| Author | Message | ||
     Bluzm2 |
Oz, If you are getting vibration when you hit the front binder, you probably have the start of a warped rotor. Just replace it, it's only about $110.00 or so. Rotor and carrier are sold as a single piece. Mine started out as a slight vibration and progressed to a very annoying semi dangerous pulsing. Brad | ||
| Djkaplan |
What would concern me more about the drilled caliper carrier isn't whether the holes have compromised it's integrity to failure, but how much elastic deflection the holes may have introduced to the component. The deflection over time could result in the aluminum being work hardened and more likely to fracture. "Speed holes" look trick, but I make a point of never drilling brake hardware that is subject to bending moments. I learned this the hard way on a brake arm for a dirtbike I raced in the late 70's. You may not be able to actually feel any increased deflection (if there is any) because of the suspension action. I hope we are all just being a bit paranoid. It does look cool. | ||
| Bomber |
just cuz yer paranoid don't mean they ain't out to getcha! that ol debbil physics has risen up and bitten me in the butt more oftenn than I care to remember | ||
| Reepicheep |
Argh. Problems with the front wheel. I pulled the wheel to get a new tire installed. Came off fine, no problem. Took it to the local Heavily Harley and Barely Buell dealer, and they happened to have the tire in stock, and put it on while I waited. Great! But not so great. Go to put it back together and I spend half an hour or so fretting over the diagram. Anyone else notice that both the 2000 M2 Cyclone service manual and parts manual have the large spacer shown on the wrong side of the wheel? Ok. Easy fix once I convinced myself that they were the problem. Put together, take for ride... What the heck? Lots of lever travel. Never did that before. Examining rotor and carrier shows about 1/4 inch or bending on the whole assembly. Looks like it got eaten by a harley tire machine  How annoying. At least its cold this week... | ||
| Stormbringer |
Has anyone else experienced this (and what did you do about it)? After a light application of the front brake on my S3T, the brake pads have stayed in contact with the disk. Both times it simply felt like the engine siezing so pulled clutch in, revs fell to idle happily, bike slowed considerably (as you might expect). Pulled over, rocked the bike back and forth, and lo... the brake released and all was well again. It's only happened twice in two years but it's not ideal. Any thoughts? | ||
| Peter |
Stormbringer, Try here. PPiA | ||
| Stormbringer |
Peter, Thanks for the pointer. The more I think about it, the more I suspect my brake binding problems may have been related to travelling on wet roads(including wet dirt roads!) not long before. I live up a dirt road :-( so that might continue to cause a few hassles. In the meantime it might be interesting to have a look and see just how cruddy those pistons really are. It's early summer here (New Zealand - land of the long winding road with hardly any traffic!) and I don't need a repeat occurrance. Cheers, JP | ||
| Peter |
In my post I said I would try ceramic pads on my next track day which I have done. The brake problem did not repeat itself when I used them. No idea if it's linked though. PPiA | ||
| Jmartz |
I put a new rotor and pads on the rear of my S1. When braking at slow speeds I'm getting a loud sqeak. Anybody know how to eliminate this annoying sound? | ||
| Buelliedan |
Jmartz, Stop using your rear brake at low speeds?? haha. I'm in one of those moods today, sorry  | ||
| Djkaplan |
Jmartz, Try using one of the many products used in the automobile industry to address this situation. Applying "brake squeal" to the backs of the pads creates a dampening layer that keeps the assembly from resonating. Just a thin layer is all that's needed (follow the directions). It's the resonant vibration that actually creates the annoying noises. Try it and give us an update. | ||
| Jmartz |
Dj: I will post when I try a correction. Thanks Jose | ||
| Sparky |
Stormbringer, I had the front brake drag once on my 98 S3 too. I'm guessing that possibly cold/wet and a week later hot/dry conditions congealed grime buildup on the moveable parts of the caliper to cause the pistons to not retract. I was able to twist the caliper thus forcing the pistons back in and continue on my way. Your conditions seem similar to mine. Since you ride in dusty conditions fairly often I would suggest increased vigilance on keeping the front caliper clean. For me that means I have to actually wash the whole bike occasionally and not just the purty parts. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Rocketman |
Here's the latest DYMAG in CARBON FIBRE  Rocket in England | ||
| Peter |
Rocketfella, Make me faint. What do they cost and how much do they weigh? PPiA | ||
| Reepicheep |
HELP! HELP! Can somebody walk out and look at the front of their bike? I have a 2000 Cyclone, and pulled the front wheel to get a new tire. The front axle goes through a large captive spacer (between the bearings inside the hub of the wheel). It also goes through two slip in spacers that hold the hub away from the forks (one on each side). One of these spacers is bigger then the other. The service manual AND the parts manual shows the wider of these two spacers on the rotor side, but unless I am missing something REALLY obvious, there is no way that can be right. It has to be the wider spacer on the non-rotor side. So could somebody walk out to their Buell and check two things: 1) Look between the front wheel hub and the forks and tell me if the bigger spacer is on the rotor side, or on the non-rotor side. 2) Look carefully at the tire as it lines up with the fender. Is it just a little (less then .25 inch or so) closer to the fender on the rotor side, or on the non-rotor side, or does it look even? Thanks in advance. I think it is just a typo in the manuals, but the first go round (tech at either Buell or my Harley dealer has slit the sidewall twice in a row mounting tires, waiting for number three now) I discovered a bent rotor. I am just about positive the dealer bent it installing the tire, but I want to make doubly sure I am not crossing anything up. If I have that spacer screwed up and I am missing something else, it could have been me that bent the rotor. | ||
