| Author | Message | ||
     Loki |
BB, Cool a good endorsemnet of the Sportec M1 tires. They are first choice in my replacents. Everything I have read on them pretty much sum up your experiences so far. btw: How do you like the Banke set-up? Second thing on the after taxes procuremnet list for the M-Deuce. Loki | ||
| Bigblock |
Loki, The only prob w/ the Banke was the rear brake lever flexed so bad the brake wouldn't work, apparently I had the old style, he sent me the new rearset/brake mount promptly and free, and I made a reinforcment bracket just to be sure. I had this discussion with PPIA a few months ago, I think there's some pics somewhere in the archives of my set up.Now, I love my rearsets. I like the way they look, and I love the performance enhancement and the new riding position, I won't go back! A word of warning, though, If you have a 99 or later M2, you'll need the Banke shifter for the rearsets, or you'll have to trim your bodywork like I did. I only did it because someone backed into my bike when it was parked, scratching up the rear panel, so I felt free to hack away. I actually like the look of the rear panel trimmed much better than stock, so I still haven't replaced it with the new one that the culprit bought! If you can deal with getting a shifter, and IMHO making a bracket(probably not necessary) IMHO you will LOVE the rearsets! Ray | ||
| Bigblock |
Loki, I did a quick check, all I could find was 2 pics of Blake's 97 M2 w/ rearset and shifter ala Banke, it's in the ergonomics, seats footpegs grips archive "through aug 14,2001" I don't know where the pics of my 2000 showing the trimmed body and bracket I made are. Ray | ||
| Loki |
Ray, Just our soliciting another opine, I know "the" Blake likes his.... As for me, already have the Banke shifter and brake arm. Ain't now way in a snow balls chance of ever going back to the stock stuff. I will just need to chat with Banke about my needs. Putting a X1 chin on the Deuce so I kinda need a hybrid set-up to accomadate this. Loki | ||
| Loki |
Ray, Just out soliciting another opine, I know "the" Blake likes his.... As for me, already have the Banke shifter and brake arm. Ain't now way in a snow balls chance of ever going back to the stock stuff. I will just need to chat with Banke about my needs. Putting a X1 chin on the Deuce so I kinda need a hybrid set-up to accomadate this. Loki | ||
| Rapid49 |
My 98 S1 has very little rear brake. I flushed the old fuid , added new dot 5 and bled .The pads have plenty of meat left. Any help apreciated. | ||
| Blake |
Your first statement is true. The rear brake is small and relatively weak. However, you should with much effort be able to lock up your rear tire. If not, try a good cleaning with some aerosol Brake Cleaner. That always seems to rejuvinate my rear brake. Use the front brake more, it has 90%+ of your stopping power, 100% if the rear wheel lifts.  | ||
| Sem1 |
Rear brake? Is there a rear brake somewhere on my S1W as well? Oh yes, I remember now; isn't that the pedal on the right that is sometimes used to keep the bike still if you have to reach for something with your right hand while you are stopped. It is really tedious to use because then you have to put your left foot down and tilt the bike to the left instead of right. Sometimes I just reach for the real brake (or "front" brake, as opposed to this "rear" brake) with my left hand instead so that I don't have to put down the left foot and lift up the right one. Sorry, couldn't resist.  Semi | ||
| Rapid49 |
I know what you mean about the front being most of my stoping power .I rarely use the back brake much but there are times when it comes in handy. I can lock the wheel with much effort but it seems to me less effort should be needed. Is this normal? Evan | ||
| Tripper |
Normal. Keeps rookies from lo-siding. I like that feature myself. | ||
| Ptown |
Evan You could take a look at the pedal where it goes over the saft rotating. It may be dried out and needs some grease to smooth the leverage out. This I have found a lot of times espcially if you use a lot of degreasing fluids in that area while washing the bike, this tends to remove the lubrication there. Eugene | ||
| Jray |
They way I understand the original intent of Buell's design for the rear brake is that it's not supposed to put a lot of stopping power into the rear tire. They do this by limiting the amount is psi created in the brake fluid. So you have a couple of quick fixes on the market that I know of. Install different linkage that will give you more leverage or change the master cylinder plunger to smaller diameter to get more psi in the fluid (see http://www.americansportbike.com/ pg 29 of catalog) JRay | ||
| Blake |
Rapid: Riding per normal as a Buell rookie, I toasted the rear brake pads in just my first 5000 miles on my Cyclone. This was by NO means a case of overuse of the rear brakes; it was an 80/20 maybe 70/30 front/rear type of use. I now use the rear at maybe a 95/5 front/rear or even 100/0. I now get at least 15,000 miles out of my rear brake pads. I guess what I'm saying is that if you use the rear brake often and semi agressively, you will be replacing brake pads very frequently. | ||
| Rapid49 |
I uderstand the logic of not wanting too much rear brake, but I would still like a little more than I have now. I checked the pedal for binding and freedom of movement, that was ok. My bike came with the banks pedal, is the levarage the same? I checked out the catalog at americansportbike.com and was thinking about the kevlar pads and the stainless brake line. Maybe this would give me the increase I'm looking for without giving me too much. I do understand why we don't want too much. Any feedback on the lines and or pads would be apreciated.Evan | ||
