| Author | Message | ||
     Nooner |
I am getting a '97 S1 back on the road and would love to reference the Buellistic 101 files if anyone is able to share. Thank you! Patrick | ||
| 34nineteen |
http://www.purpony.net/lafayettes-knowledge.html Buellistic was always ready to share his 101 with someone in need, but he never really went beyond with sharing all of them with someone just because. I had asked him a few times for all of his 101 files but he basically said to "just ask when you need it". I think after he passed, someone tried to make a compilation of all of his files from other members, but not sure what ever happened with that. You could probably do a search for "101" on here and find most of them spread throughout the forum. (Message edited by 34nineteen on May 05, 2022) | ||
| Victory |
Ill post what I managed to save. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++ Subject: Oil Pump drive gear Class 101 <010408> BUELLers: THIS REQUIRES A LOT MORE INFORMATION TO DO !!! ie: This "INFO" is in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL ... Have to find TDC on each cylinder to take valve spring pressure off cams on each cylinder ... Rocker arms have to be removed properly and then re-torqued ... Cam gear cover has to be remove properly any then re-torque'ed ... The nut that holds the oil pump drive gear on the pinion shaft has to be removed and then re-torque'ed ... The cams have to be timed by use of the marks on the cams ... And last the engine timing has to be set ... HIGHLY RECOMEND THIS "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT " BE DONE !!! THIS "GEAR" SHOULD BE CHECKED AND/OR UP-DATED EVERYTIME THE CAM GEAR COVER IS REMOVED !!! EVEN to the BLAST !!! Part Number for the High Performance Oil Pump Gear(BRONZE) PN 26391-06(BUELLs are HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES) ... THIS GEAR ONLY CAME IN THE XB MODELS FROM 2006-2008 ... This OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR got re-invented because the XB OIL PUMP had more drag because it pushed more oil through the XB oil system to help cool the engine(THIS ALSO HAPPENS IF YOU DO NOT GET YOUR OIL UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE BEFORE RUNNING YOUR ENGINE HARD) ... Highly recomend you get a FACTORY SERVIVE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR and MODEL ... Checked my DRIVE GEAR at 60K miles and looked like brand new, "BUT" "i" still replaced it with the 26391-06 gear ... Replaced it because a RACING(was suplied by aftermarket suppliers for EVO SPORTSTER RACING ENGINES before 2006) part is all ways better than the OEM part ... IMHO, my OEM gear lasted because "i" have a return line oil filter which means any metal in the oil goes through only one side of the oil pump for a reduction of 50% oil pump drag and "i" get my engine oil up to operating temperature before running my enginw hard ... Other wise any metal goes through the return side of the oil pump to the oil tank, from the oil tank to the feed side of the oil pump, and THEN to the oil filter ... "ALSO" my PRIMARY CHAIN has always been adjusted correctly at 3/4 inch on the chain tight spot(NEVER TOO TIGHT) and my DRIVE BELT has always been correctly adjusted ... Used H-D 20W-50 DYNO OIL for first 60K (changing every 2K miles), then went to H-D 20W-50 SYN3(change every 3K) to the current mileage as of the last ride of 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride ... "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!" In BUELLing LaFayette(aka BUELListic) Ljenne73c@verizon.net ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ BUELLers: Here is a little PART NUMBER ad OIL PUMP "INFO" ... OIL PUMP, complete PN 26204-91, in EVO SPORTSTER engines for the production run of 1991 to 2000 and BUELL engines to 1997 ... THE TROUBLE WITH THE -91 OIL PUMP WAS WHEN YOU RAN YOUR