| Author | Message | ||
     Jakenok |
Looking at a 02 M2. Exhaust pic is befuddling me. Is this some kind of exhaust I've not seen before or something home cobbled?  | ||
| Jakenok |
I'm thinking I know the answer, but I'm curious. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
that's an OEM 98+ exhaust someone chopped 2 feet off of and welded back together. Interesting approach. | ||
| 1313 |
OEM 99+ exhaust 98 was different... | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I wasn't sure when the M2s started using it, but I believe that's the same exhaust that came on the 98 S1W when they switched to the 2.5" header. Some of them were stainless, but if it's chopped up and rewelded, it could've just been spray painted black. | ||
| Ratbuell |
All 98 thunderstorm mufflers (s1w and s3) were stainless. That is a stock later mild steel muffler that's had the midsection removed and the endcaps simply welded to each other. My guess is 99 since the m2 also had a black mild steel header in 99. | ||
| Gusm2 |
Agree with rb I also see its broken where the clamp should be and it looks like a jubilee clip in its place..... | ||
| Jakenok |
Yeah, looks like a mess. | ||
| Jakenok |
Here's the bike. Been a while since my last Buell. Anything jump out at you?  | ||
| Jakenok |
Left side  | ||
| Ratbuell |
That looks like a home-brew forcewinder - it's just the interior of the factory airbox, with a filter stuck on the end. I'd listen to it carefully when its running. Homebrew stuff like the intake, and the muffler, opens a world of possibilities for similar home-brew stuff inside the engine when it comes to repairs and adjustments. Such as apparently re-using the primary adjustment window gasket - note the Valdez-quality leakage coming from the seam, and the previously-mentioned worm-drive hose clamp "holding" the muffler to the header. Do they have the tail plastic? I hope it's a steal of a deal... | ||
| Jakenok |
I don't know what else they have. Haven't gone to look yet, it's a couple of hours away. Asking 2K. Personally think that's high. Not many tubers here in Oklahoma and Kansas.  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Tough call. If it's a good runner and you just have the quirky exhaust and some little things to fix, that's fine. I bought my bike after a 3.5 hour drive, and at that point you're pretty committed, so do your best to get as many detailed pictures and ask as many questions as you can. The pictures I had of mine weren't that great, and even worse was that it was raining when I met the guy, so looking at the bike after it had been driving in the rain in the bed of his truck for a couple hours made it hard to really get a good look at things like brakes and oil seals. Things that slipped past me due to rain and the lack of weather for a thorough test drive was a warped front rotor and leaking fork seals. Things I didn't really know to look for were the isolators that were all shot... other things that came along with the general rough condition of the bike... the clutch cable adjuster is frozen and the cable leaks, my front brake drags, some pads needed replaced, grips were shot, the rear cylinder leaks a little... and of course if those kind of things are wrong, you know my bike hasn't had any of the unseen updates, like the primary chain tensioner, oil pump drive gear, clutch spring plate... All that to say... I spent $2500 on my S1 with 14k miles, a good deal in my opinion, but over the past year and a half I've probably dumped well over $500(and wouldn't be surprised if it'd be closer to $1000 considering I've already had to replace both tires in the first riding season) just to really get this thing running reliably. I don't mind wrenching on it at the slightest, but with kids my time is unfortunately limited at the moment, and had I known all of those things would've come up, I probably would've opted to look for a cleaner example and spend closer to $3000-3500 for one of the cleaner bikes that I see popping up sometimes that's ready to hop on and ride. All things considered that M2 looks like it's in pretty comparable condition to me S1, so expect some extra expenses to come up and factor that into your price. You know off the bat you're probably gonna end up finding a different exhaust and an intake once those two things start to bug you after looking at them 100 times, so that's already a minimum of about $200 in parts if you get some used stuff on ebay. As far as the bodywork, that one has the original tail plastic and he cut it down, so I wouldn't expect a full tail to come with it, so if you don't like those exposed wires you're looking at some money for a new one of those as well. They're pretty rare so they don't come up cheap either. I know the only S1 tails I've seen for sale since I got mine were the ones on ebay that were usually listed for something crazy around $400. So... I didn't mean for any of that to sound discouraging, just want to make sure you know what comes along with buying a bike that's hours away, and to make sure you know that you're gonna end up spending more on the bike after you get it, so make your offer a bit less than your overall budget. Make sure you point out the chopped exhaust and intake when you're haggling. You can point out the oil stain on the primary cover too, just know he's gonna say "nah man, that's just a $2 gasket, easy fix", so be ready to point out that his willingness to neglect such an easy leak makes you a little weary of what else he's probably neglected all this time. | ||
| Devdawg |
It actually looks pretty clean. Very little to no rust on the small nuts/bolts and other areas that usually rust first and collect dirt and grime if not taken care of, except for the primary adjustment window gasket as Ratbuell pointed out, or that could be from the exhaust exiting where it does. It doesn't look like the header wrap is hiding any dents/scrapes in the header either. Ask for a close up pic of both exhaust flanges, to make sure none of the bolts have snapped off. Looks like it's been repainted too. Ask when it was done, these tanks are notorious for bubbling and if not done right, they will bubble again. It looks like the tail is there just cut down...a lot. I agree with Ratbuell about the concern for homebrew items...makes you wonder what other "good ideas" did they have? 2K might be a little high depending on the miles. Too bad it's not closer to you, I'd want to hear it run as well. Except for the intake rig and the WTF exhaust...it looks pretty good. (Message edited by devdawg on November 17, 2017) | ||
| Blks1l |
Just another note, that rear shock may be leaking, could also be oil from above it. | ||
| Jakenok |
I saw that. Is that one of the so called recall shocks? | ||
| S1owner |
Thats a 1500 dollar tuber. Most likely you will need a new header and muffler, and several maintenance items. The rear plastics have been cut up. Up here you can get more bike for 2000 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/19986980 97031886 | ||
| Lynrd |
It probably depends on what you are planning to do with it, and how willing you are to wait. Veronica (98 S3) cost me $2000 but was all there, box stock but chipped and rusty. The frog (2000 S3T) was $1000 but had a tired engine and quite a bit of tip over damage. - but probably still in better shape mechanically than that poor Cyclone. If you wanted to rescue her, 2002 is a good year. I bet you can talk the seller down. It’s either you or some chopper builder that will buy her for the engine and thow the rest away. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I saw that. Is that one of the so called recall shocks? That is one of the recalled shocks. It's the newest version and the one you want. I see a big dark spot on the top of the shock, which makes me feel like some of that oil is landing on it from above. That's not to say it couldn't still be leaking on it's own. You'd also want to see where the oil on top is coming from... whether it's an oil leak, or if it's just dripping out of a breather hose. } | ||
| Mhlunsford |
I made a similar muffler from off the shelve parts - just got tired of paying 500 for a muffler the bike destroys. But l run good oil and do maintenance. I would pay 1k to 1.5k depending on mileage. I would check the compression and if it shifts well and see what the plugs look like after a 15min ride or at least let it run. If the header is ok you can make or buy a muffler. 2002 should have new shock. (Message edited by Mhlunsford on November 21, 2017) | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Pic  | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Pic  | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Pic | ||
| Mhlunsford |
I made a similar muffler from off the shelve parts - just got tired of paying 500 for a muffler the bike destroys. But l run good oil and do maintenance. I would pay 1k to 1.5k depending on mileage. I would check the compression and if it shifts well and see what the plugs look like after a 15min ride or at least let it run. If the header is ok you can make or buy a muffler. 2002 should have new shock. |
