Author |
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Mikej
| Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2002 - 04:03 pm: |
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Spike, I find having the pouch hanging there serves as a reminder as I turn on the petcock or pull the enrichener, as in "hmmm, flap open, pouch empty, better turn this off and remove the disk lock before I take off". |
Henrik
| Posted on Saturday, February 16, 2002 - 11:51 pm: |
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Welding equipment advice: I needed a few bits and pieces welded, and the quotes I get around here are outrageous - to the point of matching the cheaper Craftsman welding units in price. So ... what'd be your buying advice considering: Price: $2-400 (used is ok) Kind: I currently don't have room for the tanks, so gas is out. I wouldn't mind being able to "upgrade" at a later time. stick, Flux-core, wire feed ? Voltage: preferrably 120 Volt, I do have 230 Volt, but not easily accessible. Use: I'd like to weld mild steel,thin wall stainless steel and aluminum - and of course I'd like to make good looking welds too Henrik |
Peter
| Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2002 - 06:26 am: |
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Henrik, If you have room for quite small cylinders, I've only heard good things about these, but never used one myself. Henrob 2000 An Australian invention, of course PPiA |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2002 - 10:58 am: |
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Henrik, I have thought about the same thing. It would be nice to make quick and simple little welds every now and then. Home Depot (an Ohio home superstore) has this little kit that I have been tempted to try, it includes two tanks (the size of those small acetelene bottles), forget what gas it uses (MAPI maybe, whatever that is). The whole kit (two bottles, valves, tip) was around $60. Replacement gas bottles were there as well. Anyone know anything about this stuff? I figure it would work ok for cutting, but don't know about brazing / welding... Bill |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2002 - 12:43 pm: |
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Peter, Bill: Keep in mind I'm only a hack when it comes to these things. My only experience with welding is a bit of stick welding in shop class *so* many years ago. To equip me with flammable/explosive gasses etc. may not be smart . Besides, since I don't have a garage, all my tools go in the apartment, which just wouldn't be safe. Very nice torch set-up though, and a reasonable price as well. Home Depot: one of my favorite stores - and a great place to bond with your father-in-law as well. We went into the tool section for some screw driver bits and, to Melissa's dismay, came out with an electrical screw driver (& bits) and a circular saw. Made perfect sense to both her dad and me Henrik |
Oldman
| Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2002 - 01:24 pm: |
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reepicheep don't bother, mine still sits around, the gas is good for plumbing though. if you want to have something that you want to use more than once just go to your local graingers or simular place and just get the small professional setup, tanks are refillable plus a wide range of torch setups. |
Shot_Gun
| Posted on Monday, February 18, 2002 - 04:03 pm: |
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gstewart: Thanks a ton for the stand info! Any of you recommend a header for my S2. I pancaked mine in a little highside incedent. |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Monday, February 18, 2002 - 06:13 pm: |
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Henrik asked: I'd like to weld mild steel,thin wall stainless steel and aluminum - and of course I'd like to make good looking welds too Humm ... No gas ... well you've narrowed that down real quick. So you'll be looking for a stick machine specifically then and that "someday" you'll do some TIG welding with it. You won't want a wire machine (MIG) in my opinion unless you run a purge gas with it. For starters, the only way to weld aluminum is with TIG, which takes a high freq machine and out of your price range. You can use a MIG machine too, but they're out'a your price range. Stick welding aluminum is a pretty tough cookie and I wouldn't suggest it. You won't be happy with the results ... promise. Lincolns' (V200-T AC/DC) and Millers' (MaxStar 140 AC/DC) are light duty welders, run on 230v (Lincoln) or 230v (Miller) and they weigh from 30 to 10 or so pounds. We use them at work everyday, but they'll cost you about $800.00. The MaxStar AC/DC lineup is pretty nice, weighs only about 10lbs. and is a stick or TIG machine. Lincoln has a inexpensive model called V100-S that runs about $350.00, 115v and is a stick or TIG welder, but I haven't used it. An inexpensive quality MIG welder will cost you at least $400.00 on up. In all cases, keep in mind that if you want to TIG or MIG weld, you'll need purge gas. That means an additional cost of renting or purchasing a bottle and buying the guage setup and purge hose. So, if I were looking for something, I'd try and find a used MaxStar TIG/Stick, with the carry case, guage and maybe you'll get a few extra parts with it (collets, cups, tungsten, gas lens, extra torch etc.). Good luck, -JW:>) |
Henrik
| Posted on Monday, February 18, 2002 - 10:05 pm: |
