| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber  |
Y2K MaDeuece going down for a buncha stuff this winter -- 30K miles should I replace the seal behind the clutch basket just because? no signs of leakage, but I figure, what the hey, it's up on cinder blocks anywho? thanks, all | ||
| Reepicheep  |
Mine failed at 20k, for what it's worth. Don't seat it too deeply, or it will get cut right through in about 2k miles. Henrik has the official tool for it, you can make your own as well without terrible grief. | ||
| Firemanjim  |
Reep,don't you mean the main engine seal behind front primary sprocket--isn't that the one Henrik has tool for installing.Clutch basket one I have never seen a real problem with. | ||
| Jarhead |
From personal experience with my hardtail, replace it while you have it tore down that far. It is a real B!tch to have to tear it down again a few months later to replace it!!!! I made my own tool out of a piece of pvc pipe and it worked like a charm. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My bad, did not read close enough / think hard enough (as the clutch basket comes off with the stator anyway). Thanks for the clarification. (thinking to myself.... what seal behind the clutch basket?!?! Its a wet clutch on a trap door tranny...) | ||
| Bomber |
nope, it was MY bad (as there is no seal back there) Reep was right on target, as we're used to -- it was me suffering from a partial brain seizure -- | ||
| Mr_grumpy  |
This is the perfect thread for me to post something my nephew sent today. Some of the terms are in English English, but you'll get the drift, enjoy.  Ooooooooh, how many times have we heard these screams from the garage...?! Before you attempt to carry out a procedure on your car using the Haynes manual the following glossary of terms may be useful. Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. Haynes: This is a snug fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: This is a tight fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Pry... Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into... Haynes: Undo... Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size). Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: PINGGGG - "Where the hell did that go?" Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb... Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part (and maybe a plaster or two). Haynes: Lightly... Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Weekly checks... Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it. Haynes: Routine maintenance... Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned. Haynes: One spanner rating. Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it up? Haynes: Two spanner rating. Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you). Haynes: Three spanner rating. Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days. Haynes: Four spanner rating. Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you? Haynes: Five spanner rating. Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones in it again. Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this... Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. Haynes: Compress... Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some molegrips and a hammer... Haynes: Inspect... Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one" Haynes: Carefully... Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions. Haynes: Retaining nut... Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust. Haynes: Get an assistant... Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know. Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed. Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs. Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places. Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs... Translation: Snap off... Haynes: Using a suitable drift... Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Everyday toolkit Translation: RAC Card & Mobile Phone Haynes: Apply moderate heat... Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Alternatively, clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Index Translation: List of all the things in the book, bar what you need to do. | ||
| Bomber |
Grump -- where do you place the moles after you've gripped them repeatedly? | ||
| Tripper  |
Need English to American translation please: molegrips =  Yes??? | ||
| Reepicheep |
 See! Between Bomber and I, two wrongs *do* make a right. Or maybe we are both just easily confused... If you ever see either of us coming towards you bearing tools... RUN! | ||
| Bomber |
yeah, but if you see BOTH of us, save some time and pain and simply lay back and think of England! | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Got it in 1 Tripper. Twisty little mothers those moles. Especially Morocco Mole, hands up who remembers him. | ||
| Shotgun |
Grump, I loved ur English translation, having used the Haynes manual on an old Speed Triple I bought. It was spot on, old boy. As to the seal in question, Bomber, stick with the stock replacement seal, them prophylactics have an entirely different structure and lack the metal retaining rings. | ||
| Bluzm2  |
Bomber, I just did the seal on my 2K M2. Henrik's seal tool works PERFECT. Highly recommended. The old seal is a single lip design. The new style is double lip. After I pulled my original seal, I could see why it had started leaking. It had hardened considerably. Almost to the point of being brittle. Questions have been brought up questioning the need to replace the crank seal spacer. After looking at it, the new seal lips don't hit the same area as the original single lip seal. Even if there is a bit of wear, the new seal rides on unused "clean" part of the spacer. After you get it apart, it will be real clear and make total sense. Questions have also been posted regarding the direction oof the new seal. If you use the insertion tool, it should only be put in one way. The tool fits between the lip of the seal and the inner ring part of the seal. Then pushes against the flat metal back part of the seal. Again, when you have the parts in hand, it makes sense. I did take a few pictures, when I get a chance I'll post them with descriptions on the approprate area in the KV section. Brad | ||
| 1313  |
 1313 | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
I'm glad I'm not alone, | ||
| Bomber |
thanks, all -- looks like I'll add that seal to my shopping list! (and remember to be nice to H when I ask to borrow his tool!) |
