| Author | Message | ||
     Barrick09 |
Ok gents, Please let me know if I am on the right track or if I need to consider something else. At the end of the last riding season, I noticed that in first gear when letting the clutch out it felt like the bike was slipping or kicking in first. Some might say jumping. It's hard to describe. I did a lot of research and cam down to 3 possibilities and started on them in order of easiest first. Option 1: Belt tension Option 2: Check primary fluid level Option 3: adjust clutch/replace it option 4: dogs on first gear are bad So I adjusted the clutch by removing all the slack and turning the screw under the derby cover. A lot of places said to feel when the plates touch and back off a quarter of a turn, then adjust the cable. Well now when I pull the clutch in I can hear some scraping/squealing (very faint squeal). Am I missing something on the clutch adjustment? Is there a good video I can reference to check/change the first gear? Thanks. | ||
| Barrick09 |
Is it as simple as this guy makes it look to remove the transmission? Removal takes place around 13-15 min. He inspects the dogs as well. Remove primary cover, remove clutch and chain. Take the bolts out and slide the gears out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHA9iw6V-Is | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I just did it the other weekend, it was very simple. It took my longer because I was moving slow, following the manual step by step since it was all unfamiliar territory to me, and I had to keep stopping to buy sockets and make the clutch spring compressing tool, but overall, if you sat me down next to a completed tuber... I could probably have the transmission in my hand in 15 minutes. I gave the gears a good look over and even easily pulled out the shift drum to inspect that. Would've been a better winter project for you since you said this problem started at the end of last season. The weather is just starting to get nice now, but if your bike doesn't have any major problems you could have it back together the same weekend or the next and not miss too much riding time. | ||
| Barrick09 |
That's the plan. I didn't have time or space to do it over the winter, unfortunately. I just removed the primary cover and there was a lot of fine metal shavings. The bike has 26K miles on it and I'm pretty sure the clutch has never been changed. I've owned it for 13K of the 26 and I know I have never replaced it! The inside looks good, no large metal pieces, no broken teeth etc. I would like to install a rekluse clutch so the basket needs to come out anyway so I'll be checking the dogs while I wait for the clutch to come in. At worst the bike should be done in a week or two so I wont lose much time. That is unless the dogs are worn. If the Dogs are worn then what are my options? | ||
| Akbuell |
Just out of left field here, but does your bike have a 'grenade' plate like my X-1? May be something to look at . . . Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
My blast would bump after you released the clutch in first gear. Make sure you have the latest detent plate, the clip is holding it tight and that the shift drum pins are all flush with each other. I forget how far out they are supposed to be, just a few millimeters. Some even used loctite on the pins to try to keep them from migrating out. If that’s what you’re feeling. | ||
| Barrick09 |
Akbuell I've heard of the grenade plate but not sure what the difference is. I've seen photos. Here is what mine looks like. I will note that the shaft in the middle (assuming its the throwout bearing) is shot and flops around like crazy. Either way a rekluse clutch will eliminate all that. Once I make a clutch removal tool tomorrow I'll pull the gears and inspect them tomorrow. If all looks good I'll order the clutch. But what if the dogs are shot? what are my options?  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You'll know whether you have one as soon as you start pulling the plates out. If all you have are steel and friction plates, it was replaced. If you have a big giant thing right in the middle of the plates, you still have it. If the dogs are shot... easiest thing to do is order the new replacement gears and swap them. If you already got as far as pulling the transmission, you shouldn't have any problem swapping a few of the gears. If they're in rough shape you could send your transmission out to someone who works on them to have it cleaned up, but I don't know that it would end up being any cheaper, or how long the turn around time is on that. | ||
| Barrick09 |
I believe this to be a grenade plate?  The dogs all look to be in great shape as well as all the gears. If you see any suspect let me know. As of now, it seems like the culprit may only be a completely trashed throw out bearing.   Upthemaiden: Did you use any lock tight when putting it back together. It appears there was lock tight on clutch hub and sprocket. Also some kind of silicon on the threads of the transmission bolts. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You are correct, that is indeed the grenade plate. Throw it away and replace it with two steel plates and one fiber plate. I managed to find someone online with an old clutch that sold me the 3 plates for a few dollars, but you can also just replace all the plates for new if it's in the budget. In my unprofessional opinion, the gears look ok, but what you really want to be looking at is the gear dogs, where the gears on the same shaft connect with each other. This is a picture of mine, with the worn spots circled. It's not drastic, there's no chips and nothing is very rounded, but you can see the slightest amount of wear, and that's apparently all it takes to make a gear jump when you shift.  Before you put it back in, take a minute and pull the shift shaft out and make sure the tracks look ok. All you have to do is remove the bolt that holds the retaining clip that secures the shift shaft, pull the 3 cotter pins, then get the shift pins out of the holes. A small magnet would make it easy, but I didn't have anything that skinny, I just had to hold it upside down and shake it for 2 minutes. Then replace those with three 1/16 cotter pins, 3/4" long when you're done. As far as locktight, there should be some blue locktite on the 5 trap door bolts, and I believe red locktite on the clutch and rotor bolts. I didn't really see any when I pulled mine off, but I wasn't really looking either. | ||
| Screamer |
At a minimum the two gear's dogs should be dressed, preferably replace them both. It's likely the symptom is going to get worseif they're not replaced. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That "grenade plate" doesn't look bad (yet). Mine failed at about 50,000 miles. The symptom was dragging clutch getting worse and worse until it was locked right up. The brass rivets had worn through and the heads jammed+ruined the adjacent plates. | ||
| Barrick09 |
Does anyone have a stock kevlar clutch plate they can measure with calipers? Or do you know what the stock thickness should be so I can measure these disc and see how much wear/life is on them? Screamer: Are you referring to my gear set specifically or upthemaiden? Thanks. | ||
| Screamer |
Barrick 09, Sorry, I confused UpTM's photos with yours. On yours, I can't clearly see (at least on my IPad) the condition of the shifter dogs. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
What do you mean when you say the gears should be dressed? Are you taling about machine shop work, or just cleaning them up? | ||
| Screamer |
"De-blurring" the dog edges... May not help but it will do no harm. |