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Jim,thanks much for the additional info. I've done a bit more reading on-line. Seems like stick welding is difficult if you want it to look decent? An inexpensive MIG unit might work with wire feed flux core until I get room for purge gas. Hobart has such a unit, but I have no idea of the quality of their stuff or of MIG welds in general. Also the wire feed MIG units seem to quite a bit bigger than TIG/stick units. The Hobart site has some nice descriptions of what the different technologies are btw. TIG supposedly is the cat's meow, but expensive and more difficult to do? What do you think as far as ease of use and quality of welds for a novice welder? Gauges and hose runs $100 - 200. I don't have pricing on a bottle. The Lincoln V100-S looks like a nice unit, but also requires purchase of an optional TIG torch (it's still electrical, right?), hose, tungsten bits etc. On Miller's site the Maxstar units are listed as welding steel and stainless only, no aluminum - however, that may be in stick mode. In TIG mode do you think the Maxstar 140 would weld aluminum also? Miller Welding equipment Lincoln Welding equipment more welding information Thanks again Henrik |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Monday, February 18, 2002 - 11:54 pm: |
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Henrik wrote: Seems like stick welding is difficult if you want it to look decent? Henrik, Stick welding takes practice, a good eye watching the puddle, steady hand, arc length can be critical and a few techniques. An inexpensive MIG unit might work with wire feed flux core until I get room for purge gas. Hobart has such a unit, but I have no idea of the quality of their stuff or of MIG welds in general. There's nothing wrong with Hobarts, I've used every brand that I'm aware of over the years, but not every model. Keep in mind that if you go with a flux-core MIG welder it can only be used to weld mild steel. You'll have more weld splatter with flux-core than with a purge gas too. In case you don't know, the reason the call it flux-core, is because the wire is coated with a flux. The flux shields the weld puddle protecting it from the atmosphere. The same thing goes for stick rod too. They make different flux coating for stick rod. The flux shields the arc in different ways (depending on the flux composition). The flux properties also governs what welding positions that rod will work in (vertical, horizonal, overhead, down-hill and up-hill). TIG supposedly is the cat's meow, but expensive and more difficult to do? What do you think as far as ease of use and quality of welds for a novice welder? Actually MIG has the least learning curve, then TIG, with stick being the most difficult to master. Of course anyone can weld, but weld integrity, quality and appearance takes much'o pratice. So to answer your question, MIG (gas purged) will give the best results in the quickest time frame. Plus you can weld just about anything with a MIG (gas purged) welder, including stainless or aluminum. With a few pointers and understanding what your doing, you can put on some nice looking, sound welds pretty quick. Gauges and hose runs $100 - 200. I don't have pricing on a bottle. You have the option of leasing or purchasing a bottle. Price will depend on where you live obviously. Gas also varies depending on what mixture you prefer (100% CO2,85% Argon - 15% CO2, 75% Argon - 25% CO2, 90% Argon - 10% CO2, tri-mix, and then there's the physical purity of the welding gas). Prices of the gas vary depending on what mixture you like or need. The higher priced gases and higher purity are more expensive than 100% CO2, but you have the least weld splatter and better looking welds with the more expensive gases. Weld penetration is also dependant on the gases used. The Lincoln V100-S looks like a nice unit, but also requires purchase of an optional TIG torch (it's still electrical, right?), hose, tungsten bits etc. Yes. Never used that puppy specifically, but I think we just purchased one a few months ago (that's why I mentioned it). <grin> There are quite a few different "types" of TIG torches available, depending on what you're trying to do. For example they make a pencil type 60amp torch. On Miller's site the Maxstar units are listed as welding steel and stainless only, no aluminum - however, that may be in stick mode. In TIG mode do you think the Maxstar 140 would weld aluminum also? Nope (sorry if I cornfused you), regardless of brand, you need a high freq AC/DC machine to TIG weld aluminum and it isn't an easy thing to do/learn. Those machines start around $1,200 on up. So it's hard to say what to buy with the budget you posted and what you said you wanted to weld. You can pick up a new light duty AC/DC stick machine for about $200 to $300 but you can only weld stick rod. Depending on "that" machine, you can weld stainless, but it won't be easy. <grin> You "will not like to weld aluminum with stick rod! You can get into a new TIG/Stick welder (not high-freq) with everything (note the everything) you need for probably under a $1,000. You can get into a new AC/DC TIG/Stick welder that is high-freq with everything note the everything) you need for about $1,700. BTW, AC is used only for aluminum or magnesium (I'm talking TIG now) and DC (neg. polarity) is used for TIG welding all other materials. Or a MIG machine (not a flux-core, you don't want it) with everything (note the everything) you need for around $1,000. It will be the shortest learning curve and do just about everything you requested. Wow, finally something I know a little about, -JW:>) |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, February 18, 2002 - 11:56 pm: |
