Author |
Message |
Justin_grant
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 02:48 pm: |
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I need to stiffen the rear shock of my 99 M2 and need to know the process. Any help appreciated. Justin |
Mikej
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 03:34 pm: |
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Justin, The first question is: does your bike have the SRP shock fix on it, or is it a newer upgraded shock? If it has the SRP cover/clamps on it then take it in to your dealership and say you want it upgraded because you object to the appearance of it. If it is the newer version then you just loosen the big locknut at one end of the shock, turn the housing of the shockbody, then retighten the big locknut. For me and my 2000 M2 when carrying a load or baggage or for riding two-up I crank it all most all the way in so few if any threads are showing. But this being winter and with my not having adjusted it let alone ride it for a long while you should wait until others post to verify if I just told you to turn it in the right direction. Note: you do not loosen the nuts and bolts at the shock eyes, you only loosen the big huge thin nut at the rear end of the shock body. You will probably see at least 1" of exposed threads between the lock nut and the rear shock mounting eye. Check your sag when you're done. |
Andys
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 05:38 pm: |
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You are correct Mikey, you shorten the shock to stiffen it. |
Newfie_buell
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 07:57 pm: |
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So is shortening the shock turning it towards the front of the bike or turning it rearward. |
Andys
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 08:19 pm: |
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Just look at the threads and you'll understand. I don't have my bike here to look at and it's been a while since I've even seen the thing; winter and all. Keep in mind that these Buells pull on their shocks when the wheel moves up. I found putting an oil filter wrench around the body of the shock is the easiest way to turn the damn thing. You'll need one of those oil filter wrenches you can open. Not much help, but I hope it was enough. |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 09:42 pm: |
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"You are correct Mikey, you shorten the shock to stiffen it." Increased shock preload doesn't "stiffen", it only adjusts the amount/ratio of compression to rebound travel; only a new spring or increased damping will stiffen the ride. The exceptions to that would be for a variable rate spring/suspension-linkage. Of course Andy knows that better than I. I'm just being semantically picky. It's conventionally accepted to refer to increased preload as being "stiffer." |
Andys
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 10:59 pm: |
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Hey Blake, I'm already getting killed on another website about suspension and its functions. I come here for friendship and a shoulder. I know you weren't busting me on purpose. Do you know anyone with an RC51? It seems that the preload adjusters on the forks don't do anything. When opening up the forks I found that the spring seats up against the fork cap instead of being "washered" to the damping rod. And it's the damping rod that's connected to the external adjuster. So when you crank down the adjuster, the damping rod moves but since the spring isn't connected to it, preload stays unchanged. Just like the old damper type forks. You know how those half washers in the WP forks hold the spring against the damper rod? Well in the RC nothing connects the spring to the rod. Guys over at http://speedzilla.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=23598 think I'm crazy. I need another opinion. Help please. |
Blake
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 01:10 am: |
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Sorry man, I just blew all my suspension knowledge in one shot. I did take a look at your thread on that RC51 forum. My advice would be to ignore that jerk or even better simply bag it. |
Andys
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 07:46 am: |
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Thanks. Yea, I couldn't believe believe how rude they were. That's why I come here. |
Mikej
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 08:39 am: |
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I found a strap type oil filter wrench that works well, has sort of a rubberized nylon strap and a cam-lever handle. Works good and doesn't leave a dent. The plumbing wrench works well on the huge nut, I forget what the wrench is called though, drain cap wrench maybe? Getting close to spring so I have to go find what box all the tools are in now. Three moves in two years is confusing. |
Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 09:14 am: |
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the plumbing wrench name is also unknown to me, but it has no teeth on the jaws, and doesn't goober up the nut . . .. . it's also less than 15 cash dollars american at Home Depot (or was a couple of months ago) there are lots of strap wneches available . . . I saw one on sale at Sears last week for less than $10 (one large for oil filters and tuber shocks, and one little one for jars and the like in the kitchen . . .extra points are always valuable!) |
Justin_grant
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 09:39 am: |
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The wrench is called a "Spud" wrench. Thanks for the tip, I will adjust it. When riding Sunday, I hit a large pot-hole and with a 100 pound passenger, my license plate hit the rear tire and bent the plate.... Justin |
Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 09:51 am: |
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Spud Wrench? how very coooool! sounds like I need one for the kitchen as well . . .. . Try check the sag as MikeJ suggests . . . .there are so many different specs to follow, I'd suggest you use the one in the manual as a starting point, than up it to accomodate a passenger when needed . . . . . |
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