| Author | Message | ||
     Lucky13zk |
So I finally got me an ECMspy cable and got the software running only to find that I'm not able to adjust/reset my TPS at all. Went from one extreme to the other loosening and tightening idle adjustment screw and found that even when my screw is all the way in it still won't touch the throttle body. It's like a good 1/4 inch away too. So no way to actually set it to 5 or anything for that matter. Since I already reset the tps before finding this out my bike won't even hold an idle at all now  Any ideas what I can do to fix this? Looks like I might be able to adjust the throttle and idle cables but wanted to get some insight before I started ripping things apart ya know.... If I push back on the throttle body I can get it to touch the screw but it won't stay there as if it could even be a bad spring on the butterfly valve.. or maybe just too tight of cables... any help would be appreciated greatly  (Message edited by lucky13zk on August 16, 2017) (Message edited by lucky13zk on August 16, 2017) (Message edited by lucky13zk on August 16, 2017) | ||
| Hootowl |
A photo of the idle screw might be instructive. There's obviously something wrong there. | ||
| Lucky13zk |
Yea that could definitely be helpful I'll try to get one posted on here tonight once I get home from work. If not I'll at least get a youtube video posted with a link to it on here. | ||
| Lucky13zk |
So I was messing with the throttle last night and decided to spray it down with some lube and after snapping the throttle a few times it's now sitting back on the idle adjustment screw just fine and I was able to set the TPS properly. Bike started up like a champ. I'm still a little concerned that the cables may be loose... If you happen to check out the video link below you can kinda see that the back one even has a slight bend in it that goes away when the cable tightens up. Should I be worried about this or is this a normal amount of play in the cables? https://youtu.be/K57LEBmvtcA Also took a few pictures...   https://youtu.be/K57LEBmvtcA | ||
| S1owner |
If the cables are loose and there is no further adjustments to be made. Then IMO the cable has stretched and they should be replaced. I purchase a cable kit from Venhill usa and make my own. Its cheaper for a better cable and you get exactly the routing you desire. Standard cable link here but they do make braided ones also http://www.venhillusa.com/venhill-universal-motorc ycle-throttle-cable-kit-92-inch.html | ||
| Hootowl |
I wouldn't be concerned about how far you can flex them to one side. What you need to make sure of is that the end of the cable sheath cannot pop out of the socket where the cable exits the sheath. If there's enough slop to allow the sheath to pop out, you could have a stuck throttle condition. Buell released a recall (service bulletin?) that clamps those sheaths in place to prevent improperly adjusted cables from causing an injury. It doesn't appear that your bike has the additional part the recall addressed (but I can't see the top of the cable mount). Mine doesn't either...I never took it in. I just make sure that if I mess with the cables for some reason, that I ensure I have them adjusted properly before I ride. You may have to remove the tank to do this, but grab hold of the cable sheath near the throttle body, and try to pull it out of the socket. If it comes out, your cables are too loose. You should be able to roll the throttle a small amount (maybe 1/4 inch of movement, measured at the perimeter of the grip). A little slop is desirable, so as to keep it from binding. Too much can be dangerous. | ||
| Lucky13zk |
Mine has that add on clamp from the newer models so they are definitely pretty tight up top on the sheaths. Was hard as hell to get a picture at all I had one angle and one angle only that I could actually get the screw in it lol. Didn't think it was worth pullin the gas tank just for a better pic/vid I was happy enough to have it idling  Well theres just about a 1/4 inch of play or less in the throttle so I'm just gonna leave em be. Running great now that my TPS is set correctly. I guess I'll just keep and eye on em and if they get any looser I'll be getting some new cables. Thanks Hootowl and S1owner I will definitely be checking out those cables. I would much rather learn how to make my own so that link is much appreciated. | ||
| S1owner |
Make all my own cables and their brake lines are by far the best I have seen! | ||
| Hootowl |
The cables are adjustable (double nut arrangement near the hand grip). No need to replace if you've still got adjustment. | ||
| Lucky13zk |
So turns out I still have some kinda problem somewhere in my mess of a bike. Went to take it for a ride for the first time since I put it back together and its like I don't even need to use the throttle... Once the bike is warm and I rev it up the idle will stay at about 2000 to 3000rpms. When it's cold it'll idle back down to the normal 1000. Even if I turn it off after it warms up it starts up running at 2000 and won't go down. I can back the idle screw all the way out with no effect. The throttle cables are still loose and the throttle body is snapping back all the way closed as it's supposed to.. You would think it's stuck open or something... I'm at a loss on this one... Was going to post a video to help out but I forgot the GoPro at home:/ I'll post that tonight so that this makes more sense to someone. I did take a pic of the throttle adjustment knobs up by the handlebar... I tried backing them all the way out then all the way in but the cables were still just as loose as in the video. Might be time for new cables but I still think there is a bigger issue here. So in this picture, I have the one closest to the camera backed out. I am guessing that this means the cable is loose right? So if I screw it all the way in towards the grip this is tightening it? The manual is a little vague on this... doesn't exactly say which way is loose or tight just says to turn until minimum length then adjust.. I'm sure with good cables your able to see it tightening but I can't notice a change at all.. just seems loose loose loose.  | ||
| Akbuell |
Would be advisable to check your intake manifold gaskets for leaks. A regular idle that goes up and 'hangs' is a classic sign of an intake leak. If the bike is new to you, replacing the manifold gaskets as a preventive measure, given the bikes age, would be worthwhile. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Hootowl |
+1 on intake leak. Very common. | ||
| Lucky13zk |
So I put up a couple more video's to show what's going on with it while I ride it and also one where I spray carb cleaner on the intake manifold to check for leaks. The intake doesn't appear to be leaking but I think I'm going to replace the gaskets anyway since I do have a set that came with my gasket kit. What started all of this was my oil pump drive gear shredded and locked up my oil pump(even took a tooth off the oil pump gear). So in order to replace that I had to pull off the cam cover which means I had to take the cam position sensor off the cam cover. After I put it all back together I set the static timing for the CPS(bike wouldn't start up n idle right until I did this) and I thought the bike was done considering it idled just fine but after a couple minutes of it idling even without messing with the throttle it would go up over 2000rpms. So then I went on to buy a cable and reset the TPS. Before resetting the TPS the sensor would read as 28 while the throttle was completely closed. That's just about the entire back story. As far as tuning goes the bike ran really solid since I had the 1250 kit installed and dyno tuned about 1.5 years ago. Was pulling 114whp on the dyno with no rough spots on the entire rev range up until now. Riding the bike: https://youtu.be/yo6MdEID4HI Testing for intake leaks: https://youtu.be/b50xV1Kwxcw (Message edited by lucky13zk on August 21, 2017) |