| Blake |
The original Banke setup did degrade rear brake pedal leverage. Banke supposedly has a new version that he supposedly, I am told, will provide free of charge to ownes of the first version. I have the original on my M2 and can confirm that it is much weaker in effect than the stock setup. Still okay for me though, course I'm over 500 LB, so a little puch on the pedal is no big deal. If I were 160 LB, I would probably want more rear brake. Steel brake lines won't improve efficiency of effort just responsiveness (helps improve mushy brakes) and on the rear brake with its extremely short brake line, you are not likely to feel ANY difference anyway. A dual piston caliper and/or a larger disk will make a significant improvement to the efficiency of the rear brake. Check out our sponsors, they should have aftermarket systems that will satisfy your right foot. | ||
| Dice |
Question. Has anyone installed a Goodridge stainless steel front brake line on a S1? I just received one and noticed that it only had one set of crush washers and a single banjo bolt in it. Am I missing some parts? It seems that I would need to replace both sets of banjo bolts and all crush washers to install this thing properly. Anybody else been through this? | ||
| Jerome |
Just installed a new set of Metzeler Sportec M1 tyres on my M2. I can only concure with Bigblock's comments posted before about these new tyres : they are awesome ! Very sticky, very neutral, very comfortable, very fast in flip-flaps. Only negative comment : the 170/60-17 rear tyre is thinner than 170 and the rear view of the bike is less impressive... I measured it and it shows a 165mm width when mounted on my PM 5.5 wheel. By comparison, my previous Dunlop D207 had a width of 175mm (same commercial size : 170/60-17). I would recommend people interested in these new tyres to consider the 180/55-17 size, if it's proportional, it should have the same width as a standard 170/60-17 D207. | ||
| Johnnybravo |
hey guys is there a way to get my caliper off my front rotor without tearing it in half or removing it from the line? Do i have to take off the rotor ? | ||
| Blake |
Remove the pads, compress the pistons and ease it out. You might want to tape your rim to avoid scratching it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Johnnybravo... Blake is right, it will work, and if you care about small scratches, you ought to tape it. I just did this a month ago, and it looked impossible, until I got it in just the right position. It will kinda rotate out without any pressure, you dont have to pull on the rotor or wedge anything. | ||
| Johnnybravo |
thanks guys worked like a charm, do you guys know if a 180 tire will fit instead of the 170? i wanna male sure before i have a bubble rear (insert joke here) | ||
| Reepicheep |
My 2000 M2 appears to have come stock from the factory with a 180 rear. It fits fine, but there is not much clearance between the tire and the hugger fender. The tire met it's death when it picked up a nail, and the nail ripped a 1/4 inch gouge in the rear hugger while being torn out of the tire. No idea if the extra clearance of the 170 would have left the nail in the tire or not, the nail was long gone by the time I checked it. It looks nice and works fine, though I put a 170 back on it after it blew. | ||
| Racinswifty |
I got a 190/50/17 rear tire on my P/M wheel, fits nice! No problem with the fender clearance but it is within 1/8th from the belt. I just put 700 miles on it with no problems,I just now rolled the lips on the tire from sunday ride with my buddies. Glad my bank sensor didn't go off! | ||
| Rocketman |
CARBON FIBER WHEELS : Jose, seeing as you asked here's some more info on the wheel weights. You'll need to bear in mind that my wheels are early production versions and the data is circa 1996. Dymag weights are 'typical' for a 17 inch rim....... Dymag 3 spoke carbon wheels........... Carbon Rim (front) 1.4 kg typical hub assembly, magnesium carriers, bearings and int\ext spacers .90 kg Carbon Rim (rear) 2.2 kg typical hub assembly, magnesium carriers, bearings and int\ext spacers 1.15 kg Blackstone Tek quote for their current carbon 5 spoke wheels.......... Street version : 2.1 - 2.2 kg depending on motorcycle (including alloy hub and steel fittings with bearings) Racing version : 1.9 - 2.1 kg depending on motorcycle (including magnesium hub, titanium fittings with bearings) Rocket in England | ||
| Blake |
Rocket: Blackstone #'s are for the rear wheel? | ||
| Jmartz |
Rocket: Very impressive indeed! and at a lower price to boot... | ||
| Rocketman |
Blake : I copied it word for word out of the sales brochure. You tell me ? I was quoted approximately £2000 for a new pair of 5 spokes. I tell ya, they looked bloody excellent and you do notice the one piece design . Absolute perfection. Rocket in England | ||
| Mistaandypants |
I'm looking at a 2002 m2 low to trade my blast in on this weekend. The dealer is offering a little deal on some PM Wheels. I want to know whether there are any advantages to PM wheels other than looks. I know the regular wheels are lighter, but does it really matter. Should I do it? I need to get back with him in the next couple of days. Any thoughts about this are apprecciated. Thanks, | ||
| Johnnybravo |
the only disadvantage other than weight would be cleaning, those rims are a bitch to keep cleen. | ||
| Kevinhern |
I have a '02 M2 with PM wheels. Will a 180 fit on the rear with the stock rear finder? Kevin |
