Author |
Message |
Paw
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 10:35 am: |
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I do not want to pay the $12 per quart for the harley synthetic oil when i can get a brand name diesel synthetic oil for a bout 7 per quart. But what is the best non Harley brand of oil to use in my 2009 XB12R? |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 10:57 am: |
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Diesel oil isn't going to have the correct friction properties to work with the wet clutch in your Buell. This topic is a can of worms, but if you don't want to use the HD synthetic, Mobil1 makes a VTwin 20w50 that a lot of folks like. Price is exactly the same as the HD stuff, though. Amsoil is also a popular choice and is about $2 cheaper per quart, but is harder to come by for most folks. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:04 am: |
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Sorry for my ignorance... But the motor oil in XB's is also the tranny fluid? So changing the oil changes ALL the fluids in the bike? (beside obviously brake and suspension). Interesting! |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:06 am: |
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Mike - no, it's the same as your M2. XB's have two oil cavities - one that is shared between the engine and transmission, and the other that is for the Primary case. |
Teeps
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:16 am: |
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Xl1200r Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:06 am: Mike - no, it's the same as your M2. XB's have two oil cavities - one that is shared between the engine and transmission, and the other that is for the Primary case. ??? ! Engine oil is separate from the transmission and clutch. The transmission and primary (clutch) share the same oil. And, I only use Formula + for the primary/trans unit. I've run Rotella (diesel oil) in the engine, it didn't seem to care. (Message edited by teeps on September 26, 2008) |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:32 am: |
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My bad - brain fart. Disregard anything I've said. |
Straitpipes
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 12:30 pm: |
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go in the oil site on this forum |
Hr_puffinstuff
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 02:33 pm: |
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i paid $12 for the HD stuff, $10 for the Mobil1 V-twin. my bike prefers the Mobil1, so i'll be using that from now on. |
Iamike
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 07:34 pm: |
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The following is a real good discussion on oil & filters. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html |
Rick_a
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 08:02 pm: |
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A lot of import guys with unit construction engines are using Shell Rotella synthetic. That's probably your best bet for a proven, inexpensive synthetic. |
Just_ziptab
| Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 12:04 am: |
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Save your money.........Wal*Nards 15W50 Mobil 1........... XB9R with 2,300 HARD miles on this service and still at neart full. Castrol synthetic SAE 75W-90 in the tranny and all is well with one change in 8,300 miles. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 09:07 am: |
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I wish they made Rotella in 20w50. I use it in the Saab (Oil circulating turbo bearing and cat right under the oil pan, so it needs synthetic) and used it with good luck in the KLR-250. The KLR and the XB really need 20w50 though (IMHO). That poor KLR needs all the help it can get keeping oil pressure up. I use the walmart branded synthetic for the Sienna (which also can sludge). |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 09:11 am: |
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I will say avoid the Castrol 5w50. My XB9 ran well on that stuff, but consumed about 1/3 quart of it every 1000 miles. The closer I get to real 20w50 (and I think Castrol Syntec is closer to 15w50 then 20w50) the less oil I consume. |
Indy_bueller
| Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 10:19 am: |
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Golden Spectro is also very good. BE VERY VERY CAREFUL what you use in the Primary (trans)!!!! Only use oil that is safe for HD/Buell primary cases! |
Just_ziptab
| Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 12:08 am: |
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quote:"I will say avoid the Castrol 5w50". Indeed! 5w50 is a 5 weight oil. WAY too thin for an air cooled Buell. Might be OK in constant sub zero weather. You want the first number to be at least 15W and 20W if it's really always hot weather.The first number is the viscosity/pour point of the oil. The bigger the number, the longer you need to warm it up before you start thrashing on it,regardless of the second number. |