| Author | Message | ||
     Upthemaiden |
On occasion if I don't get a good solid shift from 2nd to 3rd gear it'll engage for a second, then the engine will jump for a second like the gears slipped, then it reconnects right after and everything is fine. If I give it a good conscious shift it's not usually a problem, and once it's in gear, it never slips out. Also interestingly, it's only ever done it going from 2nd to 3rd, never from 4th to 3rd. Currently I've got my primary cover off to replace the shift detent plate(and all related springs), primary tensioner, clutch spring plate, crank oil seal and starter gasket. While I was in there I pulled out the transmission just to take a look. From anything I could find after reading through the service manual, nothing stood out to me, but before I put the clutch back on I just wanted to double check with people who are more familiar with these transmissions and what a good/bad one looks like. When I'm going into 3rd, if something was going to jump, it would be this connection, right? I took a handful of pictures and a couple short videos of the transmission moving in each gear, but if I needed to pull it out to check it better, now is the time.  | ||
| Shoggin |
Pretty classic symptom of worn dogs. It's not the gear teeth you need to look at, take a close look at the flats that engage the two gears together. They should be sharp and mate together perfectly. I don't know if that set is undercut or not. These guys are ridiculously smart, and can re-build them: http://www.r-dmotorsports.com | ||
| Buelliedan |
Shoggin is 100% correct and his recommendation on who to send it to is very good. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I assumed, I just wanted to make sure I have the right gear combo while I was looking at it. I do see a tiny bit of wear on some of the edges where the 2nd/3rd gears meet that I normally wouldn't have thought would cause any problems, but from what I've gathered looking around online, it really doesn't take a lot for them to jump. I believe they're undercut. The dogs are more of a trapezoid shape instead of square, if that's what you're referring to. I'm just going to leave it as is for now. It wasn't that bad of a problem that needs sorted out right now, I just wanted to take a look to get an idea of what the issue was while I was already that far into the engine. Someday I'll look into replacing the 2nd & 3rd gear cogs with some new ones. I can't imagine I'd save that much money, if any, paying for the machine work and shipping both ways on it. No rush though, I'll just make sure I get a good shift into 3rd and hope the detent plate helps the shifts feel a little better. A little harder to see in the pictures. I can zoom in nice and close on my phone for a close view. Keep in mine everything still has oil on it so some spots that look worn is just oil making it look distorted, but you can see some definite wear in the spots I circled.    | ||
| Shoggin |
Those are undercut for sure! Looks like 7* or so. They look to be in pretty good shape, but since they're in your hand..... | ||
| Ralph |
Did you take a look at your shift drum? The 2/3 shift path has a zig-zag where the pin has to change direction. That slight impact can push up a burr which will then interfere with the smooth sliding of the shift fork. That can cause incomplete movement of the fork or enough drag to make for inconsistent/incomplete shifts. That ends up causing the dogs to not be pushed into full engagement so they end up getting beat, like yours (like mine were  ). Your dogs are getting whipped on but you may be able to stone them and get some more use out of them. You want to take care of the problem soon rather than later. The 2/3 gears are related to the 3/4 so as one set goes it takes the other with it. Then you have to replace four rather than just two. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Stupidly no, I didnt really look at the shift drum. I thought of that as soon as I put the transmission back in and torqued the bolts down. I'll pull it out again and give it a good look over. If the shift path has some kind of burr is that something I can clean up while it's together, or does the whole thing really need pulled apart to get at it good? "Stone them".... does that mean filing them down a little? I'm not familiar with that term. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Rubbing an abrasive stone over a rough edge to create a smooth surface. Its like filing but without the file. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I pulled it, it looked pretty good, no burrs or rough edges. The pins looked good too, I flipped them over just to give the fresh ends a turn. Just have to get some new cotter pins before I can stick it back in. | ||
| Edv |
I have 3 Buells, 2 S2 and one S1 and they all have this 2-3 shift ailment if you speed shift them, if you granny shift them there is no problem. I just chalk it up to an idiosyncrasy of this gear box. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Related question that I don't want to start a whole new thread over. I see plenty of people talking about adjusting the shifter with a #32 drill bit like the manual says... I'm having a hard time finding a #32 drill bit locally. #32 is equivalent to 0.116", is a 1/8"(0.125") drill bit sufficient for setting that? Or should I just order one online and wait for it to come in the mail? Edv: that's the kind of info I like to hear! Mine has never been bad enough to be a problem, it's just been enough to remind me to be a bit more deliberate with my shifting. Hopefully the new detent plate/springs, new clutch cable, and a fresh clutch adjustment will improve the feel slightly, and might help with feedback on my shifts(I know they won't affect anything that's actually wrong with a transmission). It wasn't ever serious enough to dig into the transmission on it's own, but while I already had the contents of the primary removed, and an example of project creep at it's best, I figured I should pull it out. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
They have #32 bits at Ace Hardware usually. About one of those in every town in America I thought lol | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Looks like there's one about half an hour away. I'll just set it with the 1/8th and grab a #32 next time I can find one for future adjustments. I need a lathe, I come across at least one thing a week that makes me think "this could be so easily solved if I had a lathe". |
