| Author | Message | ||
     Mfell2112 |
Hi all, After 9,000 miles I think my speedo sensor finally bit the dust. I was reading the knowledge vault as well. What is the latest on a permanant fix for the speedo sensor issue? BTW, how much do they cost? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Mike | ||
| Ray_maines |
There is no permanant fix and the temp. fix costs $50. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Last I checked (two weeks ago) there was still not an updated part. I have about 6 of the filters sitting on my bench, mostly completed. Most are spoken for, but I will pull one aside for you if you want. Send me a shipping address offline. You will still need to replace the sensor, but the filter will protect the new one. I did have one reported failure of a sensor with a filter, but I don't know which design it was (older 12v setup, or new 5v setup). The parts are on the way for me to do a post mortem and see what it was and why it failed. | ||
| Spiderman |
I went thru three speedo sensors before I changed my Plug wires and routed the cable from any main electrical source an Blamo no more burned out sensors. | ||
| Hootowl |
Spidey, you mean no more burned sensors YET. I had one last three years, then lost two within a few days. It's hit and miss. Some sensors hang out, some don't. Everyone's best bet is to install Reep's filter/regulator device. That's what the factory did. | ||
| Spiderman |
LOL yes YET 20k plus miles on her and I'm Still waiting.  I have seen this problem On Big Twins also Mostly Dyna's and FXR's cause of some of their routing for the wiring Harness. The Plug wires are crap and the voltage jumps to the speedo sensor wire an Blamo Fried sensor. | ||
| Hootowl |
Like I said, my second one lasted for three years, and about 30K miles. The two subsequent ones fried within a few days. I hear you about the wiring though. That's what prompted Reep to make the filters and eventually the regulator. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Hmmm..., I have different plug wires with much thicker insulation and haven't had the sensor failure yet. 20,000 miles and counting... | ||
| Reepicheep |
That was their rev 2 or rev 3 version. It helped with the cases where the wires were breaking, but this was not the major failure mode. Count your blessings. | ||
| Cyclone1 |
Stock wires...20K miles...same sensor  Reep, BTW my roomie got a filter from you, but it doesn't read speed for some reason. The sensor is a known good one. Any advice? Frank | ||
| Crusty |
Frank, swap your good sensor with the filtered one. If the speedo works, then the problem is with the filtered sensor. If it doesn't, the problem's with the speedo. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Aaack. Check all connections, does the LED light up? That means at least input power and ground inputs are good. I test the voltage regulation before I ship 'em. The actual sensor signal wire (white) is just a pass through, so you can bypass that wire completely if necessary. Obviously, the power and ground outputs would have to have a good connection and be working as well. Power up the bike and slap a meter on them and see if you see 5 volts across the other two (non white) wires. | ||
| Cyclone1 |
The sensor that I put in it, works fine if you plug it into the bikes harness. LOL, I can't see an LED anymore...I siliconed a cocoon around the filter, and camoflauged it with a half a roll of electrical tape, hehe  I also crimped the ends on and added the proper conectors, so I could just plug it right in-line between the sensor and the bike's harness. Is it possible that the labels were bakwards? Or should it still be getting power that way? I'll mess with it some more, if I can ever get him peeled off of it for any length of time Frank | ||
| Reepicheep |
It won't work backwards. Though now that I look at the schematic, hooking it up backwards and putting it on the bike may light the LED. Really brightly. And maybe blow it (just the led, everything else will work normally). Probably not though. You can tell from the board which is input and which is output. The side by the LED is the output side, but I typically take the large wires and cross them over to the other side and cable tie them down before potting them with liquid electrical tape. You should be able to tell where the large wire splits into the three conductors that get attached to the PC board, and trace it from there. The center pin of the bigest thing on there (big transistor case, this is the voltage regulator) should be ground. The right pin, with the pins sticking down and as viewed from the front, should be regulated output (5 volts). The left should be unregulated input (though it is still filtered at that point with a coil and a diode). Peel all that goo off it and throw a meter at it! | ||
| Mikej |
I did that once, broke the meter. |
