| Author | Message | ||
     Dsergison |
I have a 2000 x1 with the newest shock,  I drool over the pics of older Buells with the exposed spring. So much so that I dream of taking my shock off this winter and cutting the can off and "going wild" with some fabbed up two bar linkage. What's my solution? -other than forking out $800+ for one from american sport bike? (Message edited by dsergison on November 03, 2004) | ||
| Al_lighton |
Well, You could fork over a mere $579 to American Sport Bike instead, if you can live without adjustable preload and compression damping...  Seriously, if I had the choice of an adjustable Showa or a non-adjustable Works that was built for my weight and riding style/type, I'd take the Works shock every time. Sure, the adjustable compression and rebound version at $749 is better, but if the $$ aren't there, then it's still a better choice than a $500 Showa that will eventually leak and can't/won't be rebuilt. Having replaced the Showa on my S3 with the middle Works shock (adjustable rebound, but not adjustable comp damping) earlier this year, I can say that it truly does work much better. I actually got to drive around corners on Carmel Valley road up at Laguna Seca this year, instead of bouncing around the corners like last year (it's a very ripply road). It is not only a very nice working shock, it is cosmetically gorgeous. Al | ||
| Tripper |
a picture is worth a thousand words, and maybe $749. | ||
| Outrider |
Al...Thanks for the input. If I don't get my X1 upgrade shock dialed in to my liking, I will be contacting you for that WP shock before Spring. | ||
| Dsergison |
hmm. I've NEVER adjusted my current shock, so I suppose I really truly would be better off with even an unadjustable works shock that they set up correctly. Thanks, AL. I'll check it out. At least If I butcher my shock this winter and it doesn't work out to be safe I'll know where to look for a better backup plan. Dan | ||
| Al_lighton |
Here is a picture. The spring is available in black as well, which looks nicer, IMHO. The remote reservoir no longer is finned as in this picture.  It is really a nice looking shock, nicer looking, IMHO, than the Penske. Another interesting tidbit....The Penske shock uses components in common with their shocks for other conventional models. As a result, the connection to the remote reservoir is on the "wrong" side of the piston. The damping adjustment dial on a Penske remote reservoir is NORMALLY the Compression damping adjustment, but in the case of the Buell shock, it becomes the rebound damping adjustment. The adjuster on the other end of the shock is normally the rebound adjuster, but it is the compression adjuster on a Buell shock. This results in not as granular and adjustment of the compression damping as would be optimum. The Works shock is designed specifically as a Buell shock, and the connection hose to the remote reservoir is on the "right" side of the piston. The compression damping adjustment is in the proper place. So, while Penske might have a better name out there in road racing, and indeed the Penske is a fine shock absorber, the Works shock is no slouch. I've been quite pleased with the one that I've put on my S3. The Penske does have one feature that the Works shock does not: Adjustable ride height. That feature is a VERY nice addition. I've been amazed at the difference in handling even a small amount of rear ride height change makes on the Penske on my S1W. I suppose one could get much of that change by adjusting the front ride height by raising or lowering the forks in the triple clamps, but I'm not sure it's exactly the same thing. Works shock:Works Shock link Penske Shock: Penske Shock Link Al (Message edited by al_lighton on November 04, 2004) | ||
| Dsergison |
I don't understand the ride height adjustability? do you mean You can lengthen or shorten the entire shock length independantly of changing the spring compression? | ||
| Pnut |
I have a Works shock and will give them a big  . IMHO it was worth the money in performance first and looks second | ||
| Bomber |
Serg -- you're assumption is correct - most shocks vary the spring preload while altering ride height (as it's the srping preload you are actually adjusting, with ride height varying only as a result of the preload changing) | ||
| Al_lighton |
Serg, What John (Bomber) said. The Penske has a turnbuckle like thingie just ahead of the rear shock eye. You have to undo the rear shock eye connection to change it, which means you can adjust in 180 degree turnbuckle rotations only. The thread appears to be 20 threads/inch, or .050" per thread. With a 2/1 leverage ratio on the swingarm, that yields a .10" ride height change per full rotation. One full turn made a huge difference in turn-in when I was playing with it on my S1W. Similarly, moving your forks up or down by that much makes a big difference as well. Both should be approached cautiously, instability can result with improper setup. This is why setting static sag/preload on a shock/forks is so important. Small differences in ride height make big handling differences. There are other very important reasons for getting the static sag set right, but proper squat of the bike, front relative to rear, is right up there. Al | ||
| Bomber |
Al's got it right (duh!) dropping the forks anout 0.25" in the MaDeuece helped turn in a fiar amount, also reducing the tendancy to stand up while braking in a turn -- As Al said earlier, though, dropping forks is likely not identical to raising rear ride height but, hey, it's me, and I'm not near the rider the M2 is a motorcycle -- better riders may be able to tell the difference, and benefit from it | ||
| Mikej |