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Henrik, Hobart makes a decent mig for around $500. It comes with the guage and regulator. 4 step voltage and continuiously variable wire speed. I did some test welds with one, it worked fine. It's a 240V machine but i think they have the same model in a 120. Just a shorter duty cycle. I'll see if I still have the lit on it. I just checked, it was the Handler 135 and Handler 175. I also had info on a Lincoln unit. Was about in the same price range. Voltage was continously variable. Other wise about the same specs. The Lincoln felt a bit better built than the Hobart. The gun appeared to be a bit heavier duty . I was looking to get one for use in a auto restore. I have a 52 Chev 210 sedan I need to weld in the quarter panels and a section of the drivers floor. Seems like a good excuse to pick up a mig. Just checked the Lincoln model. It was the SP-175 Plus. I think that's one I will wind up with. Also, you may want to keep in mind what consumables are available in your immediate area. I can get tips, feed rollers, etc for the Hobart easier than the Lincoln but I still like the Lincoln! Brad |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 12:19 am: |
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Oops, When I said everything I mean; a couple of pair of welding gloves, welding hood (you can spend up to $300.00 on one of those puppies and the one you usually get with a welding setup is worthless), welding jacket or welding sleeves, extra clear lens, good pair of safety glasses, bottle of gas (rent or lease), a spool of aluminum wire (if we're talking about a wire machine), stainless steel wire brush for S.S., wire brush for mild steel, wire brush for aluminum, a couple of cans of weld splatter to keep your nossle from cloging, pair of side cutters (if you're getting a wire machine), a spare liner, and a few tips, shield caps, some material to pratice on, and probably a small 4 1/2" grider, a few 1/8" grinding wheels, a face shield and some welder flash for your eyes (big-grin). Besides the above, don't forget those optional puppies really add up quickly that they don't give you with a new machine, like a quality regulator, utility cart, aluminum kit and so forth. Oh, then if you're going to weld aluminum, you'll need specific tools just for that process. Meaning, anything you use on mild steel shouldn't be used on aluminum (brush, grinding wheels etc). One of keys to welding aluminum is it must be super clean and pre-heated. Since you have to pre-heat aluminum, you'll need a oxy/acet rig too, some temp stick and a whole lot'a scrap to practice on. In case you missed my posting in the General Topics the other day Check this out. I'm working on photographing a few welding process, starting with TIG. Cheers, -JW:>) |
Peter
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 01:32 am: |
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Jim, Have you ever tried on those Henrobs? It's looking quite interesting for the price. PPiA |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 05:40 am: |
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Henrik: Further to what Jim said... Welding Aluminum is a real BITCH. A decent aluminum structural weld requires a controlled environment and detailed expertise specific to aluminum welding. Making the scenario even more unattractive is that welding on any heat treated aluminum alloy instantly kills it's strength in the area of the weld. |
Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 12:42 pm: |
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Jim: I did see your pictures and I guess that's what got me started. You certainly do know your welding You've given me a lot of info the adds seem to forget to mention ... Brad: thanks for the input on the Hobart/Lincoln units. Nice to know they're both quality units. I guess from the input here, that welding aluminum is out for now. I really just wanted to repair a snapped rear-set for the SV - and since that could happen again ... you get the picture. I would like to be able to weld stainless though, which requires gas for both TIG and MIG machines to work. How small can you get the gas bottles? I guess to narrow it down I'll have to make a "Pro/Con" list and see what works out best. TIG/stick gets points for portability. However starting out with stick will limit the capabilities and make TIG and gas a necessity. Even with gas TIG is more tricky and requires a high end ($$) unit to weld aluminum. MIG/wire feed will make prettier welds easier even without gas, but not be as great as TIG even after upgrade with gas. MIG w/ gas however will cover the broadest spectrum of welding. Loosing a bit on the portability. Thanks again all for your input. I'll keep you posted. Henrik |
Aaron
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 06:43 pm: |
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Henrik: I have a Hobart Handler 175. Works great, came with the regulator and all, too, I just had to buy a tank of argon and a tank of mix. I'll be dammed if I can weld aluminum with it, though. Even when I can get the aluminum wire to feed properly (and that's a trick), it just wants to torch through everything and make a mess. |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 07:57 pm: |
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Brad wrote: Just checked the Lincoln model. It was the SP-175 Plus. I think that's one I will wind up with. Brad, If "I" were to choose between the Hobart 135 or 175 and the Lincoln SP-175 Plus specifically, I'd go with the SP-175 Plus in a heart beat. Regardless what anyone ends up with, you need a machine with continuous voltage adjustment! NOT one that only allows you to step the voltage in 20 (or so) amp. increments, without fine tuning it. If you're going to be welding thin materials, you must have the arc control. S'later, -JW:>) Cheers, -JW:>) |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 08:54 pm: |
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Henrik asked: How small can you get the gas bottles? Small enough that you can carry it easily. Keep in mind though, Argon is deadly (an oxygen starver) and heavier than air. I'm not sure where you live, so there might be regulations storing it (appartment etc.) ... never know nowadays. S'later, -JW:>) |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 09:48 pm: |
