| Author | Message | ||
     Magspecial |
Hi everyone. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Here are the symptoms. 1)Ignition in off (1st) position - Clock works. 2)Ignition in center (2nd) position - Clock, tail and brake lights work. I didn't check other lights. 3)Ignition to start/run (3rd) position - Clock stops, lights go out as soon as I turn the key to the start/run position. No change when I push the starter button. Work so far. Checked ignition switch, all fuses, starter relay, kill switch, and starter button and all test okay. Any suggestions on what to do next will be appreciated. | ||
| Buellbum |
you have a bad battery connection. clean battery terminals. | ||
| Magspecial |
I forgot to mention that. The battery and battery connections were the first things I checked. Thank you for the feedback. | ||
| Hawgford |
sounds like the key switch failed. just keep tracing the power back | ||
| Buellbum |
did you check your battery amperage output? any autoparts can do this for you. | ||
| Akbuell |
If your bike is anything like my X-1 (brother with different parents) there are 3 wires to the ignition switch. If so, try bypassing the ignition switch at the connector, and see if things work as they should. If so, the switch is the issue. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| 99cyclone |
My '98 S1W switch has done that intermittently a few times over the years. Each time it has been after the bike has sat for a significant period of time (at least 6 mo). Working the switch a couple times has fixed it, I've assumed it's light corrosion on contacts within the switch. | ||
| Falloutnl |
"If your bike is anything like my X-1 (brother with different parents) there are 3 wires to the ignition switch. If so, try bypassing the ignition switch at the connector, and see if things work as they should. If so, the switch is the issue. Hope this helps, Dave" This is what the problem was on my X1. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
I love tubular keys, but the electrical internals of Harley-Davidson switches are troublesome. 1) Ensure completely turned off. They can stay on and drain your battery. 2) I have had to solder a wire back on the the back of one switch. 3) Spraying plenty of electrical contact cleaner in through the key way and turning multiple times can help. 4) support for wires out the back are week. Wire could be broken some distance from the switch. While at it, With the age, there could be 0.5V to 1.0V voltage drop across the switch and connector. This can cause the stator or voltage regulator to burn out. Clean the connector by pulling apart several times. Use contact cleaner, then coat contacts with White Lithium grease. | ||
| Magspecial |
Thank you everyone for the feedback. Problem solved with a new battery even though the I had changed it two months before. When I first had the problem I checked the battery and it appeared to be okay. When I had it draw tested they said the charge was low but that was all it needed. The battery was new this summer. After receiving the feedback from the forum I had it tested again and was told it needed replaced.... No charge thankfully. Hooked everything up and it works fine. I also ended up replacing the ignition switch. I used a Drag Specialities because the cost is $100+ less than OEM. Technically I think I could have kept the original ignition switch, but the new one gives a more positive engagement. Thanks again. Mike | ||
| Buellbum |
The first rule of auto mechanics is to check the simple stuff FIRST. i knew it was your battery because i had a poor ground connection and it did the exact same thing. i cut a copper penny in-half to make the terminal fit flush on the battery post. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Good thing you happened to catch it this late in the season. You could've parked the bike for winter, found it in spring with a dead battery and gotten stuck paying for another out of pocket. |
