loctite wouldn't hurt on the primary cover fasteners, either. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks Chris, i'll be on the phone Monday trying to get the needed parts together. If you ever make a trip this way let me know and we'll go for ride maybe get a beer or six. Later Jeremy. | ||
| Odinbueller |
Cool. Glad to help out. Next time they let me ride to MMI Orlando for a class, I'll swing by. Hope all goes well with the repair. |
