| Author | Message | ||
     Edonis |
Anyone brave enough to give this theory a thorough testing on a new Uly XB12X or other 2006 model? http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Also, post your thoughts as I'll be getting a new car soon, and I'm split 50/50 as wether to actually go for it at the moment. Cheers | ||
| Djkaplan |
When I was racing 2-strokes, that was standard procedure after every ring change, but I'll just follow the manufacturers recommendation for breaking a totally new motorcycle in. There is more to it than just making sure the rings seat correctly. | ||
| Whodom |
I think the only way this would ever be settled is if they bought, (for instance) 20 bikes, 2 each of 10 different models. Break 1 of each in by the book, and break the other in per Motoman's suggested method. Dyno them all at the end of the suggested break-in period and see if a clear trend shows. Then run the bikes for ~50,000 miles and dyno them again to see how they hold up. Let's see, that should require a budget on the order of millions. Anyone got some spare cash lying around?... | ||
| Outrider |
Have done it both ways with new cars and bikes and quite frankly never had any problem either way. Then, I just may be the lucky one, eh?  | ||
| Chasespeed |
Actually, this is how most race and hotrod motors are broken in, on a dyno..using about the same procedure he lists...... The motor in my Nova, was a 359 SBC(overbore and offset grind on the crank..) Motor was broken in on a dyno, ran it for 6 years, before I sold it...without a teardown...nitros, dragstrip/street Car was pretty much a daily...not a trailer queen.. put about 80k on her, sold it last year... The guy a sold it to smoked it, missed a shift without the rev limiter, valve smacked the piston at just about 9500 rpm... If it works on a car motor, it shoud work on a bike motor as well...same principle.... Chase | ||
| Steve_mackay |
I bet the Buell Demo "Fleet" is broken in this way  | ||
| Tramp |
breaking in on a dyno is absurd. | ||
| Aesquire |
I think you can indeed break in on a dyno as described. I don't know if it's the BEST way. The Mototune guy is opinionated. That does not mean he's wrong, or right. | ||
| Swampy |
The break in thing makes sense, as I have used a scale to measure piston and ring drag when assembling engines, but the real story is about the porting that he advocates. Back in the early 80s I built (For a customer) a 618 C.I. Boss 429 motor, originally the "Stock" heads came with intake ports you could put tennis balls down, when we got done with it the intake ports were raised and about a third of the original volume. Anyways, food for thought. | ||
| Knotrider |
for what it's worth, i have broken in motors every which way. it depends on my mood at the time of completion. they all worked fine. i'm not a super nerd who would be able to tell if one way was better than the other anyhow.i just keep changing the oil(s) at least twice as often as is recomended by manufacturer. another tidbit of info to confuse everyone some more. my cousin, who has worked for exxon research and engineering for about 15 years has told me that many manufactures assemble their motors with special break-in oil. these are all oils that we as civilians cannot get. they are designed specifically for break-in only and should be changed at the prescribed mileage. it does kinda make sense that the companies would encourage a break-in that would leave us with motors in a somewhat relaxed state of tune. and maybe even prone to premature failure (paranoid?) | ||
| Chasespeed |
breaking in on a dyno is absurd. Why you sat that? When I rebuild mine, its gonna be... Almost anytiem I have to rebuild a motor, its broken in/tuned on a dyno....never had any issues... and when its done, you can run it how you choose.... Look in Summit, or Jegs, most of the AFTERMARKET crate engines, are dyno'd, and ready to run... There is no fundamental difference between these engines and ours... My 2 cents Chase | ||
| Rick_a |
I've been breaking in easy, as in keeping the RPM's down but puttin' some load on it by taking routes with a lot of turns and stops and accelerating hard wherever I can. My main thing is that if a problem arises, I'd rather not see it at high speed/high rpm. This is my first new top end ever. | ||
| Trac95ker |
Some where I read that hastings rings were used in H-D motors. I went to their site and this is what they say about Break in and ring seating: http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%20Tips/breakin_procedure.htm http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%20Tips/compression_ring_seating.htm | ||
| Whodom |
I remember the owner's manual for Chrysler products used to say something to the effect of "Brief periods of full-throttle acceleration (within the limits of the law) are beneficial to a good break-in". That goes right along with what Hastings recommends above. | ||
| Aaomy |
before you start you brake in process you should heat cycle your engine a couple of times. after that i think i has to do with what you have done to your engine and how you intend to run it. after last years tear down i broke in my refreshened cylinders and new hastings rings per their specks. it is a very good way to "seat" rings. but that was on an engine with most parts run past their break in points. on a new engine you arnt only trying to seat your rings. you are also hardening your new valve seat and other such issues. also engines tend to break "into" a run rpm rate. if you take a new engine an break it in a one particular speed parts ware to the "harmonics" of that rpm range. after that point that will be the smoothers running range for that engine. this kinda falls into a rotating mass wanting to balance itself. guess the best thing to say is this. do what ever the hell you want and their is only you to blame.. look at how your engine is going to be run. if most of your time is spent taking it easy. then break it in that way. if its a race bike meant to have the living hell run out of it and more frequent tear downs.. then run the living hell out of her and enjoy, ps just my two cents .. | ||
| U4euh |
When I bought my Buell, the old service manager who gave me the standard once over with the bike said the same thing, WFO, just don't hold it at any given RPM very long. Get on it as hard as you want, but get there and back off. If on the highway, go between 2900-3500 Rpm's to keep it different. So far @ 14,530 miles I have not had a problem. Now that I have said that, guess I should start saving money for a major repair!) | ||
| Tramp |
been breaking-in my own engines for a very long time. first, the less static runtime, the better. if you think you're going to sit, running, shut her down, BEFORE you sit for any time (immediate shutdown avoids heat pockets) first 50 miles, use older, used airfilter, stcok exhaust, no more than 1/4 throttle, constantly varying rpm, HILLS! drop oil (organic). next 50, stay on hilly terrain, run range from no throttle through 1/4, then try 1/4 to 1/2. drop oil. next 100 miles, up and down from no throttle to half, hill work, more immediate throttle increase than previously. drop oil. next 100 miles, no throttle to 3/4 throttle, hills, always moving, open up a bit more 'choppily', try a wheelie or two... drop oil. next hundred miles, ride from no throttle to WFO, never spending more than a few seconds at any given RPM> drop oil. next 200, ride it like you stole it, drop oil. next 1000, same. and so on until you only change oil every 2-3k miles. i've never even had to ppep into my topend, yet. |
