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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bike is tuned in to a T across the band,

Put on a tiebar for the rear suspension and a limiter strap for the front.

Bike is lowered aprox 4"

I get to 1000ft at 10.4 and finish the 1/4 (1320ft) at 12.5

Basically I get to 100MPH and she fals flat.

SO what are your collective thoughts?

Gearing change in the tranny, sproket change?
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Bud
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/accel_sim1.htm

spidy ,
using us gearing ?
1/4 mile in 4e or 5e gear ?

my log from a last year race ( xb1160 )


i'm no dragrace hero, can't lanch here fast
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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well the tranny is all U.S. But I have a 1 tooth up sprocket in the front.

I am clicking into 4th just before I hit the trap.
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Buells Rule!
(Dyna in disguise)

Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When is your final shift taking place & what gear are you into to? Also what rpms are you crossing the finish at?
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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

about 300 to 400 ft before the finish I shift into 4th I am crossing the line at about 3500rpm.

I tried crossing in 3rd gear but she was bouncing off the limiter at 100 ft before.
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Buells Rule!
(Dyna in disguise)

Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sounds like a gearing change is in order. 3500 rpms is pretty much dogging the motor, you would like to keep it a bit higher to stay in the meat of the torque band.
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Hutch
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

don't just look at the 1000' mark look at the hole run . what was your 60' time ,330 time. Also what about how much you weigh, I drag raced a mostly stock 98 S3 and the best I did was 12.33 at 111mph. my 60' times were 1.89 to 2.10 and I weigh about 260# with all my gear on. I would go into 5th gear right before the finish line. Track prep is also a nother factor and air temp and pressure.Good luck.
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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

all those times are simulare to mine and same with the weight.

The reason I say the 1000' mark is just short of the trap (320') to be exact.

It takes me 2+ seconds to go 320' somethin aint right.

I have emailed Baker to see if the sell a better 4th gear so I can keep the revs in the range to make the power.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Spidey,why would you have a 1 tooth larger gear in the front?Drag racing typically uses lower gearing so you should be putting on a 26 tooth front for better acceleration and that will put you in 4th at a higher rpm.I really think even lower than that so you shift to 5th to use all your gears.Long ago(really long ago) when I had my bracket race cars I would gear the car so I would cross the line near redline in 4th in a 4 speed car.

(Message edited by firemanjim on July 24, 2005)
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Have you thought about dropping the front primary sprocket 1 tooth? IIRC the XB9 runs a smaller front sprocket then the Tubers did, so run an XB9 front primary gear and chain...it will aid in quicker acceleration but at the cost of lower top speed. Whats your bike topping out at now?
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Spidey,

My S1 was running about 12.5 in the 1/4 and I ran stock gearing. I can't remember the speed and I was about 235 at the time.

I'd say go back to one tooth smaller on the front.

I thought that one tooth smaller on the front will give you a higher top speed.
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Rocketman
Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you're 100ft from the trap in 3rd I'd experiment with short shifting and keeping the throttle pegged before I changed anything. Likewise I'd short shift to 4th in the same way.

You'll find the difference in traction off the line will affect where you shift down the quarter so practice to get better traction. Tyre pressure and burnout and how you position yourself on the bike. This might aid you in getting four gears down the quarter but four gears in the right place which can make a difference.

Don't change anything until you're satisfied your findings are consistent. When you are satisfied then ONLY change one thing at a time. End of the day 100ft short of the line might be a bridge too far to go through in 3rd but if you can you will save time by shifting one less gear and in my book that's worth trying for. 3rd or 4th whichever but you're still not quite on the money look at different tyres. That's not just different manufacturers or tyre sizes but profiles too. You need to establish the rolling radius of a tyre that might alter your gearing just enough to give you that extra 100ft in 3rd gear for example.

Rocket
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Firemanjim
Posted on Monday, July 25, 2005 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Newf,front sprocket goes -- smaller(less teeth) means "lower gearing" as faster accell,slower top end.More teeth-bigger front means less accell,more top speed.
Rear sprocket gearing is the opposite.
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