| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
Note: When you install it, check to see that you can shift it into all gears PRIOR to putting on the primary case. Sometimes there is the tiniest bit of interference on the "brontosaurus head" on the the detent plate when going from 3rd to 4th gear. You might need to file the shifter pawl ever so slightly to make it work. Not all bikes do it, but we've seen it more than once. Also, while the tranny is open, inspect all the gear shift dogs for burrs. Same for the ends of the shift forks that ride in the gear grooves. A little bit of deburring here and there can really help smooth things out. Al | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Is this a item that you want to enter in the knowledge vault, perhaps? | ||
| Froggy |
I tend to use Google Desktops notepad or email myself for something like this  | ||
| Jackbequick |
Those are all parts that are hardened and annealed to a working strength, some will also get some additional surface conditioning by heat treating processes. But think of them as hardened parts that will have a few thousandths on the surface that is a little harder than the mass of the part. All of the burrs should have been removed during manufacture and prior to or during the hardening. In most cases, you would expect to not find any real sharp corners in a transmission that are not slightly smoothed or radiused. The best burr finding tool in the world is the human finger and fingernail. If you drag your fingernail up and down and across the splines on a mainshaft or countershaft and feel any catches or burrs, they should be removed with a few strokes from a stone. Same for the corners of the curved parts like the detents on the detent plate. That is stamped out of sheet steel and it leaves the edges sharper on one side than the other. But it should also be deburred in manufacture. But if you can follow those edges with a small round stone dipped in kerosene of light oil and held at an angle to the edge, it will find and eliminate any remaining burrs. Never remove any more than is necessary or you'll run the risk removing a a layer of surface hardening that prevents rapid wear. I have a good assortment of types, sizes, and shapes of stones in my tool box, I'm the third generation user for some of them but they all are needed or used at one time or another. A good mechanics stone is the small rectangular stones (4" x 1" x 1/4" or so) like the orange colored Norton Crystalon pocket hones. Or one of the fish hook hones with a groove in them. Another good one is the round white ceramic rods that are 1/4" or so in diameter. An ideal selection of stones would include rectangular, square, round, triangular, and rounded and tapered or slip stones. Use light pressure and a kerosene or light oil lube, metal removal will not be real apparent but you can see the brighter or shiny spots where you have dressed a burr off an edge or simply radiused a small amount. If a burr was felt before you stoned the edge, the improvement will be readily apparent to the touch. Prominent burrs and dents will become bright spots and you just want to take off most or all of the height and blend that into the surrounding area. I was a gunsmith for some years, stones were something that I simply could not have lived without. To get a M1911 or M1911A1 with a "perfect" National Match trigger with a smooth, clean 4 lb. "hardball gun" pull was easy enough to do. As long as you had the stones of the right shapes and grades, the right jigs and fixtures, and understood exactly where the metal needed to be removed, reshaped, and polished. And you could get the same gun down to 3 (or even 2 pounds for better shooters) if it was going to be used with wadcutters. Jack |
