| Author | Message | ||
     Mike_lee |
tried to find some info on this but could not. First off... engage is clutch lever being let out and disengage is clutch lever being pulled in? I always get these two mixed up. The issue I'm having is, the clutch engages when the lever is nearly all the way out. There is 1/8" at the end of cable/perch. I can pull the clutch in under load and hear the bike rev (clutch disengaging?) so I don't think its dragging. I have adjusted the screw inside the primary a few times. CCW lightly bottoming then 1/4 turn CW, 1/8 turn CW etc... Nothing I do seems to change the engage point on lever. I did read that it could be a frayed cable, bad clutch plates, etc... The bike has 4700 miles on it but, it is possible the PO took the grenade plate out and didn't replace with 3 plates? Think this would cause the lack of adjustment? Can someone explain to my just exactly how the adjustment screw inside the primary works? The X1 engages about 1/2 way. Which, ideally is where I would want the S1. Fluid level is where it should be. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Have you adjusted the cable itself? Its under the rubber bellows in front of the engine, where it drops past the exhaust header. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I have, yes. This is how I got the 1/8" at the lever/perch. also, loosened that up completely before adjusting primary screw. | ||
| S1owner |
You only want a dime to fit between the lever and housing before the clutch engages. Go to the knowledge vault factory service manual adjusting clutch | ||
| Mike_lee |
I have the manual. I must've went through it a dozen times just to make sure I didn't miss anything. But I probably missed something. I'll go over it again but, I don't believe it's something I'm doing. Or not doing rather... Thanks guys | ||
| Upthemaiden |
There's only 2 places to adjust your clutch. The first is the screw under the derby cover that you said you've adjusted multiple times(correct in twisting it until it lightly bottoms out, then twist back a quarter turn, and slightly further if needed to get the lock nut to set in the recess), and then the adjuster in the middle of the cable. You're always supposed to adjust the screw first, then the cable second. If those two aren't fixing it, I think something is going on with your clutch. You could give your cable a good look over, they do give people problems before they break, and that's not something you want to happen when you're miles from home. As far as the grenade plate, I would think removing that and not replacing it would give you the opposite problem. Taking the grenade plate out would give you a gap between your plates and they wouldn't be pressed together with the friction the need to give power to the transmission. The adjustment screw... isn't overly complicated, but is a little hard to explain if you're not familiar with the parts. There's a spring plate that presses all of the plates together giving them friction when the clutch is engaged/lever is out. When you pull the lever, it pulls the cable, which pulls/rotates the outside half of the clutch ramp, which pulls on the nut that your adjuster is threaded into, which pulls that outward, pulling the spring plate out, and relieving the friction on the clutch plates. That's at least what I understand of it, I could have it wrong. It's not too scary, pull your derby cover off and see if the cable is pulling and expanding the ramp properly. If it is, pull the primary cover off and make a spring compressor out of a 3" pvc coupler and a 4" metal bar(at least 1/4" thick) and pull it apart to see if the plates look ok. If you're pulling that off, you'll likely need a new primary gasket and shifter seal. As far as engaged/disengaged, I believe you're right, but I always have to stop and think about them as well. Pulling in the clutch lever disengages the clutch, letting the lever go will engage the clutch. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Thats good info. Thank you for explaining that  I wonder if im taking the adjustment screw in far enough. What happens if i go too far? If i dont go far enough, then back it out, im not really doing anything, correct? I remember pulling the clutch lever in 3 times after the 1/4 turn CW so im fairly certain its pulling the ramp. Once i get my rear stand back, ill do it again. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Loosen the cable adjust. Pull the outer ramp piece and spring like when you adjust the screw. Physically push the cable end and it's arm towards the rear of the bike to take all cable slack. Adjust the screw and install the plate/spring. Adjust the cable. | ||
| Gusm2 |
Is your primary chain correctly adjusted also? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"What happens if i go too far? If I dont go far enough, then back it out, im not really doing anything, correct? " It'll stop. The threaded part is attached to a bearing and will spin all day on it's own. When you turn that adjuster counter clockwise you're sandwiching the clutch ramp between the adjuster and the nut you can see under the derby cover. Don't force it, but twist it until it stops, it'll stop just like when you're screwing a nut onto a bolt. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I guess i never checked the primary chain. I just assumed the PO, since he put the engine back together, and its running good, that he knew what he was doing. I normally dont assume. Thanks Maiden.... that clarifys things. | ||
| Terrible |
Let me ask this. Did the PO install an extra disc clutch. My S1 has one that the PO put in and it play hell getting the clutch adjusted. Following the manual was no help.Just kept adjusting the screw until I was happy. | ||
| Ebutch |