ENGINE HARD IN THE HIGHER RPM's AND BACKED OFF REAL QUICK, THE BOTTOM END WOULD LOAD UP WITH OIL ... The -98 oil pump cured this(BUELL engines fom 1998 to 2002) ... OIL PUMP,complete PN 26204-98, in BUELL(EVO SPORTSTER) engines from 1998 to end of production run of TUBE FRAME BUELLs in 2002 ... In 2000 this oil pump came in the SPORTSTER engines as PN 26204-91A(true HARLEY-DAVIDSON Part Number) ... The "UP-DATE" was a larger GEROTOR(gear)SET,return and a cam gear cavity drain hole in the top of the oil pump body ... This made the OIL PUMP Body a little longer ... This was done because the TUBE FRAMES engines when rappedly backed off from a hard run, the bottom end would over fill with oil ... This larger RETURN GEAR cured the botom end over fill problem and a return hole was also added to the top of the oil pump to get the excess oil out of the cam gear cavity which had been known about for years ... THIS IS THE OIL PUMP YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE IF IN THE PRODUCTION RUN FROM 1998 to 2002 ... The 26357-02B oil pump is even better( if you have to or want to change your current oil pump, UP-DATE to this oil pump) ... OIL PUMP,complete PN 26357-02B came in rhe XB engines(up-dated to the "B" after 2002) and ending in 2007(2008 XB engines have the XBRR style oil pump which was also done to the SPORTSTER engines) ... This "UP-DATE" was done because the XB "HEADS" /cylinders are srouded by the Hi-Tech XB Frame and the engine runs hotter, "BUT" the PLUS on this oil pump is it also helps keep your engine cooler when you run it hard ... That is why the XB's have a "FAN" to help cool the engine, "BUT" this oil pump also helped cool the engine by getting the hot oil out of the engine and back to the oil tank(oil in a air cooled engineis is also used to cool it) and increase the oil feed to the engine ... You read the PART NUMBER this way: The first two nubers indicate the "GROUP"(ie: oil pump) ... The next three numbers the "PART" within the GROUP ... The dash XX(ie: -91, -98, and -02) the "FIRST" year used ... The CAPATIAL LETTER(ie: the "A") when "PRODUCT IMPROVED"(ie: A the first time, B the second time, and so on) ... If the Part Number has a -Y(in some cases), this indicates BUELL specific and then a capital letter(ie: A) for when product improved ... JUST A LITTLE ADD ON "PLUS" below !!! The NEW BUELL "PART NUMBERING SYSTEM" has numbers like L0501.T and is what "i" refer to as THE "BUELLschitte" NUMBERING SYSTEM and is by design confusing everyone that knows the HARLEY-DAVIDSON Parts Numbering System ... This part is a ISOLATOR,front(front motor mount) and knowing what it looks like and is, it "RETRO FITS" to the front head isolator on the TUBE FRAME,BLAST, and "BIG TWIN"(FL/FX platforms) front engine mount(HD PN 16207-79D has had 4 product improvements so far) ... "SO" when "i" go to the HARLET-DAVIDSON/buell Dealer the name of the game is to deal with the HARLEY-DAVIDSON Parts Persons with HARLEY-DAVIDSON Part Numbers so they do not become BRAIN DEAD when talking to them ... "PLUS" the PN 16207-79D is a heavier duty part because the "BIG CUBIC INCH" BIG TWINS were ripping these apart like the BUELL Part, "BUT" this will not happen with the -79D BIG TWIN "RETRO FIT" Part ... To top that off, in 2011 the BIG TWIN front motor mount was up-dated to two SoftTail isolators for the front motor mount because -79D could not hold the 105 CI engines ... Now after reading all this and you still have questions, feel free to ask ??? In BUELLing LaFayette(aka BUELListic) Ljenne73c@verizon.net ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++ "OIL SYSTEM Class 101 in a Tube Frame BUELL" BUELLers: YOU NEVER TOP OFF THE OIL TANK WHEN THE ENGINE HAS NOT RUN IN A COUPLE OF DAYS OR THE ENGINE IS COLD, WHY DO YOU ASK, WELL THAT IS BECAUSE THE OIL DRAINS DOWN INTO THE BOTTOM END WHICH IS A SEMI-WET SUMP