| Author | Message | ||
     Bud_man |
Hey, This, hopefully, is a very simple fix ... I have oil leaking through the front, left side, head bolt. It leaks enough to weep out/blow onto my left leg and onto the spark plug wire and rest of the engine over a 60 + mile ride. I initally tightened the bolt -- but it still leaked. So I put some gasket sealer on the bolt and put it back in, tightened it to about 100 ft/lb, thought that should work. Nope, till leaks out ... What should I do? How tight is it to be tightened down? I figure it should be a simple solution ... Thanks. - Bud | ||
| Rick_a |
You may have a blown head gasket. Even the aftermarket composite gaskets only require 40 ft-lbs. H-D/Buells have their own unique head tightening procedure that only requires a torque wrench for initial torquing. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bud, Are you sure it's the head bolt and not the rocker box? Left front RB leak was common on the old style paper gaskets. | ||
| Bud_man |
Bluzm2 Yeah, it's coming through the bolt -- which surprised me. The gasket sealant I put on the bolt even showed up on my boot ... Maybe I should get a new bolt? What would I put on it to keep oil from working it's way out? Any thoughts would be great ... Thanks. - Bud | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bud, Sounds like you have a bigger problem. The head bolts are for clamping pressure only. The bolt holes/stud shafts do not normally carry oil. The oil is a different passage through the cylinder and into the head. Sounds like you may have a blown head gasket. Only way to fix it is a teardown and replacement. Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing, you are refering to one of the bolts right next to the spark plug right? Can you post a picture? Brad (Message edited by bluzm2 on August 20, 2005) | ||
| Rick_a |
If it is a blown head gasket it should be fixed right away. Combustion pressure+heat is enough to cut away at the cylinder and head over time. | ||
| Bud_man |
I think I have the wrong name for this bolt -- it is NOT next to the spark plug. This is the bolt that oil is coming through ... should have taken a picture first (especially if I was calling it by the wrong name ...) Thanks for the input! - Bud | ||
| Bud_man |
 Here's the picture -- arrow at "the bolt" that is leaking oil ... Thanks for any help here ... - Bud | ||
| Reepicheep |
Are you *sure* it's not the rocker box? Those things can leak in such a way that it looks like oil is coming from everwhere *but* there. | ||
| Dave |
Bud, That's your engine mount (isolator mount). I agree that it is more than likely rocker covers. Maybe spray it down (cold) with simple green and clean it up real nice with a paint brush. Get up behind that bolt and on the rocker cover real well. Then bring it up to temp/ maybe a short ride around the block and check for the culprit. That isloator bolt should be 73-78 ft/lbs with loktite. Overtighten and there could be some problems with stuff cracking/breaking DAve (Message edited by dave on August 21, 2005) | ||
| Bigdaddy |
90% says rocker box is bad. Pretty easy fix. | ||
| Shotgun |
Just happen to have a leftover rocker box gasket. Gimmee an address and I'll mail it to you. | ||
| Bud_man |
Wow, thanks for all the help! I thought I had isolated the leak to that bolt (isolator mount bolt), but looks like I was fooled ... Anyway, I'll redo the isolator bolt (73-78 ft/lbs with loktite). Then I'll replace the rocker box gasket (Shotgun, you are too kind! I'll send you my address!). How tight do I redo the bolts? And I asume use loktite on them. Thanks for all the help ... I wish I was more of a mechanic ... but you gotta start somewhere! (smile) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bud, The left front RB leak is very common. Like stated above, an easy fix. First thing you must do is pick up a service manual. This is the single most important investment you can make for your Buell. In the KV, there is a service bulitin with specific instructions for replacing the isolator bolts. Follow it closely. When you pull the RB cover, just pat the rubber gaskets to clean them. If you pull then through a rag like a noodle, they strach a bit and are tough to get back in place. If that happens, put them in the freezer for a few minutes, then install as usual. You will need a shortened allen wrench to get the left front bolts out. There is two of them. One on top and one inside. You'll need the shortened wrench for both. The 5/16 bolts are torqued at 15-18 ft lbs The 1/4" bolts are 10-13 ft lbs. Good luck! Brad | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Budman.....I had the same problem with my S3T a few years back. I would have sworn up & down that the oil was coming from that bolt. Nope...rocker box leak. If I'm not mistaken, the isolator bolts don't go into an area that has oil. I've seen pictures were the bolt has broken completely free of the case and not leaked. While you're in there doing the front, you might was well do the rear. And make sure to be VERY careful torquing on the inside. Don't ask me how long to took to back out a broken bolt  | ||
| Buellzebub |
Note: the front isolator mounting bolts should not be reused! (Message edited by buellzebub on September 28, 2005) | ||
| Bomber |
good way to trace a leak -- get some cheap, generic athelete's foot spray -- it leaves a white powder after the propellant dries -- makes tracing leaks a breeze (thanks to Grounder for the tip, btw) | ||
| Buellistic |
Buellzebub: IF YOU OVER STRESSED(TORQUE) NEW ONES THE SAME THING WILL HAPPEN TO USED ONES THAT ARE REUSED and over STRESSED(TORQUE) !!! "ONE OF THE MOST DANGEROUS THINGS IN THE WORLD IS A HARLEY-DAVIDSON TECHNICIAN WORKING ON A BUELL !!!" In BUELLing LaFayette |
