| Author | Message | ||
     Elyaswolffxb9s |
SO I spend some time trying to find Mobil 1 75-90 but to no avail. I have easy access to Redline 75-90, has anyone used that in the primary? Or did a problem with the clutch present itself? I have 15-50 in the primary right now. (and I have had a really good experience putting it in my car) And does anyone know anything about the replacement for Mobil 1 15-50? It is crap? with the high detergency I worry, heck did they add any friction modifiers or anything? | ||
| Ingemar |
I use redline ful synth 15w20 in the engine, light shockproof 75w90 in the tranny. The first time I used the regular 75w90 in the tranny, with the last service I switched to the light shockproof. The man who sells it (indy) has been servicing Buells for a long time. He admits the problems with the heavy, but said he has never seen the problem with the light. it suffers from the same problem as the heavy as I understand it, but much less so by the time it becomes a problem the clutch plates need to be replaced anyway. So do NOT use the heavy shock proof in the tranny. use regular or light shockproof. Wouldn't know about Mobil, I can't find it over here. | ||
| Brucelee |
I assume you mean Redline 15-50 on that engine oil. | ||
| Ejiii |
I use Redline 20w-50 in both the engine and the trans with no problems. Clutch is fine and trans shifts better than ever. I was going to use the Redline 70w-90 but when I saw HD's recommendation on synthetic 20w-50 for engines and transmissions I decided I would make it easy and use one oil. | ||
| Ingemar |
I meant 20w50. I don't know what I was thinking. I did have a terrible headache this afternoon... | ||
| Buellman39 |
 You didn't have to many of these last night did you? | ||
| Tomzweifel |
I'm so pissed. I switched to Mobil1 V-Twin 20-50 after break-in. A mom & pop parts store in town carried the stuff and they said people came from all over the state to get it. Sure enough, they sold out to Autozone, and now I can't find it anywhere. If you've ever wondered what it's like talking to a rock, stroll in to your local Autozone and ask the kid behind the counter for the stuff and listen to the crickets chirp as he wonders if that stuff would be any good in his V-TEC. | ||
| Dragonbuell12r |
Don't waste your money on the Mobil 1 v-twin stuff. Just get the 15w50 for the tank and the primary and ride happy. Walmart has both at well below the Pep Boys/Auto Zone qrt price. | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
I hope to have pictures soon of what synthetic automobile oil can ( and in this case , DID ) do to an air cooled V-twin. I would not use it, although I know many here say it's okay. I would use dino Diesel rated or an specifically engineered synthetic, ie. Mobil V-twin. the bike I referred to is a HD sporty that had to have he case replaced. Symptoms: lot's of internal noise, then leak's. Findings: Bearing's flat spotted, bearing case spun, wore case and caused leak. This was relayed to me from a mechanic friend. I said people on the web strongly disagree, and he said he will show me the case and bearings. I should see him this Monday. At any rate, I would stay away from automotive ( water cooled gas engine ) rated synthetic oils. JMHO (Message edited by deerhunter17 on April 15, 2005) | ||
| Brucelee |
I have never seen any credible test or evidence to support this view. Last year, MC mag did a fairly lengthy two part article which concluded that this issue of quality auto oils are bad for MCs, as a total myth. Might be worthy finding that article. Also, if you have access to the "Motor Oil Bible" the same conclusion is reached. "I hope to have pictures soon of what synthetic automobile oil can ( and in this case , DID ) do to an air cooled V-twin. I would not use it, although I know many here say it's okay. I would use dino Diesel rated or an specifically engineered synthetic, ie. Mobil V-twin. the bike I referred to is a HD sporty that had to have he case replaced. Symptoms: lot's of internal noise, then leak's. Findings: Bearing's flat spotted, bearing case spun, wore case and caused leak. This was relayed to me from a mechanic friend. I said people on the web strongly disagree, and he said he will show me the case and bearings. I should see him this Monday. At any rate, I would stay away from automotive ( water cooled gas engine ) rated synthetic oils. JMHO " | ||
| Ejiii |
I have worked for an OEM for over 20 years now. Most of that time has been spent in engineering. If an OEM, in this case HD, certifies and recommends an oil for use in all engines and transmissions, in this case synthetic 20w-50 then believe me, it's OK. OEM's are usually very conservative in recommending anything. HD designed it, built it, is paying the warranty costs on it and most importantly they are putting their reputation behind it. Synthetic oil that meets all of HD's SAE/API certification requirements is more than just fine. | ||