SYSTEM ... Checking the "BLAST" and SPORTSTER engine oil is of the same idea ... IF YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH OIL, IT COULD BE VERY WELL THAT YOU ARE PUTTING TOO MUCH OIL IN THE OIL TANK AND THE ENGINE WILL GET RID OF THE EXCESSIVE OIL UNTIL ENGINE REACHES ITS HAPPY LEVEL !!! That means it will blow out the OEM head breathers into the air cleaner and on to your right leg, PLUS it will weep out the OEM push in oil cap or any other place the oil can get out !!! If enough oil gets in the valve spring pockets and to the valve guides, the engine will suck oil out the valve guides and you have a "SMOKER" ... IT ALSO COSTS HORSE POWER CHURNING OIL AND MAKING AIR BUBBLES !!! OTHER CONSIDERATIONS ARE A BAD MOTOR SPROCKET OIL SEAL(allows the engine oil to drain into drain into the transmission which accounts for excessive oil in the transmission), BAD VALVE GUIDE OIL SEALS(smoke will puff out exhaust when shifting), BAD OIL CONTROL RINGS(you will have a smoker when this happens), OIL LEAKS THAT MARK YOUR SPOT ON THE GROUND(ie: base gaskets, primary cover gasket, transmission drain plug "o" ring, push rod seals, rocker arm gaskets, cam cover gasket, oil pump gasket, transmission counter shaft seal, and if you pinch you transmission breather hose your transmission oil will back out your clutch cable from the pressure from the engine to transmission) ... The transmission BREATHER should be run into a CATCH CONTAINER for "SAFETY" !!! IF YOU GET OIL ON YOUR REAR TIRE YOU WILL, IF STILL A LIVE YOU WILL UNDERSTAND WHY !!! HOW TO CHECK THE ENGINE OIL, CLASS 101 in a BUELL, by the numbers: 1) To start this checking of the engine oil as the OWNER"S MANUAL States ... Normal engine operating temperature to ENSURE OIL IS HOT AND AT NORMAL OPERATING OIL TEMPERATURE IS ACHIEVED ... Then you will have to have someone help you hold the motorcycle STRAIGHT UP with engine still running , remove the seat and check the DIP STICK OIL LEVEL on REMOVAL which is will be its heightat normal operation ... If you wipe it off and check again you will find the level will be a little lower because oil levelin the oil tank has already started to drop ... This means you get one chance to get the actual oil level ... This means if you have to TOP OFF to get the oil level to the UPPER MARK on the you then will have to take a ride and check again until you get the oil level correct ... Then you can check the oil level on the side stand on level ground without help ... You will have to mark the DIP STICK for checking on the side stand ... The STOCK oil capacity of a "TUBE FRAME" BUELL is 2 1/2 quarts(as it came from BMC with a small oil filter and stock oil tank) ... Still running a OEM small size oil filter fill with 4oz. of oil before installing, larger filter put in 8 oz. ... BLAST is 2.0 quarts with OEM oil filter(fill oil filter before installing) ... Before "i" change oil "i" get the oil level in the oil tank correct then drain ... Then "i" measure what drained out and note(only have to do this once) same so that "i" put the same amount back in so there is no guessing(possible over or under filling) ... Learned this from dealing with metric cars that have say a 4.3 QT capacity ... FILTERS: OEM size, Wal-Mart SuperTech ST4967(OEM BLAST) or largest that can be used is Wal-Mart SuperTech ST8A,"BUT" WAL-MART no longer has its own oil filter brand(4967 and 8A are the filter numbers you need to remember) ... Have 111,819.6 miles on my 1997 S3T as of the last ride and have used these filters for years and "i" have a return line oil filter ... They are were "BLACK" in color !!! 