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Dualbuells
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got to get the valve adjustment done, has anybody done a write up of the process? I've doe it on my Buell 1125, I have the 2010 manual, and the EBR service manual. I started into it but I am reluctant to dig into the throttle body/ air box. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I attempted to do a search but come up blank on this subject. Thanks in advance!
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D_adams
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 07:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's not a lot to it. Disconnect the throttle cables, loosen the clamps holding the TB's in place, pull them up. There's a mess of wiring in the way, but it's easy enough to see where it all goes. I think there's 2 or 3 connections that feed all the way around them to the front and are underneath, so to disconnect those the TB's need to be pulled up anyway. I want to say there's 4 allen bolts holding the lower airbox down to the motor. Pull the air filter and it's retainer out before pulling the lower airbox. Push the rubber grommets through the airbox that hold the hoses in the bottom and the throttle cables as well. After that, it's pretty straightforward. I pulled the frame on mine the last time, but I had other stuff I was doing to it. It's my understanding that the valves can be done without pulling the frame. You'll either need a bike lift or an engine support stand to hold the bike upright to do it though. The rear shock upper bolt needs to be pulled to access the rear valve cover.
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Snacktoast
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Indeed the frame does not need to be removed to pull off the valve covers. The frame was redesigned to prevent this step from being necessary.
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1_mike
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty much what's been said.

The lower fuel line connections might be a bit of a pain to remove, just squeeze tight and pull.

Do not remove the throttle bodies from the "frame", it all comes off in one big group, once the two base screws are loose.

Be sure to remove all of the wires and hoses from the throttle bodies and the black bracket or "frame".

A picture or two before you start will help you put it back together.

I also snugged up all of the wires and hoses with zip ties to the "frame" when I put mine back together. Helps keep things from flopping around and keeps a lot of junk out of the air stream.

You do need to get the shock out of the way to get the rear cam cover off.
Also...I needed to PULL the front cover off. It was fairly tight against the frame. After it was off, I looked and just removed a little material from one of the interior ribs. Made it a snap to install.

MUCH easier than the 1125's (I have a CR). Especially the front cylinder..!

Mike
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Dualbuells
Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 07:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the helpful information, I only had to replace three shims, even then they were well within acceptable range. I put it all back together and had a 30 minute ride on her before this freakin' winter storm is gonna hit here in northern Michigan. Sure puts a big shit eating grin on your face when the front wheel comes up!
I also found I had a broken main exhaust tab broken off, te one by the kick stand. I took it off, cleaned it up and tig welded back in place, too bad that I should have to do hat after only 6K miles.
The only current issue resulting from the work I did was I pretty sure I routed the throttle cables and main harness bundle in reverse. The main cable bundle inhibit extreme left turn of the steering. If any one could take a picture of how it is routed on your SX I would appreciated it. All together this process was much easier than the 1125R / Cr that I've done.
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1_mike
Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Many of us have had to the same welding..!

I found last weekend, a rosette weld in the body of the lower muffler, left side, about midway, both muffler length and height...The sheet metal is broken right around the weld..!
More welding...

Mike
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Dualbuells
Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still snowing here in northern Michigan, sucks! Is there anyone with a camera that can take a couple pic of the clutch lever side of the throttle and main cable, as it exits the tank/frame. I must have put that back incorrectly cause I am getting interference during full left lock of the steering. I have the SX!
Thanks in advance!
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Ebrfan
Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here are a couple pics. Is it still snowing?



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Dualbuells
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Joe -
thanks for the pic's exactly what I've needed. I've been so busy that I have not had the opportunity to get and re-route and cables.
Looks like the snow is gone fort know, it's going to be in the upper 60's here this weekend. I'm gonna be riding!
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