| Author | Message | ||
     Blasterd |
A guy I know just bought a 2000 X1 and he wanted me to help him with his 1st oil change. Is it the same filter as all the other Buell tube framers? He also wants to completley flush the engine, so do I remove the return line at the tank, unplug the plug wires , and hit the starter? Ken | ||
| Mbsween |
Ken, can't speak to the flush procedure, but the X1 filter is the same as the other tubers. I use the Dyna filter, its longer and holds a bit more oil Matt | ||
| Scooterroid |
FTD turned me on to the Dyna filter (Thanks). It's part #63812-90. | ||
| Kahuna |
or you can go to any auto parts store and pick any brand VW 2870 filter which will cost you $2-$3!! thanks to Lornce for that one! | ||
| 99x1 |
Cross reference table at Sportster filters I use Fram PH3614 (used on most Toyota trucks) is orange/black in colour. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Don't do the flush!! Just run the engine for a few minutes before the oil change, then drain the oil. Don't do the flush!! | ||
| Djkaplan |
Just warm the engine up and drain the oil tank. | ||
| Whodom |
If he REALLY wants to flush it, the best, fool-proof, absolutely safe way is to just do two oil changes close together. Warm it up, change the oil & filter. Ride it around the block, or for a couple of days, or however long he feels like, and change it again. Fresh, clean oil is the only truly safe flushing agent. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
If he wants to powerflush the engine,change to a fresh filter, hook the oil inlet line up to a pump(electric fuel pump that runs at 15-20psi is good), the outlet line into a bucket and run the solvent through. Once you have run the solvent through, run 2 quarts of fresh oil through and discard. put the lines back together refill the tank and change the filter to a new one. Run the bike for 50 miles/1 hour then do another oilchange. | ||
| Aesquire |
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html Not a fan of frams. | ||
| Whodom |
Another oil filter cross-reference site with filter recommendations: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html For tube frame Buells these are the filters: (he likes the Purolator or Mobil-1 filters best) # Purolator PL10241 / PL20064 # Mobil-1 M1-102 # Bosch 3330 # AMSOil SMF 133/134/135 # Baldwin B1413 # Fram PH6022, PH6065A # Hastings LF576 # NAPA 1348 # Purolator ML16822 # WIX 51348 | ||
| Captainkirk |
I'm with Buelliedan. Don't do the flush. You just might be opening a can of worms. Just change the oil and let it be. | ||
| Rek |
Why not do the flush? Last time I changed my oil I left the plug open and poured a clean quart through the system. Is that a bad idea? Rob | ||
| Whodom |
Rob, I think he's just talking about running solvent through the engine or something like that. Pouring a quart of fresh oil through the tank like you did can't hurt anything. A few months ago, I heard some moron call into "Click and Clack" on public radio and say that when changing his oil, he always cranked up his car and let it run for a minute or so AFTER DRAINING THE OIL AND WITH THE DRAIN PLUG OUT to make sure all the old stuff had been pumped out of the engine. He wanted to know if that was a "bad thing".  The show hosts got a pretty big laugh out of that one. Hugh | ||
| Bomber |
there's a procedure called the 5 quart oil change -- get the scoot nice and warm, shut it down, change the filter, disconnect the oil return line fromg the oil bag and point it at a containment vessel -- remove the cap from the oil bag, armed with 5 quarts of your favorite oil (all with tops removed) . . . . . start the enging, and replace the oil that drains into the containment vessel by pour new oil into the bag -- after about 4 or 4 and a half quarts (depending on oil filter size, cooler and lines, if any), the oil coming out of the return line will look like brand spanky new stuff (and it will be) I do this a couple times a summer -- first time I did it (after about 10K miles on the MaDeuece), I was surprised at all the spooge (technical term) that came out of the return line before it ran clean . . . . ymmv the Tappet Brothers are hilarious, but I'm not sure I'd treat them as an intelligence source | ||
| Djkaplan |
Heh, heh. I have 300,000 miles on my GMC pick-up and it still gets the same oil pressure it did the day I picked it up. All I ever did was drain the oil and replace it. I'm sure if I flushed the engine out with some kind of solvent, the engine would probably disintegrate. | ||
| Crashm1 |
My internal engine cleaning procedure. Drain oil, change filter, add new high detergent synthetic, the lightest weight for your current ambient temp. Repeat after 250 to 500 miles. Repeat again if necessary. Works well on most of the vehicles I see at work. A lot of the sludge problems I see are caused by going to the local quickie lube which doesn't have the appropriate oil for the vehicle. Newer cars with extended service intervals are getting really fussy about fluids. | ||
| Captainkirk |
IMHO....... "Flushing" the oil will accomplish one thing for sure...you'll drain the oil pump rotor and possibly cavitate it with a big ol' air bubble. Yes, you'll (eventually) overcome the air and build pressure...after a few minutes...of starving your lifters and cam lobes of oil pressure. Change your oil. Ride five miles. Check your oil. It's already started to darken! You're never gonna get all the crap out of the engine. Your best bet is to; 1) Change the oil more often than the SM advises. I go by 2000 miles or 90 days, whichever comes first. Sometimes sooner, if I've been flogging it. Mineral-based oil begins to break down rather quickly...change it before it does. 3000 miles is too long and the Buell recommendation of 5000 is WAY too long. 1000 miles might be overkill if you ride a lot but chances are you'll hit the 90 day mark before the 1K mark! Synth is good if you can afford to change it on the same schedule. After 90 days the moisture in the oil (condensation vapor, etc) is beginning to react with combustion byproducts to form (mild) sulfuric acid. Better to dump it than to start micro-pitting your cam lobes, cylinder walls, etc. (which begins to occur in as little as 10-14 days of inactivity.) 2) Change the oil after AT LEAST a five-mile ride...get that puppy good and warm. 3) Pull the drain plug and go have a cup of coffee or a soda. Give it time to REALLY drain. 4) Pour a little fresh oil into the filter before you install it. This gives you a head start on your "anti-cavitation" program. 5) It wouldnt hurt to flush the oil tank out with solvent once a year or so, but keep that crap outta the motor. There's all kinds of crap hanging onto the inside of your motor that's doing just fine right where it's at, thankyouverymuch! Leave it there. Good luck! | ||
| Buelliedan |
An air bubble is a lot worse than a little gunk! Thats why I said do not flush it! | ||
| Oldog |
Ken: can't say about the flush, don't sound good to me, I would not use solvent or even lighter oil, the 5 quart change (if you insist)sounds ok. If you try to light the motor with the coil wires disconnected and ungrounded you may fry the ECM out put transistors. the energy that gets gets built up for a spark has to go some where I think the Cap'n has the straight scoop  | ||
| Blasterd |
I think we will just change the oil and ride! Ken | ||
| Captainkirk |
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| Hootowl |
The oil pump is a positive displacement design, not an impeller. It will pump air just as well as oil. I wouldn't worry about an air bubble. | ||
| Spiderman |
If you really wan tall the oil out with the exceptions of a few t-spoons. Remove your shock and you will see a small allen screw lined flush with the case. Remove it and you will get a half a quart out of the crank. Plus side.. You get out 95% of all the oil out Neg side... You need to remove the shock, not a hard chore if you have the right stands and tools. |
