| Author | Message | ||
     Mhlunsford |
I need to get to the trans in my m2 and need to purchase the sockets for the removing the stator and the clutch basket? And which one is reverse thread? Thanks! | ||
| H0gwash |
My notes say the engine nut is a 1-1/8 socket and I have to hit it with a propane torch for 10 minutes first. The clutch basket nut is the reverse threaded one and is a 1-3/16 socket. Maybe someone else can verify. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Sounds correct. You’ll need a 4 or 5 inch piece of flat bar to lock the primary, I think the flat bar on a 4 inch U-bolt works IIRC. I’ve also used an old leather belt folded over between the chain and sprocket. (Message edited by Williamscottrobertson on February 17, 2018) | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Cool thanks - | ||
| Buellbum |
---I need to get to the trans in my m2 --- upload pics of your progress because i'm going to have to do this job too at some point in time. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
I have done it a couple times in the past- not that hard. A long breaker bar is all you need to get the large nuts off. I usually then give the stator a few taps with a mallet and the primary chain and sprockets will come off. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
That stator can be a royal PITA. Sometimes they slide right off, sometimes they don’t. | ||
| H0gwash |
Buellbum- if you want to remove the entire transmission including the gear pressed into the final drive sprocket, you will also need a 1-7/8 inch socket and this one also is reverse thread. | ||
| Harleyelf |
You will also need a very small prybar with a right angle tip and a quarter inch blade. Think bent screwdriver. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Just to confirm, because a few people mentioned sizes they were pretty sure were correct, but weren't 100% sure... The front sprocket needs a 1-1/8th" deep socket, the rear gets a 1-3/16 regular socket. Both of mine came loose with a 2' breaker bar and no heat needed. The locking bar I used was made from 1/8" thick steel, 1-1/2 wide and 4-1/4" long(although an extra 1/8" might not have hurt). I filed down the edges so they were nice and smooth. I put the transmission in 5th gear and put a metal bar under the swingarm, just make sure to put rags between the bar and the swingarm/wheel. I made a spring compressor out of a 3" pvc coupler cut to 1" tall, attempted to use the same 4-1/4" bar with a hole drilled in the middle, it bent. I tried making a second to stack them, they still wanted to bend. Went back to the store and picked up a 1/4" by 1-1/2" bar and had no more problems. If I was doing it over I'd just start with the 1/4" bar, and file the ends down to enough of a taper that I can use that for the primary lock as well, but now that I've already got all of mine cut, I'll probably just use the two separate ones if needed in the future. Any other questions while it's fresh in my head? | ||
| S2forever |
Today I ordered a regular 1 1/8" socket for crank nut. Will cancel and order a long one. Thanks. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you're removing the stator, you're doing something wrong. Stator stays put. ROTOR comes off. Stator = stationary. Rotor = rotating piece with magnets and chain sprockets. I'm changing the primary on my XB right now, and ditto the above statements - a decent extension on a 1/2" drive breaker bar was all I needed to break both nuts loose. Engine crank nut gets torqued to 160 lb-ft on an XB; input shaft bolt only gets 80 lb-ft I believe, it comes off much more easily. (note: those are XB specs, I'd have to check the book to see what tuber specs are). | ||
| S2forever |
Thanks for info. Heck, it is time to ride, not to fix, whether is so good... | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Good call on the socket. Some regular sockets MAY fit, but the one I had was definitely too short so the deep socket is a safe bet. I also got impact sockets in case I needed the impact gun, but didn't end up needing it. Both were available in the drawer at lowes. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Do NOT use impact on the rotor/crank nut. Unless you'd like magnets to fall off. | ||
| S2forever |
Thanks for reminder. |
