| Author | Message | ||
     Buellbum |
ok, i was posting about my 2000 cyclone skipping "a notch" in 2nd gear under heavy load . the good folks alerted me to the fact that my 2nd gear cogs were likely going bad. but i'm going to change the trans oil and see if that helps. which oil is best for this problem? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Stick with the H-D recommended stuff. It's hard to find something that will lube the metal bits, NOT kill the charging system, and not mess up the clutch plates. | ||
| Hootowl |
Sportrans (which is hydraulic fluid) or 20-50 synthetic motor oil. No oil is going to resolve a mechanical issue though. | ||
| Buelliedan |
its not the cogs that are worn its the dogs. And Hoot is right, new oil is not going to help, sorry. | ||
| Buellbum |
yeah, that's what i thought but i was hoping because the problem is marginal only when i really let it rip. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Copied from the other thread: Why would you use gear oil, when the manual calls for sport-trans? This has been said repeatedly in this thread - GET THE SERVICE MANUAL. That is step ONE. End of discussion. Once you have the book you can see diagrams and pictures of what's inside; you can see the factory fluids for the various spots on the bike; you can see the torque specs for the involved fasteners; and you can do the job the RIGHT way. Keep in mind, your electrical system swims in this fluid, along with your clutch assembly. The wrong fluid WILL smoke your stator, guaranteed. Now, so you could save $15 in fluid, you've tripled your parts expense because now you need a new stator assembly (and possibly a new clutch), along with new gears. You can do it cheap...and do it over...or you can do it right. Your choice. And to echo Hoot - oil won't change a thing, except help empty your wallet. You have a problem with a hard part. It is not a clutch slipping, it is a metal piece that is not engaging properly under load because it is worn, and when you "let it rip" it puts enough load on the metal part that it operates incorrectly, because of the problem. This is not an automotive automatic transmission, activated by fluid pressures. This is metal on metal. The fluid is only there to keep things from sticking, and keep them from overheating. | ||
| Buellbum |
Ratbuell: sure, i understand that but some oils have friction modifiers et. because my problem is marginal i thought i'd try a different oil to forestall the inevitable trans rebuild. i'll just put 20/50 in it like i've been doing with my superglide for 55K miles. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Friction modifiers don't fix broken metal teeth or worn shift shafts. Friction modifiers work with limited slip CLUTCHES - they don't change how broken or worn out metal behaves. But you know more than everyone who's tried to help you here, so do what you want. It's your bike. Me...I'd fix it right the first time now that I know what it is. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Buellbum, As Ratbuell is trying to tell you this is NOT an automatic transmission. It is a manual. All that stuff about friction modifiers applies to auto trams. It has nothing to do with a manual trans |