2) The "FIRST" time "i" changed the engine oil "i" got the oil level to the correct level at operating temperature and start the oil draining with the engine running, then turn the engine off ... After the oil tank is empty "i" measure the amount of oil removed which will be the correct amount to put back into the oil tank ... This means "i" can then change the oil now and put the correct amount of oil in the oil tank ... You will have to recheck it to make sure it is at the correct level after changing the oil by checking after a oil warm up ride ... Early on "i" found out the hard way NOT to take you seat off with engine cold(especially in cold weather)and start the engine as it will blow the PUSH IN OIL CAP out like a rocket ... This is because the oil returns to the oil tank faster than the oil is removed !!! And it also weeps around the oil cap so "i" PRODUCT IMPROVED it an went to a after market screw on oil cap ... 3) Go for a ride to get the whole engine up to operating temperature ... 4) When you get back, leave the ENGINE RUNNING(operating temperature) with the bike on the SIDE STAND(on level ground), you check the OIL ... When "i" first set this up "i" had some one help me and checked the oil as in the HAND BOOK and FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for the full mark on the dip stick ... It is un-safe to do this without help so "i" do the on the side stand check ... If “i” ride every day the oil gets checked once a week, if not after every ride usually is a 100 miles plus ... WHERE THE OIL LEVEL IS WHEN YOU REMOVE THE "DIP STICK" IS WHERE THE OIL LEVEL IN THE CLOSED SYSTEM is with the AIR SPACE... Mark the "DIP STICK" as you now have the REFERENCE LEVEL(established after a oil change)for your OIL TANK ... When you remove the DIP STICK and try checking again you will get a false reading as the oil level will drop when you open the system by removing the DIP STICK ... YOU WILL HAVE TO RE-CHECK AFTER ANOTHER RIDE !!! 5) You must NEVER fill the OIL TANK past this REFERENCE LEVEL(operating temperature, engine running, on level ground, and on the side stand) ... 6) Now if you add anything to OIL SYSTEM that will increase the OIL SYSTEM CAPACITY(ie: larger oil filter, return line oil filter, BUELL "OR" AFTER MARKET OIL TANK(or HOME MADE), you can never fill pass the REFERENCE LEVEL MARK ("AIR SPACE") ... 7) "IF YOU DO, THE EXCESS OIL WILL COME OUT OF THE ENGINE (ie: head breathers and/or weep out of base gaskets, PLUS motor sprocket oil seal) !!! THE OIL TANK HAS TO HAVE A"AIR SPACE" and this is what the REFERENCE LEVEL gives the OIL TANK !!! THE ABOVE APPLIES TO ALL "Sportsters, "TUBE FRAME BUELLs', "BLASTS", and XBs !!! IMHO, Harley-Davidson SYN3 is the best oil to run in both the engine and transmission which can be bought at any Harley-Davidson Dealer ... "WHY" in the TRANSMISSION, well if the motor sprocket oil seal goes bad just where do you think the transmission fluid is going to go ??? The reason for this concern is because the pressure in the engine while running causes the "GASKETS" ie: base, rocker arms, and cam gear cover to "WEEP" also has the pressure to PUSH or SUCK engine or transmission oil back and forth by a crank shaft oil seal which is or going bad ... THE BEST WAY TO CHANGE YOUR OIL AND GET THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF OIL BACK IN IT IS GET THE OIL TO CORRECT(CORRECT AIR SPACE)LEVEL ON THE DIP STICK ... WITH THE ENGINE AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE AFTER A RIDE WITH THE ENGINE STILL RUNNING PULL THE DRAIN PLUG AND TURN THE ENGINE OFF ... AFTER ALL THE OIL HAS DRAINED OUT OF THE OIL TANK measure the amount and put that amount back in oil tank(note: "i" only change the oil filter(s) once a year) ... If you have questions, feel free to ask them ??? MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! The best advise "i" can give you is to get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and "PARTS BOOK" for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ... Call Al at www.AmericanSportBike.com ... In BUELLing LaFayette(aka BUELListic) Ljene73c@verizon.net ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++ BUELLers: My HELP "INFO" IS FOR FACTORY OEM COMPONENTS, "BUT" aftermarket stuff can be IMPORVISED to be TORQUED CORRECTLY !!! READ ON !!! EXHAUST SYSTEM ASSEMBLY "Class 101" <120512> TORQUE'ING COMPOUND ON "ALL" THREADS(High Temperature Copper Compound Formula is the BEST) and anywhere there is metal to metal contact !!! NAPA and ACE HARDWARE have it !!! Gasket,exhaust part PN 17048-98 are the gaskets to use(the PN 65324-83B are "CRAP" because they compress into the exhaust port closing it up, "PLUS" they are hard to install and do not last as long) !!! IF YOU HAVE A 1999 OR LATER BUELL (fuel injection)THE -98 GASKET SEALS BETTER AND THE REAR HEADER GASKET SEALING IS VERY IMPORTANT BECAUSE IF IT LEAKS IT WILL MAKE THE O2 SENSOR LOOK BAD BY CAUSING A O2 SENSOR CODE(at speed comes on, slow down goes out) AND/OR MAKE YOUR ENGINE RUN POORLY BY CONFUSING THE O2 SENSOR and the DEALERS change a lot of 02 sensors which are not bad !!! Another thing(s) that is not understood is that all the sensors must be CLEAN and GOOD, INTAKE SEALS GOOD, AND the REAR HEADER EX. GASKET GOOD ... IF NOT YOU ARE WASTING YOU TIME TRYING TO CHECK(CORRECT) THE "ECM" MAPING !!! If you are using a FUEL INJECTED HEADER on an M2 you will need K&N PN 85-21686, 02 sensor hole plug ... LEAKING INTAKE SEALS ARE EVEN WORSE ON A FUEL INJECTION BUELLs !!! Assemble everything(complete exhaust system) on the bike, tightening everything "FINGER TIGHT" (about 5 inch pounds) from studs(equal threads each stud) of the REAR EXHAUST PORT to the END of of the EXHAUST SYSTEM ... THE ENGINE IS A STRESS MEMBER OF THE FRAME WHICH CAUSES STRESS ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM !!! With the OEM style mounting the header/muffler connection should be rubber mounted !!! Will send how RACE Header/Muffler is mounted if you request it ... As far as shaking the exhaust system as you assemble it is counter productive as you have to move it enough just to get everything to line up ... Max. torque on exhaust header studs 6 ft. lbs. ... Do 2 ft. lbs.(rear to front), then 4 ft. lbs.(rear to front), finishing with 6 ft.lbs (rear to front). ... Then working to end of exhaust system per torque specs in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL which are, 2000 HEADER ASSEMBLY SUPPORT MOUNT upper eng/support nut/bolt 30-33 ft.lbs. and lower support/muffler nut/bolt 22-24 ft.lbs and the REAR muffler mount nuts/bolts 22-25 ft.lbs., then the muffler/header clamp 50-55 ft.lbs. ... If you have an aftermarket exhaust system the only the specifications for the two exhaust header nuts will be correct ... If you have the torque specification that came with the system from the head on should be used ... Other wise you will have to consult a OLDER FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and go by the General Torque Specification Sheet which tell you the different hardness of metal fasteners for their correct torque ... You do not have to re-torque the exhaust system once you have put it together correctly !!! "AND" last but not lest, CHECKING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM every 5K miles is part of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE that is NOT in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL ... THIS STILL MEANS YOU DO NOT RE-TORQUE ANY THING, ie: if it is not loose, everything is "AOK" !!! This has worked for me for the 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride on my 1997 S3T and “i” have never broken a OEM header exhaust stud or cracked a header, "BUT" the rear muffler mounting tabs broke once on a used 99 muffler "i" did a PRODUCT IMPROVE on because the previous owner had be over stressed the rear muffler mounts before "i" got it ... THE OEM HEADER HEAD STUDS WILL STAND THE TEST AND LAST IF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS