Author |
Message |
Bcordb3
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 02:33 pm: |
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I want to buy a torque wrench and looking for some input onto what brand, size, what I should look for when making this purchase. |
Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 02:41 pm: |
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don't buy the cheapest you can find -- beam types, where you read the value off a scale while the wrench "bends" can be very accurate, but tough to read while standing on your head me, I like the kind that go "click" when you've reached the torque value you dialed up -- I've got a couple of Craftsman brand that work well, were affordable, and have held their accuracy -- as for size, I've got three (I know, I'm a tool hoe) . . . . 1/2 drive, lemme see, big torque numbers (like up to couple hunnert, if memory serves) . . . .3/8 drive, aroun 10 to 80 lt lb, this one gets the most use . . . . 3/8 drive in inch pounds . . . . not used often, but needed from time to time any torque wrench needs calibration from time to time, though -- they ain't good forever without seeing to |
M1combat
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 02:43 pm: |
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There are more in/lb torque values required on an XB than I like. You'll need both, but get the ft/lb first as "most" of the in/lb values are large enough to be converted to ft/lb if need be. |
Henrik
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 02:54 pm: |
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Keep in mind though, that the accuracy of a torque wrench drops off rapidly, if used for torque values too far towards the limit. AFAIR the lower 20% are quite unusable if any accuracy is desired. I bought an SK for my medium ft/lbs values and a cheapo 1/4" for my in/lbs values - don't trust that one much, but it's for a range where my finely tuned manu-torqueometer helps me evaluate what I'm doing Henrik |
Dbird29
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 03:05 pm: |
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Just about buggered the Primary Case cover with the old ft/lbs instead of in/lbs. Thank god I was doing a 2 stage sequence of torquing, caught it before something snapped or went soft. DBird |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 03:59 pm: |
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I have a Craftsman 1/2 drive torque wrench. Every one I know that has one like mine has broken the locking collar on it - mine broke the first time I used it. The wrench still works, but I have to tape the handle down. It's not covered by the Craftsman lifetime warranty, btw. |
Dsergison
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 04:03 pm: |
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I like kd tools micrometer torque wrenches. http://www.kd-tools.com/ |
Cataract2
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 04:22 pm: |
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I'm a big fan of Craftman tools. I have a click torque wrench for the big stuff (20ft/lbs and up) and the bend torque wrench for the low stuff (1ft/lb to 20ft/lb.) Both are Craftsman and both work like a charm. |
Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 04:47 pm: |
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DJ -- now know someone that hasn't busted the locking ring . . . mebbe cuz there's a 90 pound weakling hiding in this middle-aged guys body? ;-} (Message edited by bomber on July 13, 2005) |
Crashm1
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 10:14 pm: |
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How often are you going to use it? I have five right now. A 250, 100, 5 to 50 an inch lb and an inch lb beam for pinion bearings and such. They are all Snap-On, pricey but good and they hold up to constant daily use. Bomber and Henrick are right about the accuracy dropping off at the lower and upper ends of the range. Don't use a torque wrench to loosen a fastener, they get really inaccurate really fast. Mine get recalibrated yearly because I'm paranoid and I use them a lot. |
Bcordb3
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 10:46 pm: |
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Great input, I appreciate every response. It is looking like I will need two (inch lbs, and foot lbs). Must agree not to be the cheapies and go for a quality tool. |
Dbird29
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 12:59 am: |
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And read the manual correctly. That sneaking in a in/lb in the middle of ft/lb procedures is tricky.
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Rocketman
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 06:24 am: |
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Snap-On - pricey but a once in a lifetime purchase if you don't abuse them. There's one thing I'll offer about torque wrenching though. There are many instances where you simply can't get the wrench at the fastener and that leaves one scratching ones head. Thankfully I'm a pro fesh on al and know what to do next Rocket |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 09:22 am: |
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ROcker knows the secret of the german torque value, I'm thinkin |
Road_thing
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 10:40 am: |
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I don't speak German. But I recognize three increasing levels of non-instrumental torque measurement: 1) "Finger" tight: self explanatory. 2) "White-Knuckle" tight: pull on the wrench till your knuckles turn white. 3) "Break-Wind" tight: pull on the wrench till... well, you get the picture! rt |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 11:04 am: |
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Thang -- you can, I'm certain, set fasteners to the Duetcsh Setting -- just get it Gutentite. |
Rick_a
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 01:00 pm: |
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I've got a clicker for big torque values, and a couple beam types from NAPA for everything else. I like that they aren't as delicate and can be "calibrated" quite easily. Look at some pre-shovel service manuals. Torque values are mostly described as tight, snug, or light. |
Johnnylunchbox
| Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 01:09 pm: |
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Another thing with the click type torque wrenches (at least with the craftsman that I have) is that you should always zero the torque meter when you are storing the wrench. In other words, don't put it away still dialed in for whatever torque number. I believe you can ensure the accuracy for longer service life by zeroing it out when you're done using it. |
Twowheeldream
| Posted on Friday, July 15, 2005 - 01:03 am: |
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just bought a 25-250 in lb tourque wrench from sears for 65 bucks. you can use that for most of the lower range ft. lb jobs if you have to go from ft lbs to in lbs in the same job and you dont want to do the math... just use the newton meter settings |
Knotrider
| Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 11:37 pm: |
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i've got 4, two beam types that i never use and two snap-on clickers (in.lbs/ft.lbs)that i use exclusively.and calibrate annually. |
Prez
| Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 02:25 pm: |
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hey bcord...i have a snap-on digital...now it was quite expensive...i payed 240..but i got 100+ off the normal price.it's good to be friends with the snap on man....it goes from 60 inch lbs..to 100 ft lbs...and it has newton meters also...so u figure it takes the place of atleast 3,if not 4 clicker style torque wrenches..so the initial cost is a little steep,..but in the long run its worth the money...just my two cents...OH and ROADTHING...u forgot goodentite....prez |
Loki
| Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 02:56 pm: |
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From a trained, former professional, calibrator/repair tech. 1) always zero it when storing it 2) cycle the thing at the current setting prior to using it 3) DO NOT use it to break the torque on a bolt/nut. You will invalidate any and all calibrations of it. 4) Normally they are only calibrated for the righty-tighty direction 5) If your number is in the lower 15 or upper 15 percent of the range. Find another wrench! 6) Spend the money on the wrench and on an annual certification/check. If you plan on using it alot. 7) Hand placement on the tool is considered critical. Only on the handle and pull the tool towards you. Never push it away. *) We had a 30/60 day calibration schedule for the daily use. A yearly for those stored for deployed use. |
Loki
| Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 02:59 pm: |
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btw: My Craftsman clickers seemed to hold thier cals real well. I check/certify my buddies and he did mine on the same weekends. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Monday, July 18, 2005 - 09:06 am: |
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From a trained, former professional, calibrator/repair tech. Thanks. I never knew about #7! |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, July 18, 2005 - 09:31 am: |
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i'd be in a heapa trouble if I was buds with the SnapON man -- one shudders to think |