A question: If someone were to fit one of these shocks to something like a 2000 M2 and they planned to change the setting from 1-up riding to 2-up riding on short notice, then change the setting back to 1-up riding for a morning commute to work, how much work is involved in this? Are you saying you have to drop one end of the shock down from the shock mount to adjust the ride height? Or is this not the shock for my 1-up/2-up needs? Just curious at this point. Spring is still many months away. And now wondering if a clevis pin arrangement might be necessary to enable dropping the shock up and down and up and down and .... | ||
| Djkaplan |
Interesting conversation, this. I'm not happy at all with the late-style reservoir shock on my M2. It is noticeably better than the SRP Frankenstein shock that it replaced, but I still find the dampening not compliant enough on washboard surfaces. If that wasn't enough, the dealer that installed the replacement shock didn't set the compression and rebound dampening to their correct baseline settings. After eventually lessening the compression one full turn and increasing the rebound by a half turn, I finally compared the settings to the baselines in the Knowledge Vault and found that I had set them dead on to what was recommended. It gave me confidence in my diagnostic abilities to know that I was at least on the right track. Still, the dampening isn't exactly stellar. I was amazed at the rear suspension on the XB series - not all Buells bash your kidneys now. | ||
| Outrider |
I was amazed at the rear suspension on the XB series - not all Buells bash your kidneys now. Interesting indeed. The 2001 upgrade shock on my 2000 X1 is perfect on track like surfaces but toss in a bump or a freeway expansion joint and I either bust my tail bone, crush my kidneys or bust my teeth. What should I adjust on the shock to reduce the jarring yet maintain the handling? If adjusting the current shock won't accommodate my wishes, what will? Since all my sport bikes have had this tendency, I figure it is my screw up and not theirs. Note, I have never had a sport bike that wasn't more comfortable riding two up. Any suggestions or am I looking for something that is impossible to remedy? | ||
| Doughnut |
I'd love an exposed spring shock Who wouldn't? | ||
| Jmartz |
Al Can either shock be obtained with the proper length braided hose in order to be able to install the remote reservoir in the stock location? Or is this not really possible due to other reasons like the diameter or length of these reservoirs compared to the old WP. I am still running the original shock on my S1. Never took the bike for any of the recalls. With nearly 50,000 miles the ride is getting a bit stiff. I think seal and other particles are occluding the orifices. | ||
| Bomber |
OUtie -- try reducing your compression damping a touch (keep records), then your rebound damping (records, again) and ride a stretch of typical roads between each adjustment -- compression and rebound adjustment do have a small affect upon each other you will never get a Caddilac-like ride on your X1 (or, rather, prehaps I should say Citroen-like), but you can reduce the harshness some -- weather or not "some" is enough only your butt-ometer can tell Note Bene -- tough approximatley equals 1/4 turn | ||
| Outrider |
Bomber...Thanks for the input. Now I have some guidelines to follow with the adjusting info DaveS sent me. Wasn't sure what to adjust first. LOL Not looking to soften the ride, just want to reduce the shock waves so I don't have to ride with a mouth guard. Other than that, the X1 is perfect which is the reason I really hesitate making any adjustments without knowing what I am doing. Incidentally, I didn't have the jarring with the original SRP equipped shock, just the new one HD Goodwilled. Both shocks are absolutely fantastic in the twisties and roller coaster roads around the area. Again, it is just the reaction to certain radical road surfaces that is annoying. Thanks again for the info. | ||
| Stealthxb |
I miss exposing myself on Spring Break! Oh...wait, this tread was about shocks... You should see the look on peoples faces when... talk about exposed spring shock! (Message edited by stealthxb on November 05, 2004) | ||
| Bomber |
Outie -- check sag (the suspension's not yours!) first -- you'll need an assistant, but it won't get the assistance hands dirty or nuthing! all ya need is a tape measure | ||
| Road_thing |
Jose--donde estado, amigo? rt | ||
| Outrider |
I miss exposing myself on Spring Break! Just cause your older doesn't mean you have to stop having fun!  | ||
| Buellkowski |
Exposed & a shock!  | ||
| Djkaplan |
"Any suggestions or am I looking for something that is impossible to remedy?" The first thing I'd do is baseline the settings first. I copied this from the suspension category in the Knowledge Vault... Compression Damping (small screw at rear of shock) M2/M2L/S1/S1W/X1 - 2.25 turns out (counterclockwise) from full in (clockwise) S2/S2T/S3/S3T - 2.5 turns out from full in Rebound Damping (small screw on remote reservoir) M2/M2L/S1/S1W/X1 - 1.5 turns out from full in S2/S2T/S3/S3T - 1 turn out from full in Keep track of how many clockwise turns it takes to get to the end of the adjustment range so you have some indication of where you initially were. You may find, like I did, that the dealer may not have adjusted the base line settings properly. I don't think many Harley mechanics are adept with adjustable suspensions - I had horrible jarring because of excessive compression dampening and my rear end was "hobby horsing" over bumps because of too little rebound. You'll never get the stock shock to perform as well as a Penske or WP unit, but you can at least make it as good as it's going to get. |