ASSEMBLED AND TORQUE'ED CORRECTLY !!! Recommend that you get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and "PARTS BOOK" for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ... For "SAFETY" you should run the transmission breather hose to a catch container because if you ever get oil on the rear tire you will understand why !!! QUESTIONS, feel free to ask ??? MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL EXHAUST SYSTEM BE WITH YOU !!! THE BEST ADVISE "i" CAN GIVE YOU IS TO GET THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL AND "PARTS BOOK" FOR YOUR YEAR/MODEL BUELL... In BUELLing LaFayette(aka BUELListic) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++ Subject: <120311> MACHINIST RULERS for adjusting TUBE FRAME, BLAST, and XB PRIMARY CHAINS !!! BUELLers: These MACHINIST RULERS are what "i" use for measuring what ever ... On PRIMARY CHAINS, one is where it was found at and the other is for setting it where it should be(ie: it can be put back) ... "PLUS" they can be used for a multitude of measurements ... In BUELLing LaFayette(aka BUELListic) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Subject: CAR BODY STAND LEFT FOOT PEG <> BUELLers: Top view of CAR BODY STAND under RIGHT FOOT PEG !!! Same applies to left foot peg placement ... In BUELLing LaFayette ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++ Subject: Buell Forum: Clutch grenade plate victim "SPRING PLATE aka GRENADE PLATE" <100510> BUELLers: Picture of GRENADE PLATE, plus related info and what a bad SPRING PLATE looks like !!! http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/5 63886.html?1274364920 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++ Subject: CLUTCH COVER TORQUE'ing SEQUENCE <100715> BUELLers: Take your new primary gasket and lay it on a piece of card board and trace ... As you remove the allan screws punch the through the card board where came off ... This way everything goes back the way it came apart(very important if some screws are longer than others ... DO NOT PUT ANY GASKET SEALER ON GASKET !!! As you see in Figure 6-4 some allen screws are longer than others, so this is why !!! This is the "TORQUE SEQUENCE" for the PRIMARY COVER(there is one for the cam gear cover "BUT" not the PRIMARY COVER and "i" wonder "WHY" ) allan screws(3/16") ... Converted 80 to 110 in.lbs. to 6 to 9 ft.lbs. ... "i" use 7 ft.lbs. as MAXIMUM torque which IMHO is tight enough ... First sequence of 1 thru 13 is 2 ft.lbs. ... Second sequence of 1 thru 13 is 4 ft.lbs. ... Third sequence of 1 thru 13 is 7 ft.lbs. ... Primary INSPECTION COVER SCREWS 3 ft.lbs.(5/16" allen) ... CLUTCH INSPECTION COVER SCREWS 6 ft.lbs.(T-27) ... ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++ Subject: Buell Forum: PCV Clutch Tool "BEST IMPROVISED CLUTCH SPRING TOOL" <110419> BUELLers: This is the "BEST" improvised cluth tool "i" have seen todate !!! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/627777.html#POST2033754 Be sure to click on all information highlighted ... In BUELLing LaFayette ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++ Subject: RETAINING CLIP PICTURE, "PLUS" !!! <060426> BUELLers: Picture of clutch plates RETAINING CLIP, CLUTCH PLATE REMOVAL IMPROVISED TOOL, and SPROCKET LOCKING TOOL ... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/193459.html#POST644363 A DOOR HINGE(ie: Home Depot or LOWE'S) with the same dimensions as the SPROCKET LOCKING TOOL will work just as well ... | ||
| Oldog |
Not relevant but Lafayette passed someTime back. I had the good fortune to make his acquaintance, He contributed quite a bit to the board. | ||
| Nooner |
yes - he seems to have left quite the mark. He will always be appreciated, and missed. | ||
| Court |
He was an amazing guy. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Yes he was, always ready to help. |
