| Author | Message | ||
     Bsanorton |
Sorry for this common question, but I didn't see a recent thread on this & I haven't bought tires in a while and need to now. what do you like? | ||
| Robertl |
Most will swear by the Pilot 4s, including me. I put them on my 1125 and actually feel very comfortable riding in the rain now. I put Roadsmart II's on my M2 but haven't ridden it a whole lot since. People also give these great reviews and I hear the III's are even better. | ||
| Mtjm2 |
Michelin pilot road 2s on my 01M2. | ||
| S1owner |
I am a pilot fan | ||
| Bsanorton |
thank you for the recommendations | ||
| Lasbuell |
I have a 2000 X1 and will most likely need tires next season. What size is everyone running? I'd like a little fatter tire on the back. And GO!!  | ||
| Bsanorton |
My rear is a 180, but I believe stock is 170. Any thoughts on keeping it a 180? | ||
| S1owner |
Stock for pm rims is 180 cast rims is 170. I ran a 190 on my pm rims with no issue but tires differ. I run a 190 on my xb rims | ||
| Jramsey |
Stock for pm rims is 180 cast rims is 170. Wrong.  | ||
| Steveford |
What everyone else has said - go with Pilot Road 4s, they're just terrific. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Stock for pm rims is 180 cast rims is 170. Wrong. Perhaps he meant the PM will accept a 180. I have the pilot 3 and I like them. Maybe ill try the 4's next. I have read that even though the fatter rear looks more badass, it can affect handling. I don't imagine 10cm would be all that noticeable. Please do not quote me on this. (Message edited by mike lee on November 15, 2017) | ||
| Ratbuell |
It is absolutely noticeable, to an experienced rider. I had a 180 rear on my S2 last set because I couldn't find a 170. A too-wide tire for the rim gets "pinched" and instead of the tread being rounded from sidewall to sidewall, it becomes more V shaped and the bike will want to "tip" off-center. Liveable, but certainly not ideal. I put a 170 on this time and it's a completely different machine. More natural, more nimble, more predictable. It's not a "chopper". I never understood the wide tire fetish anyway. And...I kinda like the skinny-tire vintage look. Especially when it works better to boot! (Message edited by Ratbuell on November 15, 2017) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Currently I have some Continental Contimotions. I think their design is a few years old, but that's what was on the front of my bike when I bought it, and my tires keep wearing out at different times, and I just keep buying more so I have a matching set. I ride in all kinds of weather, my rear is scrubbed all the way to the edges, and they haven't given me any kind of problems. Honestly though, every tire I've used over the past 17 years has all felt the same to me. Maybe if I was on the track I could notice some subtle differences, but I feel like on a street bike, they all work. | ||
| Purpony |
love my Michelin pilot road 2s! I run a 180 on my 5.5 XB Rear. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
"I never understood the wide tire fetish anyway" I run 180 rear on PM wheels. (Mostly for looks so a fetish it might be.) I'm probably not skilled enough to really feel or utilize the difference 1 cm of width would make, but in theory a wider tire gives us mortals a bigger contact patch when cornering, tailbraking and shifting in the corner. I'm not as smooth as I'd like to be all the time. Another theoretical excuse, with more air volume in the tire I should get a smoother ride over bumps. (There's my excuses for my non spec width, and I'm sticking with them!) Rat's correct that going over the top in width would pinch the profile, and make the tire quirky. It also would accelerate wear, unless you spent a lot of time on the outside of the tire. I also learned, some of it through my own mistakes, that inflation pressure changes the behavior of a tire drastically. Lower inflation pressures will increase your contact patch, but at the expense of extra heat in the tire carcass from all that flexing. On a cold, wet road at freezing temps, a slight 1-3 lb adjustment MIGHT be desirable for traction to get you home. The bike is "stuck better", but it also means a mushy feeling in corners. It's no fun to ride like that though. With overinflation, the tire rolls in easy, the bike coasts great, and you get better mileage. Trade off is the tire gets bouncy on bumps, rides rougher and with a smaller patch, skates easier in hard corners. You also scrub tread off faster because it can't flex like its supposed to. I think you should select the tire you want for the bike and the way you intend to ride it. As long as you use your head and keep safety in mind when going plus or minus in tire width you should be fine. ("I like the way it looks", is perfectly valid reason too.) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I agree that I think sportbikes look best with a 180-190 rear. Anything bigger than a 200 and it starts to lose it's appeal. I'm perfectly content with the 170 on my S1 though, that's what's supposed to be there. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Actually, the "more contact patch" theory only applies when the tire is on the correct size rim. Pinching a tire onto a narrower rim, as mentioned above, makes for sharper angles and a "taller" overall tire. You're actually giving yourself a smaller contact patch by using a tire that's too wide for the rim. Geometry at work. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Rat: I've clearly stated my position, and elaborated sufficiently to support that position. You are merely trying to cloud the issue with your facts. If I weren't a gentleman, I would believe your facts are a deliberate attempt to subvert the issue, and paint me as an uninformed, blowhard, boob. I assure you sir, I am NOT uninformed....  |