Mine was changing every time I adjusted it was driving me nuts.Looked at clutch lever apart found it was woubled out at pivet from wear & replaced end of of clutch problems.  | ||
| Ebutch |
 | ||
| Ebutch |
PS grenade plate never had a problem 3 Buells 250,000 miles no exploding grenade plates !!!!!!!!!  | ||
| Mike_lee |
Im not sure what exactly the PO did. He said he upgraded the weak points on the bike with the clutch being one. I just assumed he removed the grenade plate and replaced it with 2 fibers and a steel disk. Without looking inside, its anyones guess. I think i do need to open it up anyway as i believe the starter gasket is leaking. Thats crazy that the worn out lever would cause that. Again, i am assuming that because the bike has 4700 milles on it that things shouldnt be worn. Need to stop assuming and just dive in huh. Wont know for sure til i do. Im just going off the opions of others when i talk about the grenade plate. I have never had one fail but ive only owned the x1 for 3500miles. Guess it makes sense to remove it based on others experiences. Do not want it to happen when im far from home. If it ever would. (Message edited by Mike lee on May 25, 2018) | ||
| Ebutch |
It was caused by lack of lubing levers.Time can cause that.Found worn pivot when inspecting clutch cable.Cable end was worn too hence new cable.  All said I could not adjust clutch because of it. | ||
| Ebutch |
New Lever new clutch cable the Cure.  | ||
| No_sprk |
maybe ad some high moly graphite lube too? | ||
| Mike_lee |
Got some time to try and re-adjust the clutch. Or i guess verify my previous adjustments. Everything seemed to be ok as far as recommendations from my friends on here. But.... I noticed the other day that i had a hard time leaving first gear. Had to shut bike off to get to N. Thought it was just a fluke. Then it happened again today and the bike was actually moving forward on level ground even though the clutch was disengaged. I think i need to get the primary cover off and see whats goin on in there. Will most likely replace the clutch with an extra disk pack just so i know. Need to inspect starter gasket too as i believe its leaking from there. Local HD shop gaskets ok to use? Starter, primary, etc.... Anyone have any recommendations as to brand/material of clutch? | ||
| Mike_lee |
Id like to add that when im aggressive in take off from a stand still, i get a chirp. Sounds like im spinnin tire but im pretty sure thats not it. I would think the front would come up before the rear breaks traction. St Paul has the gasket kit i need so ill be ordering that right directly here. On a side note, has anyone experienced a belt jumping teeth? I thought i adjusted mine to the point where its not “scary loose” but rather “day-um thats loose” and under heavy acceleration, i get a feeling that...cant really explain it... like the belt jumps 2 or 3 teeth. Wonder if i can watch it while im driving. Hehe This is gona be interesting. Hold my beer..... | ||
| S1owner |
Belt jumping is easy to figure out. In three places on the side of your belt at the back gear mark a white dot then mark a corresponding dot on the gear. Drive it then see if the dots line up again. | ||
| Mike_lee |
That was it. I guess my “day-um thats loose” is actually looser than “scary loose”. Its a good feeling when things get resolved nice and easy. Thank you I was readin up on the “chirp” i mentioned earlier and found some info under “sans plate” in KV. I cant seem to get the clutch to engage at mid pull regardless of adjustments so i need to open it up and see what is transpiring in there. | ||
| S1owner |
Doing my build I had to use a 139 t belt and a tensioner. It amm appeared fine but Because the belt was so stiff when ever I would take off or shift hard I would get a front end shake and dive. Took me weeks adjusting the front and rear suspension and replacing parts till a badwebber told me to do the dot thing on mine. All that time it was a skipping belt!!! | ||
| Mike_lee |
So a belt can skip if its too loose OR too tight? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Too loose ,if it's too tight you gonna break it | ||
| S1owner |
Cant skip if its to tight it can damage bearings and break the belt. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Understood. Thank you for clarifying. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I had tried adjusting mine 'scary loose' once and it kept skipping on my way to work. Tightened it up a little and it was fine. Used my time this winter to unhook the rear suspension and adjust it so it was snug at the furthest point in the swingarm's travel like people recommend. I was a little unsure exactly how tight it should feel at that point, considering it's a belt it still had a small amount of plate in it even when I knew it was too tight, so I had to take my best guess. There's supposed to be an updated starter gasket. When I replaced mine it was just with a paper gasket. After I had gotten it and took a look at it, I probably would've tried to order a nicer one if I had the time, but I wanted to get my primary put back together so I stuck it in, and will just expect it to leak in the not too distant future and need replaced again. I'll also make sure to pull out that rotor plug and put some sealant on that too. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I did get the starter out without removing the clutch. it wasn't bad, just patience and a T-handle ball end allen wrench. installing the new gasket will be the tricky part I think. I didn't want to disturb the primary bolt as I don't have a torque wrench that goes above 150 but I can prob borrow one if I have to. the gasket that came out was coated with rubber on one side. I think side that went towards the case. I ordered a new one, as well as the primary gasket kit from St Paul. should have everything I need |
