Author |
Message |
Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:17 am: |
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So my old ignition switch have been acting up for past month. First, it started with difficulty inserting and withdrawing the original barrel key. Then, there must have been internal damages because my tail light started intermittently not working even though the key was turned to full ignition and light. I have the Motodynamic integral tail light set. Sometimes I would get full functionality, sometimes I get either left or right only amber turn light and no red, sometimes I get half left/right red, and sometimes no working at all. Then, after overnight or a full day at work, it would be difficult to start, as if the battery was being drained. So instead of going thru HD and about $150 to get a new ignition switch, I got the Drag Specialties switch for about $30. |
Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:21 am: |
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The new switch is 1/2 in longer than original.
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Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:47 am: |
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In an older thread about the ignition switch, it was suggested to use the (de)solder method, so I peeled back the insulation on the new switch to see.
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Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:48 am: |
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I also wanted to check out the original connector and terminals. I used a small screwdriver at the connector's front to depress a retainer and pulled the wire back.
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Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:49 am: |
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Left are the new terminals. Right are the originals. I know they are different but wanted to try to fit, anyway.
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Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:50 am: |
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The length on the new switch interfered with the original bolt's position as down, so I had to turn the bolt up.
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Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:51 am: |
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The final product. Instead of cutting to original length, I just put in a knot and zip tied. Some work was needed to make the new terminals work with the bike's wiring harness, but everything worked. The key turned smoothly and made solid stops. The tail light had full functionality with every turn. I had to jump start the bike, but am sure the new switch will not drain the battery.
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Roderick
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 02:56 am: |
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So I did not use the (de)solder method, just changed out the terminals. I was told that auto stereo shops may have the correct terminals so am going to try that. Roderick |
Upthemaiden
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 08:40 am: |
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Looks good! I've thought about trying to replace mine with an ignition that would take a normal shaped key instead of the cylinder, but wasn't sure what space would allow. |
46champ
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 09:48 am: |
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When my switch went bad on my 99 M2 I replaced it with the switch from my 86 Sportster drag bike. Switch works fine length of the switch housing is the same. |
Spiderman
| Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 12:18 pm: |
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Old tip. File the nub off your barrel key so you can remove the key. Keeps the weight off the switch |
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