| Author | Message | ||
     X1jake |
i'm sure this question can be answered in the KV but I couldn't find it... rode to work Sunday a.m. parked my bike in the underground garage and got off work roughly 12 hours later. get on bike to start it up and have nothing past the accessory part of the switch. i turn the key and get headlight on very dim, horn works fine, turn signals work, tail light is fine, and break lights work... no engine light, no oil light, no neutral light and no fuel pump. so I cussed a bit and took the bus home after a 12 hour day in 95 degree heat. went in early today to see if I could diagnose the problem, all fuses are fine, no pinched wires that I could see in the dim light of the parking garage. made sure the battery connections were tight and clean and that all wires that I could see were intact... does this sound like an ignition switch problem? or should I be looking elsewhere. Jake (bit of a whiny rant cause I am tired and want my bike to run  | ||
| Budo |
I dunno if this is it but on my 1998 S1W I had a problem where the electrical plug that energized the starter would back out. Everything appeared to work but no juice to the starter. So look on the right side of the bike below the starter there is a plug that is part of the wiring harness. Hard to see, look carefully, pull on it and push on it to see if it is loose. Good luck, check the x1 files | ||
| Brentx1 |
X1Jake, The ignition switch on my X1 has been replaced 3 times since I bought it new in 99. It was the same problem each time. The switch wouldn't go past the acc. position. Getting a new switch from Buell turned out to be a lengthly process, so I finally just installed a single pole single throw toggle switch hidden on the bike. The cost was about $3.00 for the switch from my local automotive parts store. | ||
| Rick_a |
You can get aftermarket barrel-style ignitions for about $25. The only thing is it is hard to find someone to make spares. | ||
| Dustykat |
X1Jake.. Make a jumper lead, put it across the Red and the red/black stripe wires in the harness, after you unplug the switch from the harness. This bypasses the switch and lets you start and run your bike to get you home. And yes people, It is this easy to hot wire your motorcycle. | ||
| X1jake |
dusty, probably a stupid question but... will this cause the bike to start right away or will I still need to use the starter button??? don't want to be sitting there and have the bike surge on my especially if I have a false neutral. also, will I have tail/ break lights turn signals?? | ||
| X1jake |
brent x1, could you kind of walk me through how you did this? still learning about her and don't know a lot about electrician type stuff so I don't want screw anything up!! Jake | ||
| X1jake |
oh ya if anyone has any suggestions they don't want to post so the whole world to see (IE how to hotwire in more detail  ) my email is jaclewis@lycos.com... | ||
| X1jake |
thanks for the suggestions guys got the bike home after spending about 5 bucks to get a switch and some female ends to jumper it. by the way brent, I got the same type switch as you suggested and jerry rigged it just to get home my question is, how do you get it hooked up so you also have all of your accessory stuff like speedo brake lights turn signals.... I had my tach and headlight on the way home but nothing else?? thinking about running this configuration for a while until I can get it properly fixed, but really kinda need the brake lights and such. basically any suggestion on how to keep the harness intact and together so I have the accessories but with the switch also to bypass the ignition... Jake | ||
| Oldog |
Jake: when the switch goes to the "on" position all 3 wires are "made" at that point, If you don't mind 2 keys, check with AL at American Sport Bike If he does not have a low cost option then go to custom chrome. ~ $35 and you have to re wire the plug to the cc switch have to cut the plastic dash too, Radio shack $20 for a soldering iron and some heat shrink cut the original harness off near the old switch cut the new switch leads near the middle If you need to fiddle the connection ( correct arrangment ) strip & tape to test, then solder with the heat shrink to complete, to do the toggle switch use a double pole double throw main power to the center ignition feed to one end acc feed both ends (other pole) center is off ( I do not recomend this you may not get paid if there is a theft and or insurance issue ) at $35~ you can replace a few more of them when the Buell unit is over $100.00 My .02$  good luck Ol'Dog PS dont worry about the world knowing about the wiring a chimp could figure it out. Sides thats what the S.H. Lok is for, that way you can watch em do doughnuts while waiting for the sherrif!  (Message edited by oldog on August 02, 2005) | ||
| X1jake |
thanks oldog for your suggestions and advice! i am kinda chimp like though but only in the 2D schematic picture way. just a simple question because I have never been very good at reading the schematics (having the real life thing in front of me is no problem though). looking at my harness there is only three connection points (red, red/black, red/white)... my question is: on your schematic does the left row of dots represent the say male side of the harness and the right side represent the female side or vice versa?? sorry to ask what are probably simple questions(is there a monkey smiley anywhere) but the real thing in front of me helps a lot or at least a mental image of it. guess that is why I don't deal with this stuff(but trying to learn!!!) Jake oh ya, was just kidding about the world knowing how to do it, just my sense of humor!!! | ||
| 5liter |
X1jake: Ebay:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BUELL-IGNITION-SWITCH-WITH-KEYS-L-K_W0QQitemZ 4565497475QQcategoryZ35571QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem | ||
| Oldog |
Sorry Jake I did not think that thru or I would have Omitted the chimp thing,  the diagram is supposed to be a simplified picture [ there i go "assuming" ]  the dots are the pins on a 2 pole 2 throw switch as seen from the back. the 2 center pins are "common" and the RED wire from the main breaker goes here this is the power line to the other systems the black line is the RED WITH BLACK(power to the ignition system) the blue line is the "ACC" line or RED WITH GREY BTW Jake it takes a lil practice and time to learn to read this kind of stuff, and each of us has a "gift" Glad ours are different, the world would be soo boring if we were all the same  Good on you Brother Ride Safe, from the porch Ol' Dog | ||
| Joem |
How about one of these? http://bulletproofelectronics.com/arse.htm | ||
| Rick_a |
Most bikes you can just twist all the ignition leads together, too. | ||
| Oldog |
Joem: Thats Cool! talk about messing with some one!  |