| Rippin |
Reep, My '01 has the longer one on the left(non disc) side. It seems as though the bearing on that side is closer to the center of the hub. Ryan | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Bill asked: 2) Look carefully at the tire as it lines up with the fender. Is it just a little (less then .25 inch or so) closer to the fender on the rotor side, or on the non-rotor side, or does it look even? Hey, Funny you should bring this up because today I was at a dealership and a customer shopping for a M2 brought your #2 question to my attention. I don't own a M2, so I can't help you factually, but the bikes I looked at today all were not centered, like you'd think they should be. Cheers, -JW:>) | ||
| Djkaplan |
2000 M2 here. Just removed my wheel to get the front fender off (no way around it). 1) The short spacer is on the rotor side. 2) The wheel looks even. I'm glad I didn't look at my shop manual! This is the first bike I've had that had a disc so large, the caliper needed to be removed to get the wheel off. I was able to remove the fender without taking the caliper off but it was tricky. | ||
| Djkaplan |
The wheel looks even. Is the fender not centered? | ||
| Blake |
Reep: Your front wheel should be perfectly centered between the forks. | ||
| Blake |
The fender can move around on it's mounts. Mine was crooked when I bought it. Strange that QC didn't see it. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Hmmm, The fender has to go on before the wheel. It would be difficult to adjust once the wheel is mounted. This situation must be specific to the M2's conventional forks (maybe Blast also). I'm glad this came up before I remount my new painted fender. It is strange that QC didn't notice it. My original fender was inline with the wheel though. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks everybody... I will measure against the forks instead of the fender and see if it is centered, and post if there are any further mysteries. | ||
| Aaron |
Bill, you probably know this, but in case someone out there doesn't, be sure to tighten the axle nut before you tighten the rotor pinch bolts (i.e. don't use the pinch bolts to hold the axle still while tightening the nut). The way it works, the axle on the rotor side presses against the spacer, it's not the fork leg that rests against the spacer. If you clamp the fork leg to the axle with the pinch bolts, and then tighten the axle nut, you'll likely end up pulling the fork leg sideways and tweaking it. If you think you might've done this to your bike, just loosen the pinch bolts, let the rotor side fork leg "find" where it wants to sit on the axle, and retighten the pinch bolts. | ||
| Buellhusker |
Just talked with Buell Customer Dis-Service today. He told me that Buell has never had a problem with the right side bearing in the rear wheel spinning in the wheel. Funny but my 1998 S1WL did at the 10,000 mile service, and this bike has always been serviced by the local Buell Dealer, this includes checking the drive belt tension. I am sure I have read of several others with this problem. The Customer Dis-Service guy was a jerk he told me he did not have the time to explane to me how the warranty/good will program worked, he was too busy. | ||
| Rippin |
He's blown smoke Husker! My '99 M2 went out with less than 10000 and they(Buell(well actually my awesome dealer(Wilwerts HD/Buell)handled it for me) with no problems. They had four different inscidents last year besides mine. I do think though that it matters how tight the drive belt is though. I keep mine to the loose side of spec just because of that and have had 0 problems since then. Any futher problems let us know. Thanks Ryan | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Buellhusker wrote: Just talked with Buell Customer Dis-Service today. He told me that Buell has never had a problem with the right side bearing in the rear wheel spinning in the wheel. Seasons Greetings, Yea, right! He's totally full-of-shit or is completely new in the Buell customer service department. Back in 98, my local dealer had my bike nearly 5 months trying to reslove this exact problem, from a warranty perspective. BTW, it's pretty typical for the steering head bearing to take-a-shit within the first 10,000 miles or so too. If you want, call the idiot back and ask him to look up my name in the database; James Witt Phoenix, Arizona via Hacienda H-D VIN # 4MZFS11J7w3100309 He'll find many others with the same problem at the above stealership. From my personal experience it's pretty typical for Buell stealerships to be in denial. As I said above, I dealt with the stealership and customer service for nearly 5 months trying to resolve this delima. Not until I contacted a lawyer, in the fifth month of this ordeal, did it get their attention and my bike out of the stealership. BTW, I never got a call from anyone (meaning the stealership or customer service) saying we're sorry (or whatever) it took so long. Cool, great PR work Buell. The original whiner®, -JW:>) | ||
| Cyclonemick |
I have a 00m2 and was wondering if anyone could tell me if if i was able to instal 207's instead of the stock 205's or would the rear fender get in the way. | ||
| Cyclonemick |
I have a 002m2 and was wondering if i could install 207's indtead of the stock 205's or would the rear fender get in the way? |
