| Author | Message | ||
     S1owner |
So found a guy making these and states they are used them road tacing and drag racing. He states it adds no vibes but really increases feel. I would like some peoples thoughts that are more knowledgeable then myself? Could this be a way to go in the future as these become unobtainable?  | ||
| Two_seasons |
This is a wild guess, but the rubber on isolators is probably only for under 3,500 rpm riding, idling and the like. My guess us above 3,500, it doesn't matter. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I can't imagine how someone could replace a rubber part with an aluminum one and say there's no increase in vibrations. I know people like them for racing to stiffen up the bike, but I picture it being less than enjoyable when I'm sitting in traffic on my way to work. Either way, I feel like at some point in the future when the supply of isolators dry up, this might be what we have to use. | ||
| 651lance |
Just ride a 1984 thru 2003 sportster and tell me that's the feel you want out of your Buell for everyday riding. The harmonics will start breaking bolts and the lighter steel parts. The bikes aren't made for solid mounts. | ||
| Hootowl |
Run your bike at 4500 RPM, and then reach over with your foot and touch the case. It's vibrating like a pad sander. Those isolators are doing something. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
I have ones like the aluminum you have above on the drag bike They DO increase vibrations If you need a stiff machine, go for it. Street bike? Nah. | ||
| S1owner |
Thats why I asked it made no sense in my head. Heck I put the aluminum stiffiners in the iso and I felt the diffrence and promptly removed | ||
| Two_seasons |
Good info from you guys. That must be some thick rubber  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"Run your bike at 4500 RPM, and then reach over with your foot and touch the case. It's vibrating like a pad sander. Those isolators are doing something." I'll have to give that a try on the way home. I see other people saying their bikes are completely smooth over 3k rpm, mine shakes pretty good all the way through the rpms, hoping that putting in these new isolators after riding season is over will help smooth things out. That's be a good indicator of what good isolators could do compared to aluminum fittings. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Two things: * Have ten years on my new style rubber isolators. No issues or sign of tearing after 40K miles. Expect them to last another twenty years. The old style, like you picture, tore after about 10K miles. * To really cut vibrations, add a Stenzel style brace. Fellow Buell rider, Red93stang, makes them and they are worth the price: Badweb thread; http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/784607.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/boar d-profile.cgi?action=view_profile&profile=red93sta ng-users http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buell-Front-Isolator-Motor -Mount-Brace-Stenzel-M2-S1-X1-Erik-Lightning-Cyclo ne-/141900001924?hash=item2109e63284:g:tpcAAOSwL7V WnaP6&vxp=mtr | ||
| S1owner |
Agree I was more curious on others thoughts. I have had a stenzel bar on for sometime. Mine was made by Foximus back then. Little diffrent of a design it has a vertical stiffener sliced and welded through the center.  | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
The rear isolators were busted on my S1W when i bought it. I knew once he started the bike and it began vibrating backward down the driveway on the sidestand. I asked him if they were torn, he said he wasnt sure he had plugs in the frame holes. It was metal on metal, ripped totally off on the right side and badly torn on the left. Id deduce that these solid isolators would yield a similar result. | ||
| Hootowl |
"I see other people saying their bikes are completely smooth over 3k rpm" That's because the isolators are preventing the engine vibes from making it to your hands, feet, and butt.  The engine itself is buzzing like a madman. | ||
| Screamer |
Two Seasons - Sent you a PM. Thanks - RR | ||
| Johnod |
If anyone REALLY wants to find out, I have a set I'd be happy to sell you. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"That's because the isolators are preventing the engine vibes from making it to your hands, feet, and butt. : ) The engine itself is buzzing like a madman." Mine weren't haha. I still had plenty of shaking all the way up the rpm range. All this talk of Isolators on the forum lately convinced me to look at mine. My front one had a big tear in the bottom side. I already bought new front/rear isolators when I bought the bike last year because I know my rears were sagging, planned on putting them on this fall after riding season ended... seeing all the pictures of cracked heads due to riding with torn isolators, I figured I should replace the torn one. Took about an hour and 20 minutes total, the hardest part was finding out which combination of wrenches, ratchets, extensions, and sockets would fit in those tiny little gaps. Otherwise it was straight forward. My wife had just bought me one of those flat motorcycle scissor jacks, the ones you can get on ebay for about $40. Just in time, that job would've been a hassle without that one. I could've done it with a normal jack, but the fine adjustment on that one made it really easy to drop the engine just enough to get the sockets in there, and to move the engine up and down just enough to get the isolator and engine mount lined up perfectly to slip the bolt in without any problems. I've experienced what I've seen a few other people on here say... probably a little more vibration under 3k, a little less over 3k, and the vibration was definitely a bit more distinct/sharp. Too bad there's not a way to reverse that because I spend 90% of my time between 2k-3k rpm since I use the bike to commute, so I'm typically just putting along in traffic. I know my back isolators are shot, but I'm going to save that for fall when I replace my swingarm. |
