| Author | Message | ||
     Rek |
Is there a post on here somewhere talking about this? | ||
| Akbuell |
Knowledge Vault-Drive Train-Primary Drive. Akbuell was last (3rd) poster. FWIW, it's worth you apparently started the thread . . . | ||
| Akbuell |
Rek- PM sent | ||
| Rek |
 | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Get yourself a manual and get started with it! Remove everything on the primary side and pull the transmission out. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Remove the drive pulley before you get into the other side of the engine. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Guessing that the pulley is already removed, http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/823297.html?1519392780 | ||
| Rek |
I'm spinning my wheels here, can't figger-out how to remove the nut from the clutch basket to remove the primaries. | ||
| Barrick09 |
Rek: I just did this yesterday. You need to put the bike in 5th, tie down the rear brake and wedge something between the primary chain and clutch basket to stop it from spinning. IT'S LEFT HAND THREAD!!! | ||
| Akbuell |
The inner clutch hub rides on the mainshaft on a splined surface. The nut holding the hub to the shaft is, as mentioned, a Left Hand Thread. With the clutch plates and spring in place, and the primary locking tool in place, the outer clutch basket and the inner clutch hub should be locked together, and the splines should hold the shaft in place to allow the nut to be removed IF the shaft is spinning in the inner hub, and the transmission is in gear, locking the rear wheel in some manner could allow the nut to be removed. Another option may be to use an air impact gun. I have had luck in the past with that. Seems the individual impacts 'get ahead' of the shaft and the nut comes loose. Depending on where/what the flaw is, maybe removing the crankshaft nut and pulling the whole drive assy will allow the whole thing to come out, with the stub of the primary still in the inner clutch hub. Then you could deal with it in the bench. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Rek |
The problem is the shaft is broke inside. The nut turns freely either direction inside the clutch. On the other the sprocket does same, neither effects the other. I've tried edging, prying, air impacts... | ||
| Akbuell |
Well all righty then . . . I would really doubt that the splines on the mainshaft/inner hub have stripped, so the next most reasonable thought is that the nut and/or the mainshaft threads are stripped. Not that it would matter, one way or the other. That leaves 'cracking' the nut to get it off. Which may mean cutting up the inner hub to allow room to work on the nut. Which may mean cutting up the clutch basket, which may mean . . . . It goes on. Dave | ||
| Upthemaiden |
If youre using the primary locking bar and the nut is still spinning, it has to mean the splines are stripped. It wouldnt matter whats going on in the transmission. The clutch attaches to the shaft by splines, if youre keeping the clutch stationary and the nut is moving, either the splines stripped, or the threads for the nut stripped. Put a mark on the end of the shaft with a sharpie and see if it moves. Thatll tell you which it is. Hopefully its the splines, so you can get a new clutch and be on your way. | ||
| Rek |
I heard the shaft snap when I downshifted and accelerated to pass a semi. I don't believe anything is stripped spline-wise or threads since the main shaft turns easily w/ the nut or sprocket, depending on which side you turn. There isn't much room to get in behind the clutch assembly to try and clamp the shaft somehow. I wonder if I could weld something to the broken shaft...? | ||
| Rek |
I forgot to mention you can spin the nut and sprocket at the same time and in opposite directions. | ||
| Buelliedan |
if the shaft is broken it might just pull out. try grabbing the nut and pull and see what happens. | ||
| Rek |
I don't think I have a large enough bit to drill the shaft out. May a cut-off tool can fit in there, or the air chisel? | ||
| Buelliedan |
I doubt you have a bit hard enough to drill out the shaft as it is hardened steel and will dull a bit in seconds. The nut is also going to be hard to cut off as it has a shoulder that goes down about an inch so impossible to cut that without ruining the clutch basket. Can you get to the 5 bolts that hold the trans into the case with a real thin 1/2" open end wrench? You will need to cut the primary chain off and then slowly work the bolts out as it pulls the tranny put of the case. | ||
| Buelliedan |
You can get a good used trans once you get it out so don't worry about damaging the trans. | ||
| Phelan |
On that note, I have a good used 5 speed trans out of a Sportster, but will bolt in for all 91-up tubers. $250+shipping. (Message edited by phelan on May 07, 2018) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You're gonna have to post some pictures when you're done so we can see what's going on with it. | ||
| Rek |
"I doubt you have a bit hard enough to drill out the shaft as it is hardened steel and will dull a bit in seconds. The nut is also going to be hard to cut off as it has a shoulder that goes down about an inch so impossible to cut that without ruining the clutch basket. " Shit. There goes the air-chisel plan. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Maybe what you suggested ,weld a smaller diameter piece of iron on the middle of the shaft to hold it and try the loosen the nut | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If the huge nut is keeping it on, why not just dremel the nut off? Those little disks are cheap. I'd wager the Nut is not too expensive. Is there enough room in there for that? | ||
| S1owner |
If you are trying to remove the main pulkey you will need the below tools. You will have way better luck. Remember it is left had thread and you will need to heat up the nut to get the red loctite to release. The bevel on a normal socket does not give a good bite.  | ||
| Hootowl |
If the splines are shorn, and the nut/shaft turns freely within the clutch basket, and the shaft is actually broken and preventing you from locking the rear tire to prevent the shaft/nut from turning when you attempt to back it out, I don't see any alternative to cutting something to get the thing apart. Unless you think you might be able to remove the entire transmission without removing the clutch first. | ||
| S1owner |
(Message edited by S1owner on May 09, 2018) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"Maybe what you suggested ,weld a smaller diameter piece of iron on the middle of the shaft to hold it and try the loosen the nut" Only tricky part I'm thinking of with this plan is welding something onto the end of the shaft will keep you from being able to get a socket and breaker bar on it. They make thru-sockets/ratchets for that arrangement, but I picture it being harder and fairly expensive to track one down that'll fit a 1-3/16 nut. The set I have only goes up to 7/8th. Can you post some pictures maybe with some arrows drawn on showing us exactly what parts you're messing with? I read some posts and people are talking about your clutch, and other people are talking about your final drive pulley. I'm still a little confused about what side of the engine you're having this problem with. Edit: Ok... nevermind, maybe it's not that difficult OR that expensive... you can get the socket for $3 something, looks like the ratchet you need for it is $36. If you're never gonna use the socket for anything else you could always just grind the flats down a little and put a big adjustable wrench on it, or weld a handle right onto the socket. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-universal-max-axess -1-2inch-drive-1-3-16inch/p-00944650000P?sid=IDx01 192011x202447059&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Jyuw_j42gIVBIr ICh0m_wB5EAkYASABEgLZB_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CL 6wmMn4-NoCFUKzTwodRqIE8A http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2inch-drive-ratch et-max-axess-ratchet/p-00938963000P?plpSellerId=Se ars&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 | ||
| S1owner |
I dont get why people insist on trying to find a different way with some of this. I tried for 2 weeks to remove my pulley nut with a craftsman socket a breaker bar and a make shift pulley lock. I broke 2 1/2” 22” breaker bars and really was frustrated I did not listen to the many people telling me to use the correct tools. It took me 5 minutes to remove the pulley nut with the tools I posted above! | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I think that's why it sounds more complicated than it is. You were talking about removing the pulley, he was talking about cutting up the clutch basket and welding something to the shaft(which wouldn't be done on the pulley side because it's just a hollow shaft with a seal), so I believe he's talking about the other side of the engine, and not the pulley. That still leaves me confused why the primary lock bar and a socket isn't working. Even if the transmission snapped in 8 places, he should still be able to get the nut off with the lock bar since the splines will hold the transmission shaft in place. I'm just lost at this point.  |
