| Author | Message | ||
     Cgerb73 |
My 2000 s3, fuel inj. with 40k miles, died on me on my way to work. Eng light lit up 1st. Then further down the rd the speedo dropped to 0 then even further down my tach also dropped to zero and of course, eventually, bike died. 3 miles from work, go figure. eng light code: 23 -injector 1 short to ground/open 16 -battery volt too low 32 -injector 2 short to ground/broken wire 1- I tested the stator per the manual and found both stator leads failed continuity test, meaning they grounded out. 2- resistance between stator leads was .3 ohms 3- Checked the voltage from stator and had between 35-40v ac at 2k rpm. 4- The voltage reg was only putting out 5v dc @ 2k rpm. -So, is the stator bad because of statement #1 even though it still produced voltage as stated in statement #3? -Also, because of statement #4 does that also mean the voltage reg is bad too or can a grounded stator mess voltage output up? I am confused by the stator making the voltage while being grounded. Thanks | ||
| Harleyelf |
First, check the cheap fixes. Is your voltage regulator grounded to the frame? Is the output wire tightly attached? Are any wires loose? Pinched? The stator should not make voltage if the coils are grounded. I would suspect your testing technique. If you have more than 28 volts AC, you should be able to fold it into 14 volts DC. Change the voltage regulator before you pull your primary apart. | ||
| Cgerb73 |
Thanks Harleyelf, I checked all wiring with the voltage reg. and all was good. How I tested continuity for the stator to ground was by putting meter lead to neg battery term. and other meter lead in either of the stator female sockets. Both had a tone from the meter. Checked for ac voltage by placing both meter leads into stator sockets. I ordered a new voltage reg. The only thing I changed was adding heated grips a few weeks ago. Would this have any affect on charging system? | ||
| Hootowl |
Any electrical accessory you add or remove effects the charging system.  The regulator is essentially a voltage divider with an automatically adjusting resistor (a special kind of diode) that maintains the current flow necessary to develop roughly 13 volts at the center of the divider. This is the output point of the regulator. Lowering the current draw on the bike will cause the diode to have to conduct more current in order to maintain that 13 volts at the output. Conversely, increasing the current draw from the bike makes it conduct less. The sum of the currents in the bike and regulator are equal to the current through the resistor in the bottom half of the voltage divider. So if you've got the proper AC input to the regulator, and you're only getting 5 volts out, it means that the regulator is not passing enough current to develop the required voltage across the resistor. As long as all the normal electrical loads on the bike are there, headlight, battery, lights, ECM, etc., there should be enough current in the bike to keep the regulator from trying to dump too much current through the diode. I suspect the regulator is faulty, based on the information you've provided, as it is unable to pass enough current to develop 13 volts (E=I*R) across the resistor. | ||
| Cgerb73 |
Thanks Hootowl, Great explanation. So I am guessing the s3 is capable of handling add-on electrical accessories. It is just coincidence that the voltage reg. quit working at the same time. |
