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Cgerb73
Posted on Monday, May 28, 2018 - 08:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am looking for exhaust valves for my 2000 s3. part# 18636-98YB. Are there any parts from hd that can be used or aftermarket makers. like the evo sportster 1200 or something from kibblewhite.

Thanks
Gerb

(Message edited by cgerb73 on May 28, 2018)

(Message edited by cgerb73 on May 28, 2018)
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Cgerb73
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have some other questions about doing the valve job. The bike is stock with 37000 miles on it.

1. Does the base gasket have to be replaced. The cylinder wall looks really good and really didn't see the need to go down that far unless the base gasket has to be done. I know gaskets shouldn't be re-used just want to make sure before I start doing something I don't have to.

2. The valve guide part# is 18113-96y. There are different valve guides that have .001, .002 and .003 values in the parts catalog. I am guessing these are not to be used unless I am doing something other than stock.

3. If I am just replacing the damaged exhaust valve should I go ahead and do the intakes as well. Or at least change the valve seals and or the valve guides for the intakes since i am in there.

Thanks for any help.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 09:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you took the heads off, you need to.

Why do the valves need re-doing?
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had to replace a valve in my S2. It was a bit easier because it was a stock Sportster head and valves. If I remember correctly you can go to kibble whites page and look up the valves by make and model to get a part number, then you can source one one eBay, Amazon, ect. I only replaced/lapped the burned valve, as long as the others are sealing, I’d continue to run them.

I would recommend going on down and replacing the base gaskets and putting in a pigtail kit. SPHD has the kits or they can be had on eBay. Lance may be an option for the valve too.
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh and I had a bad experience with the cometic top end gasket kit. The head gaskets were coated metal, stock are fiber. The kit came with the o-rings for the head so I installed them. Mistake, it wasn’t long that a head gasket leak started and I had to take it back down again. I put stock head gaskets on (the latest part number revision does NOT require o-rings). No problems since.
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Phelan
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cometic head gaskets have not used O-rings in many years. It sound like you received old stock, or used O-rings that were extras for another crossover that used the same kit, and the O-rings were not actually supposed to be used for the locating dowels. I've used a hundred Cometic gasket kits on HD/Buell motors and never had a head gasket leak.

(Message edited by phelan on May 29, 2018)
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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can get you a replacement stainless exhaust valves from Kibblewhite for your thunderstorm heads as used in your S3. The price is $25 per valve plus shipping.

sales@nrhsperformance.com
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Tootal
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Evidently money is an issue. I would never pull a head just to fix one valve. I would pull both heads and have a valve job done on both. Doing one now and then having to do another one in 10,000 miles is going to cost more in the long run if you include down time. If you can afford it have both heads done and replace the base gasket. I'd also have the cylinders put in torque plates and checked with a bore gauge. If they are in good shape have them ball honed and install a new set of rings. A fresh top end will last a long time if done correctly and I'd find out why you ended up with a burnt valve too!
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ross, yeah it was my mistake. Not sure why they were included. I figured they’re in the kit and the FSM calls for them, so that’s what I did. I know now : )
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Gmaple
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agree with tootal, pull the heads and a complete valve job and replace all gaskets.
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Cgerb73
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 04:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks everyone for your response. There was tapping noise in the valvetrain by the front exhaust. Also had backfiring when releasing the throttle after moderate to hard take off. Having put 22k of the 36k miles on this bike I can tell you that this was not normal. Went with the notion that it was the lifter. Then after blowing air into cylinder noticed I was leaking out exhaust valve.
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