| Author | Message | ||
     Jerseyguy |
For those of you interested in looking at my pulls go to www.patmedia.net/haynesfam . then click on the applet to the charts. This site is the original Drummer site which I never took down. BTW, some a55 hole hacked into Kevin's new site & crashed it. | ||
| Ingemar |
Cool. So you're running a race ecm instead of a tfi (which I thought you had installed). I'm not sure what values for the lambda translates to what AFR ... isn't 1 stoichiometric ... then 0.8xxx would be a little richer, but how much? I don't know guys, just thinking out loud. Help me out Steve  That sucks about kdfab.com. You got log files to debug what happened from which ip address? What version phpnuke is he running? Does he got all the security fixes installed etc? | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Seems like its running rich most of the time. What were the settings on the TFI for your runs? | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Ingemar, I am running BOTH the TFI and Race ECM and yes, I am running rich most of the time. 1000 to 3000 RPM can use a little more gas. Lambda of 1 = 14.7 A/F (for gasoline) = stoich. The goal for best power, so I'm told, is .85 to .9 lambda. (Message edited by JerseyGuy on March 31, 2005) | ||
| Jerseyguy |
DC - go to the top of the web page, the settings are there. | ||
| Ingemar |
My bad, I read your config, but missed TFI in there. And I just noticed it's in the topic title as well! I guess my brain is kinda slow today So can we say that .85 to .9 is about equivalent to 12.5:1 to 13:1 ? Now maybe I am really going blind, but I can't find your tfi settings on that page. (Message edited by ingemar on March 31, 2005) | ||
| Got1nut |
I dont see the TFI settings on the page either. Interesting though. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
My bad, TFI settings were - 1, 0.75, 1, 7 The next runs will be 2,0,0,7 | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Hey Steve Can you post the settings used for each run? Do you have a cone on the filter lid you made? Are your headers coated or wrapped? Are all the pulls 4th gear? What did ya find out on the 4th pot? And what did ya eat for lunch? Thanks Mike lol (Message edited by norrisperformance on March 31, 2005) | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Steve check this link out, it's the poor mans way of keeping up with the A/F. www.speedshop.org/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=129 | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Mike, I added the settings to the web page. They were the same for all pulls. I'm going to make separate web pages for runs with different settings. Flat lid - I couldn't get CNC time to make the cone - it's designed in Solidworks though. Headers are ceramic coated. The first couple are pulls through the gears. The last few are 4th gear pulls if I remember. When the TPS is a flat line at the top, I have the throttle pegged. If you compare speed to rpm you can figure what gear it is. Fourth tops out at 110 MPH or so. Changing the fourth pot from 8ish to 7 seemed to lean it a little bit overall, but I really can't make a clear conclusion. No lunch - on the bike the whole time. On the A/F meters - It's a waste IMHO. First, it has to be a wideband O2 sensor & not the typical ones which are more or less on/off switches. Second, the A/F ratio bounces all over the place instantaneously in real time, especially on a twin cylinder. Third, when you are hanging on for dear life, there's no time to look at bouncy meters. It takes me a good hour to sift through all the curves of a 30 minute run to make meaningful conclusions. I still haven't worked on converting the acceleration curves to HP & Torque. That may turn out to be a complex calculation starting with F=ma. I've probably got $1500 invested in hardware plus a lot of my time. (Message edited by JerseyGuy on April 01, 2005) | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Do you have the new style air box cover laying around, if so, can you stick it on for a couple of runs. I'm thinking that will make a difference. I don't have 1500. but I do have 70. So I'm going to waste 70, bucks on the thing. Maybe it will be a little help. Keep up the good work, what your doing will help a lot of people. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
I have a 12 cover and a new bottom piece too. I cut the original bottom piece away to the bare minimum. It's not a 2 minute changeover. I've got my aluminum velocity stack in there too which complicates removal a bit further. You can get the meter, but don't expect too much. Several online forums have said it's of little value. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Ok, thanks I'm hard headed, so I'm going to get the thing. The main reason is as soon as I get through testing the SS I'll be installing nitrous. So she needs to be on the rich side for that. Say bye bye to the 140 speed barrier. lol lol | ||
| Noface |
norris, you gonna get a chain conversion? It'll still only rev to 7500, and without taller gears, you're still limited... you get there a hell of alot faster though! | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Nope, I'm going to try the nitrous first. I like the belt, no mess. It's only a 20hp dry nitrous kit. It's not here yet. It's coming from www.godspeed.bz in Cali. I do some work for Dan there, where doing some horse trading. They do a lot of turbos and nitrous stuff. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Mike, Nitros on fuel injection..... better wear a steel jock! lol Let me know how it goes. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
From what I've read and the guys I've talk to who are running the dry systems it seems to be a safe way to make hp. You know it's going to hurt the motor in the long run but so would the mods on the engine it would take to get 20 extra hp. My buddies tell me to set the timing to stock specs and make sure the a/f values are ok or on the rich side and the ecm will handle the rest. You put the nozzle in the air box or air scoop and the sensor reads the change and adds more fuel. They say anymore than a 15 or 20 hp kit and your playing with an different animal. If she blows which I don't think it will at all it will be a good time for some engine mods. lol | ||
