| Author | Message | ||
     Twowheeldream |
OK, I was trying to replace the primary chain tensioner to the new one.... the head on one of the clutch cover bolts is now stripped out... figured "screw it, put the other 3 bolts back in, fill it back up through the inspection cover and take it to the dealership and see if they can fix it.... then one of the inspection cover screws strips out the head.... now what? anyone got any ideas? | ||
| Sleez |
if you can get the derby cover back off, you can fill it through there, or throw the bike in a truck?? | ||
| Spiderman |
Use a dremel and cut a slot into it, then take a chissle or flat head screw driver and knock it counter clockwise. Then go to the store an buy some heli coils, there a real easy do it yourself dealio. | ||
| Twowheeldream |
Spiderman... did the dremel trick already, it just buggerd up the head even more when i tried to get it out... Sleez... already thought about the derby cover, stripped the head on that one too the last person to work on it had to have put these bolts in WAY too tight. there only supposed to be 6-8 foot lbs. grrrr.. (Message edited by TwoWheelDream on July 11, 2005) | ||
| Sleez |
i'd carefully drill/grind the heads off the offending bolts to get the covers off then remove the threaded parts later on the bench. by the way...you were in the process of removing the covers or reinstalling them? i am assuming removing? (Message edited by sleez on July 11, 2005) | ||
| Twowheeldream |
ok... gotta go buy a drill removing... already drained the primary/tranny (Message edited by TwoWheelDream on July 11, 2005) | ||
| Sleez |
remember to take your time, little bites at a time, try not to drill the cover itself. | ||
| Twowheeldream |
yeah... thats the problem i was having with the dremel.... was going to cut the head right off... but there wasnt enough room to do it without cutting into the cover | ||
| Sleez |
that's what i would do and have done. carefully drill the heads out, take the bolts out that will come out and then you might have enough material to remove with a vise grips or easy out, then get new hardware and good to go, good luck!!! nice bike by the way...kinda partial to the 97 'bolts, with the bronze frame and wheels. (Message edited by sleez on July 11, 2005) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
TWD, Done this to my bike twice, maybe thrice, can't remember -the derby cover that is. Anyway a 1/4" drill takes the heads off the derby cover bolts, if I recall correctly, as long as you just drill 'til the head pops loose there is plenty of exposed bolt to remove with a small pair of locking pliers. Once the the cover is off I have usually been surprised at how easy the remaining portion was to remove. Probably the same with the primary cover, long bits of hardware there. Get the chrome hex heads instead of more of those stupid torx things, they are much less likely to strip. -Mike (Message edited by littlebuggles on July 11, 2005) (Message edited by littlebuggles on July 11, 2005) | ||
| Road_thing |
Ah, a chance to recite one of my favorite haikus: Damn these torx head bolts Invention of the devil I always strip them rt | ||
| Steve_mackay |
I used a 9/32" drill bit on both mine and Kinger's covers. Takes less than 30 seconds a bolt. I also swapped the stupid torx screws with stainless allen bolts. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Just Drill it out, pull it with a pair of locking pliers and its out. | ||
| Tramp |
"then one of the inspection cover screws strips out the head.... now what? anyone got any ideas?" OK- I was going to keep outta this one, but you DID say PLEASE (...help): no inspection cover screw strips out it's own head... takes a human being to pull THAT one off. sounds like two stripped fastener heads on one machine.... Maybe you should be more careful in regard to fastener head hygiene and correct tool size, pressure, etc. ... just trying to help.... | ||
| Chainsaw |
Did the same thing. Drilled a small pilot hole and used an easy out. Took 5 minutes. Surprisingly easy. | ||
| Bomber |
those things are made out of grade 2 cheese -- I stripped a number of em as well (tho tramp is right, they don't, quite, strip themselves) do yourself a favor -- get a pocketful of SS allen heads and replace em (don't ferget the never-seize) | ||
| Dave |
Too late now but the first time I took off the derby cover of my S3, I had one stuck fastener. Someone suggested snugging down the other 3 then trying the stubborn one once more. That technique worked for me that time. DAve | ||
| Tramp |
I've always replaced 'em w/stainless allens on customer bikes, as a matter of course. SO cheape and easy, what a difference! On the derbies, the pressure of the convex derby itself it what holds 'em so ridiculously snug ...not the best design. I've found that using a li'l bit o' silicone goop around the shoulders of the fasteners allows them enough 'bushing' to fight this convexity-based jam, and they come out very nicely the next time. also, a nice, fat bead of silicone about the derby's edges helps give some 'budge' upon later removal | ||
| Djkaplan |
I stripped a derby cover torx too! It was surprisingly easy to drill out. The Harley chrome allen head fasteners were the first thing I ever bought for my bike. I also use thread lubricant to keep them easy to remove. | ||
| Tramp |
the thread lube won't make much difference, as the tension originates in the convex derby pushing against the fastener shoulders. It's technically a spring pushing against them. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Don't harsh my buzz, man. | ||
| Tramp |
sorry- hey thread lube ALWAYS does something good, unless Loc-tite is indicated.... I still use anti-sieze on those bolts regardless, as the mating of unlike metals would foster aluminum oxides... | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Honestly, I don't use lock-tite on anything on my bike. I just nut 'n bolt the bike when I clean 'er. 3-4 times a season year. | ||
| Tramp |
what is this "clean"....? (please loctite your caliper bolts...for ME?) | ||
| Rick_a |
I have some stuff lock-tited and safety-wired. I just use the stock fasteners on those deals. I torque 'em to spec...if one sticks it is drilled out. If the holes get corroded to dust I'll heli-coil 'em. No biggie. | ||
| Tramp |
yeah- great point  . why spend a few cents and a few seconds to preserve the integrity of the original alloy threads when you can spend extra time helicoiling 'em later. lemme get this straight.... you DO use safety-wire, but you DON'T lube any threads? did anyone at MMI ever mention that thread lube gives a more accurate torque reading? running safety-wire without lubricating the threads of unlike metal fasteners is kinda like putting a number plate and sponsor stickerson a vulcan classic. | ||
| Rick_a |
After several teardowns of many components, only one has stripped out...the primary where the clutch cable threads. That heli-coil will probably outlast the rest of the cover. Nothing else has ever given me a problem, and this is a bike that gets ridden every day rain or shine and has spent most of its life outdoors. If I had a need or problem, I would solve it. | ||
| Tramp |
true 'nuff. mine gets more weather than a lawn jockey, and while i'm anal with customer bikes, well, mine gets neglected with few issues. thanks for yer sense of humor | ||
| Twowheeldream |
ok guys... thank you all for the help. went out and bought a drill and came back to drill out the offending clutch cover bolt only to have the other 3 strip out as well.... just drilled them all off and put in new ones. if i learned anything from this experience its to buy all new bolts each time. I didnt have any trouble with the primary cover bolts at all... thankfully. again, thanks for all the hints, tips, and help by the way, after drilling the heads, they spun out using my fingers. (Message edited by twowheeldream on July 15, 2005) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Also, next time you remove those derby cover nuts, give each 5 turns or so then keep circling in a a 12 - 6 - 9 -3 oclock pattern. Don't just remove one completely, then move on too the next one, it gets the cover crooked and binds the screw. That was my first Buell adventure  Fond memories. |
