| Author | Message | ||
     Oz_mcd |
Was wondering if anyone knows torque spec for the front hub to wheel on a pm tube wheel. Can’t remember the torque spec for them but remember that they are peened after torqued. | ||
| Two_seasons |
from the 99/00 X1 service manual, pg. 2-10 ...on aluminum P/M wheels, tighten nut until flush to drive pin flat washer (2). Then turn an additional 60 degrees (one flat on nut). Note: I don't think there was much proof reading before these manuals went to print... Get torque specs from several sources before you proceed!  | ||
| Oz_mcd |
Appreciate the response but that is the rotor to carrier torque. I am looking for the torque for the tapered flat Allen bolts On the left side and the counter sunk Allen socket bolts under the rotor carrier that hold the actual hub to the rim. Called pm and they said they don’t have the torque specs for that wheel on file anymore. I thought I had it written down in some of my old notes from when I used to wrench and one of the Buell guys I used to talk to from the factory had given me, but I can’t seem to find it. I don’t think the manual has it anywhere that I can remember because they didn’t want customers to disassemble the wheel hub. But I am powder coating the wheels a transparent clear semi gloss over sanded and scotch brighted brushed look so I wanted to not have them powder over the crack line on the rim to hub matting surface because they will have a tendency crack and spider web right there with the clears. Not as bad on one with a rougher up finish but really badly on polished. Just thought I would give it a try and see if anyone else knows the spec. | ||
| Falloutnl |
There has to be someone on here that knows. If you get no response here, you can also try sending Martin at twinmotorcycles.nl an email. | ||
| Oz_mcd |
Thanks for the help. I’ll try Martin at twin and see if he knows. I’ve bought some parts from him for the rebuild. They seem like super good people. Thanks to all the people on here as well, you guys have all been great and it’s nice to have other people who are like minded to bounce ideas off of. | ||
| Screamer |
You could try contacting PM. | ||
| Jayvee |
Wow, I didn't even realize PM wheels are bolted together. If you have the old style needle torque wrench, they work both ways. If you try to loosen a bolt, wouldn't you get some indication of how tight it is? You wouldn't have to actually loosen it, just see what the highest torque reading it before it breaks loose. Not exact, maybe better than nothing. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to break nuts/bolts loose with a torque wrench, but in this case, if that was your option I'd say maybe use a regular wrench just until you feel it break loose, then try to torque wrench. That should give you a pretty good idea. Plus, after they've been bolted together for most likely the past 20 years, chances are you'll need a bit more torque to loosen them than you would've needed to tighten them. | ||
| 34nineteen |
You may want to make a mark on the two halves to make sure you get them lined up the same as original. They probably are in balance, but no point in rolling the dice. I would also imagine they probably used some sort of bonding agent along with being bolted together. | ||
| Oz_mcd |
Yes they use a high strength lock tight. They also peen the hub in two spots on each bolt hole after they are torqued to the proper spec that is why they did not give you that info in the service manual because if you don’t know what you are doing you can do more harm than good. I just can’t find where I wrote down the original torque spec I got from Buell back in the day. Thought I would try here before going with the generic torque spec for that specific bolt size. Which is 22-29 ft.- lbs. The real problem is that you can strip out the bolts head really easy upon disassembly if you don’t heat the rim and give it a couple of good smacks with an impact driver before trying to remove them. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
One other tip I've heard over time.... if you're trying to break a bolt loose that hasn't been touched in a while, try to break it loose by turning it clockwise first. That way if it starts to deform the head of the bolt, it'll do so in the opposite direction of what you need. | ||
| Screamer |
Breakaway torque readings will typically be much higher than “tightening” torque, especially if a locking agent was used. Not a reliable way to determine assembly torque. | ||
| Normthenomad |
Don’t know if this helps but the wheels on my Victory Hammer are bolted together the same way calls for 25 ft lbs. with thread locker. Just did a set of RC components forged wheels, same torque value. |