| Bud |
i did use reline ( heavy duty schockproof,there red tomatojuice stuf ) clutch problems after 10k , goo build up in the diafram cleaned it, switched to mobil 1 no problems what so ever, good oil, light shockproof came out (the blue-green stuff ) after 10ooo the same clutch problems, cleaned ti again, and promiced my self never to use it again ! maybe it's just me, dragracing and stuff on one hand the dirt binding property is a good thing, just my o,o2 | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Bud, which clutch are you running? Stock or aftermarket? I will stick with my M1 V-twin which I have no issues finding, and my M1 75w90 for the primary, which again I have no issues finding. In a pinch engine wise, I will go with a good deisel rated oil. | ||
| Bud |
wycked, the stock clutch talked to the shopguy about it, he uses redline light schockproof for every sportster/buell primairy, he did use the heavy schockproof but changed to the light stuf becouse off clutch binding problems. he has never seen a binding clutch with light schockproof, i have to say it's not really a binding problem, it's more a goo build up between the diafram spring and the pressureplate in a way that clutch don't fully comes free. like i said maybe it's just me  or the heavy dragracing ( slipping ) use off the clutch but on the other hand all off that clutch debrie had no chance to reach the fine inner workings off the gearbox  becouse off the schockproof oil | ||
| Ejiii |
Has anyone called Redline to speak with one of the chemists to see what they recommend? | ||
| Ingemar |
Bud, where did you get Mobil 1??? I searched hi and lo and even called a few oil distributors to ask about it. In shops I get a glassy look when I ask about Mobil 1 .... I think I'm gonna flush that tranny soon and get rid of that light shockproof then ... | ||
| Ingemar |
btw, I thought you only had problems with the heavy, not the light ... I didn't know or I wouldn't have gotten that stuff in the first place .... Ejiii, I'm pretty sure HD did not design, develop or produced that oil. Sure that oil is not bad, but you should also take into account the revenue aspect of that recommendation. Because they recommend it, doesn't mean it's the best thing for your bike. But again, I agree with you it is certainly more than good enough for the bike. But in the end, I honestly don't believe any of the regular brands dinos or synths will do harm in your engine, unless it's just plain wrong SAE rating, or has dubious Then why do I pay 15 bucks for a quart? Dunno, really. Maybe better safe then sorry? I do want the best for the bike and revising an engine is still gonna be more expensive than the few bucks I pay more for some oil. (Message edited by ingemar on April 16, 2005) | ||
| Bud |
to all, i didn't post my experiance to scare any body and in my case the oil was 7ooo km in the tranny and did dragrace ( read heavy clutch ware ) with it, the buildup off goo is a is long know fact with the schockproofoil (the oil is mend to do that ) ingemar, Mobil 1 don't bother had to pull a arm and a leg to get it, just use the HD stuf (syth 3 )or sporttrans regards,B | ||
| Brucelee |
Given HD's past history with oil, I would not use it in my XB. They have a credibility issue in a large way IMHO. I have used M1 75-90 since 300 miles and the stuff is the real deal. | ||
| Brucelee |
BTW- I buy the M1 at Pep Boys, Auto Zone or Kragens. All usually have it. | ||
| Ejiii |
"I'm pretty sure HD did not design, develop or produced that oil". No OEM designs, develops or produces their own oils. Oil companies do. The OEM specifies the formulation and works with the oil companies to make sure it's all going to work out. "Sure that oil is not bad, but you should also take into account the revenue aspect of that recommendation. Because they recommend it, doesn't mean it's the best thing for your bike". This does not make sense unless I am reading it wrong. No OEM is going to recommend something bad for their product and believe me, they are not going to get rich selling oil. | ||
| Ingemar |
Ejiii, I misread your post about who produced the oil. Sorry 'bout that. Their main market is bikes and that their main source of revenue. Looking at the price they sell their oil and the amount they sell, I'm sure it will show in the books though, just not on top. Nothing wrong with that, I'm just trying to say that their's 2 sides to the coin. We agree on the fact that they are not selling bad oil (I'm not a believer in that conspiracy theory, if you know what I mean). Like I said, that stuff is more than good enough for your bike. I just believe there is more to it than just the quality of a product when a MoCo puts out a recommendation.  |