| Noface |
I think you missed my point. to break 140mph top speed you will NEED taller gears. engine spins to 7500 rpm, with stock gears it'll only go so fast you could make 400hp, and it'll still only go as fast as the gears and rpm will allow. | ||
| M1combat |
"You put the nozzle in the air box or air scoop and the sensor reads the change and adds more fuel." I don't believe this will be the case... It will be in it's open loop mode. In this mode it only uses the stock map, modified by the AFV and the TFI settings. The AFV won't be adjusted unless you run at a steady throttle with the nitrous on for a while. I don't recommend doing that  . I think you should set it up pretty rich for the first run and hope for the best. good luck . | ||
| Hogs |
Noface , Did you try to run your force pipe (Muffler ) or do you know who did , with their stock header on??? | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Noface Yes I did miss you point, sorry, maybe one tooth more on the front pulley, what ya think. (Message edited by norrisperformance on April 01, 2005) | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
You mean one or two teeth less in the front. You want to go smaller front or larger rear or both to increase the rear/front ratio to gain more speed at the terminal RPM. | ||
| M1combat |
Larger front, smaller rear... | ||
| Norrisperformance |
"Larger front, smaller rear..." If you want more top end. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Steve Hows the testing coming? lol Mike | ||
| Glitch |
BTW, some a55 hole hacked into Kevin's new site & crashed it. Assholes! We've staved off a couple of attacks the past two weeks. Honeypot got 'em. We're letting the law take them down. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Mike - I'm in Maryland this weekend working on the shore house. Weather permitting this week, I'll be testing the TFI @ 2,0,0,7. Basically just adding gas at the bottom. I've got to go to the Bragg/Hog primary officer training Thursday to Sunday Glitch - Kevin doesn't know how to punish the Bas tards. | ||
| Hogs |
Hey Jerseyguy, I see Rr-eater in the other thread just posted xb12s d&d tfi etc... is close to your settings ...5:45 off off 4:15 well just that the two middle pots are turned off but his first pot and last are different than yours hmmm I wonder if the two middle pots should be turned off on all the tfi running our sort of gear... but your 2 and 7 is still abit different again..My tfi will be here soon and I have no dynos to play with and I Don`t want to be a totally confused old fella here ... wonder still why the 2 and 7 and his 545 and 415 oh well... | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Hogs, I'm almost certain that the race ECM does a good job on the mid and top range and that the TFI makes those ranges, 4000 & up, too rich. I suspect that the open airbox leans it out at the bottom and the TFI can add fuel down there. I may end up at 2 or 3 on pot 1. That #4 pot still confuses me a bit. Changing from 8.25 to 7 on that one didn't seem to do much that I could see. Once I'm dialed in down low, I'll make a big change in pot 4 & see what happens. I should really pull the TFI out & test too, but it's a pain in the a55 to do. When I'm happy with the TFI settings, I am going to put on the Drummer SS prototype that Kevin sent me to test. | ||
| Hogs |
Hey Jerseyguy, Thanks for all the info , Its great to have a starting place when I get this TFI unit from Dave this week , Cut down on all the playing time I hope :-))Got the Old girl out for a ride (bike) not the wife Yesterday Runs as good as when I laid it up in October on a scale of 1 to 10 A 9 wd. fit in here, But i did notice once in awhile a small cough back through the air box in the midrange might still be cold weather etc..Thanks again... | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Hogs, The reason I originally purchased the TFI was because of that cough. It started when I removed the inner airbox. | ||
| Glitch |
Kevin doesn't know how to punish the Bas tards. Might I suggest a large piece of pipe across the back of the head of the offender? | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Glitch - What size pipe? LOl His site is still down...... Bummer, he's just a guy trying to make a living. | ||
| Glitch |
I feel for Kevin. Black Hat Hackers suck out loud! People that do things like that are beyond me. Is there any clue as to where the attack came from yet? | ||
| Jerseyguy |
I haven't spoken to the web designer who set him up since the attack. He is the only one who can fix the site & I guess he is busy. For the time being, I'm just sending people to the simple original Drummer site that I made. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Agreed, but the whole site was asking for trouble, and (speaking as someone who had a drummer written into the purchase contract for a brand new XB9SX and then crossed it off because we could not figure out how to get one) was basically unusable for a customer. Ditch the goofy PHP-nuke stuff, make 6 or so clear, informative, minimalist and completely static web pages, and slap that up on a secured box. Virtually unhackable. Add dynamic content to that slowly and carefully if the market needs it. Otherwise, just make a good ebay auction, keep reposting it so there are always at least 4 out there, and do everything that way. The overhead they charge is cheap relative to what you would spend designing, maintaining, and securing your own site. (IMHO... no offense to Kevin or Bubba, I tried to buy their pipe and still believe it's the best 9 series pipe built). (And black hats suck. Heck, they aren't even black hats anymore, they are plain and simple theives and vandals.) | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Reep, I couldn't agree with you more..... I have trouble navigating the PHP site myself & I have editing rights. I make no claim to be a web designer as you can see from how primitive my Drummer site is. I just created it in Frontpage. I think it gets the basics across like contact info, & what the product is. If it was down I could upload it again in minutes. Kevin likes the more sophisticated site so I'll go along with what he wants. I just don't have the time to learn how to properly administer a real commercial website. |