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Henrik: What the hell is a bung anyway? Are you talking about the thread-o-let that gets welded on the exhaust for the O2 sensor? Thanks, -JW:>) |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 10:51 pm: |
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Peter asked: Have you ever tried on those Henrobs? It's looking quite interesting for the price. Hi Pete, Interesting (meaning its' a gun and probably some super fine tips), but it looks like nothing more than GAS welding to me. You feather the cone just like gas welding with a oxygen/acetylene setup, match the proper rod/flux combination with the material you're welding and go for it. If you want to cut something, you introduce oxygen into the oxygen jet in the tip. Anywho, I sure wouldn't buy one unless I could borrow it for a while to actually put it through its' paces. All the images on the homepage were pretty poor, no close-ups etc.. It's pretty hard to tell how anything actually worked out from the data he supplied. I sure did find the bodywork welding hard to believe (meaning less distortion than stitch welding with MIG). I've TIG welded quite a few dragster frames, roll cages, go-carts, bicycles with 4130 Chrome-Moly. The filler rod I've used were ER80S-D2 (approximate strength of 4130), ER70S-2 and ER70S-6 (alternative but weld strength a little less). The only reason I'm mentioning this, is because on Henrobs site he "references" welding Chrome-Molly with one of these filler rods ...... so he's got the filler rod correct (meaning he did his homework). <grin> Cheers, -JW:>) |
Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 - 11:43 pm: |
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Jim: yep, the "bung" is the thread-a-ma-jig that I'm hoping to weld to my header. That's what they call it at the different stores - honest Keep in mind though, Argon is deadly (an oxygen starver) Great - thanks for shooting my plans down, now that I finally thought I was getting somewhere Yeah, good point though, whatever I get will need to be stored in the apartment, and I'm sure there are rules and regulations. It's NYC after all... Henrik |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2002 - 05:36 pm: |
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anyone: I am looking for a way to attatch a video cam to my x1. I am looking at the outside of the left fork or someplace close to the ground where I can get some cool shots. any ideas? dont want to muck up a $700 cam with duck tape. steve |
Rempss
| Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2002 - 10:58 pm: |
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How does that old joke go "what's the last thing a Bueller says before he dies - how do I attach a video camera to..." - "hey watch this" ? Something like that. On my tripod the center shaft where the camera mounts is an aluminum tube that can be pulled out complete with camera mount. You can find electrical pipe clamps close to the same size as the tripod tube (which would need to be cut down in length) and others close to the same size as the fork tube. The clamps are "U" shaped with ears on both sides to bolt to flat surfaces. Clamp around both tubes top and bottom bolt center ears together. Browse your local Home Depot or electrical wholesale house you'll see what I am talking about. Use a bunch of rubber tape to buffer the vibration, show me the video. I am in the flat straight lands, can see 400 miles on a clear day. Your tape will probably be worthwhile. Jeff |
Ocbueller
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2002 - 04:45 pm: |
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Roadrunr, Try to find a way to mount it to the top of the gas tank. It will provide a view of the guages as well as the road ahead. I have seen some successful setups with aluminum plate velcro and rubber padding. You could also use the tripod mount idea and find a suitable clamp to mount to the handlebars. A company called GiantC also had one in their catalog. I would be happy to critique your video free of charge. SteveH |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2002 - 07:13 pm: |
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by george I think I've got it! pics after the weekend if it works. thanks guys!!!!! |
Rdrage
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2002 - 07:20 pm: |
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Roadrunr, Try www.saeng.com |
Loki
| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 05:37 am: |
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RR, I havbe tried the LP cam mount on my M-Deuce. My Sony really did not like the vibes. A good bump would shut it down. The final mounting takes some time to set-up. I am going with a "Helmet-Cam" later on this year. Mount it anywhere and plug it into a pre-digital camcorder. That would be one that has RCA type a/v inputs on it. The bad part....spending another $300.00 on top of the camera cost. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2002 - 06:09 pm: |
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Since we got the guards on our gutters, I needed to find a use for this high$ tool. I pulled the old Court trick and sat down next to Stripe'r ansd meditated. All of a sudden the cosmic wave melded together and the light came on It works great keeping that nasty tranny fluid off the polished slip-on. Neil S. |
Court
| Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2002 - 09:39 pm: |
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That one even amazes me. I'm sure John Muir would consider it PERFECT! Good work, Court |
X1glider
| Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 06:18 pm: |
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I have a parallelogram type jack. What's the best way to use it on an X1? Or should I invest in a different type? |
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