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Sbaugz
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 02:34 pm: |
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Just picked up a stock, mint S3 with complete touring package. Only 2300 miles on it. It still has original tires- which are cracking, etc. So, that leads me to my question. i ordered some new Metzeler Z6 tires. I have the front axle off, the front fender off, and the two main caliper bolts off. I cannot, for the life of me, get the caliper up and over the disc without it wedging in between the disc and the rim. What the heck are the tricks to getting it off? I have the shop manual, but that doesn't mention anything about this problem. Thanks. FYI- milwaukee, wi here. I also have a couple other bikes including Harley XR1200, kawasaki ZRX1100, and suzuki T500 titan. |
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2003xb9r
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 02:57 pm: |
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Have you got the brake pads out? This gives you more wriggle room. Some masking tape on the rim will prevent you scratching it up. It's a close fit but with patience... |
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Harleyelf
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 03:00 pm: |
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I always just split the caliper in two and replace the seals. |
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Steveford
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 04:30 pm: |
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It's like Chinese handcuffs - it CAN be done. Once you finally manage the trick with the pads out and the pistons pushed in all of the way do yourself a favor and file away a two portion on the back of the caliper until you can slide it on and off easily with the pads out. |
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Williamscottrobertson
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 09:15 pm: |
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Both my s2 and S3 calipers came off the PM wheels easily once the pads were removed and pistons pushed all the way in. |
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Ebutch
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 11:25 pm: |
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I like Steve Fords plan ! How about some pics of this S3 ?![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/bolt.gif) |
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Midknyte
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 01:43 am: |
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Agreed. A minty S3 requires photos. |
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Sbaugz
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 07:11 am: |
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![S3pic](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/809685.jpg)
![S3pic2](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/809686.jpg) Sorry the pic is dark. More to come later |
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Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 07:44 am: |
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I always just unmount the front disk. |
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Sbaugz
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 08:30 am: |
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update- got both the front and real wheels off. Bike is up on stands with several ratchet straps securing it from ceiling. Went with metzeler Z6 tires (they were only $140 for the pair and they seem to get decent reviews). Prior to ratcheting the security straps on my bike, it tipped over. The stupid fork stand tipped over and the bike fell to ground and tipped over. My heart literally stopped. My first tip-over in 25 years, after probably owning 40 different bikes in that time. Fortunately absolutely nothing happened to the bike, except the tiniest scratch on the frame near the front pegs. What a pisser that was- literally owned the bike for 2 hours and it tipped over on its side in my garage. I was damn lucky. |
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Harleyelf
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 08:52 am: |
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The rear footpegs hold jackstands nicely if you loosen them and spin them around 180 degrees. I use a ladder and ratchet straps for the front. |
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 09:46 am: |
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My process is: 1. loosen (do not remove!) front master cylinder lid 2. remove caliper mount bolts 3. rotate caliper sideways to use disc to push pads and pistons back in 4. remove front pads 5. remove front caliper. Like Steve, I have also filed the backside of my caliper just a bit for rim clearance - but I have a '95 S2 with the large PM caliper. I don't recall having to do the filing on my later tubers with the smaller calipers. |
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Upthemaiden
| Posted on Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 08:03 am: |
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"The stupid fork stand tipped over and the bike fell to ground and tipped over." Just about every bike I've ever tried to put on front and rear stands lately all had uneven front forks, one fork leg is usually slightly longer than the other because of how the axle clamps in. I've gotten in the habit of turning the front end at a little bit of an angle before I put it up on the front stand, which lowers one side and raises the other, making them he same level off of the ground for the front stand. The bigger problem comes when you try to put the front wheel back on and are trying to slide the axle through, if the fork tubes aren't even, you'll never get the axle into the other side. I can't remember for sure, but I'm pretty sure my S1 is the same way, and if that's the case, it would've had something to do with your front stand tipping over. |
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Robertl
| Posted on Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 02:57 pm: |
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I fought with my front caliper for hours trying to get it out of there with no success, even with the pads out. I finally split the caliper and bought some o-rings. Cast wheels. Had one hell of a time getting the air out afterwards also. Vacuum pump did not work. After reading a few posts here, I zip tied the brake level to the grip overnight and that did it so thanks for those that posted the info. |
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Upthemaiden
| Posted on Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 03:31 pm: |
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The last time I had a hard time getting it off I just loosened up the bolts on the brake rotor. That let me angle it out plenty for the caliper to slide off. Much easier than having to rebuild the caliper and try to bleed the system again. |
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89rs1200
| Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2017 - 04:48 pm: |
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Automotive Engine hoist is how I have lifted my Buells for years. Advantage is the whole unit can be moved around if needed. Pull off the seat and use straps through the frame just forward of where two frame pipes meet. |
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Sbaugz
| Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2017 - 07:42 pm: |
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My new tires got mounted and balanced today and the wheels are back on the bike. I ultimately ended up using four ratchet straps from the ceiling (two up front and two in rear) to support the bike while I put the forks and swingarm on stands. That seemed to work really well and I will definately use that technique in the future. On a side note- I mentioned above that my bike tipped over on the front stand (prior to me using the ratchet strap supports). initially I thought nothing happened from the tipover. I went to ride the bike today and noticed something was off. When I turned the handlebars all the way left, the right brake lever contacted the fairing and wouldn't let me turn the fork all the way to that side. After further inspection- my handlebars are bent on the right side (pushed forward). The brake lever was bent too. Another $78 later and I have NOS handlebars and a lever on the way from Surdyke Harley. When I ordered the new handlebars, I chose to order the S3T tall handlebars instead of the S# bars. My bike came with the factory touring upgrade so I figured I would throw the touring handlebars on there. I also ordered the exhaust mount upgrade kit from them earlier in the week for $120 shipped. (Message edited by sbaugz on July 06, 2017) (Message edited by sbaugz on July 06, 2017) |
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Sbaugz
| Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2017 - 07:47 pm: |
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still trying to sort out what I want to do about the exhaust. as mentioned above, I have the exhaust hanger upgrade on order. My Borla currently does not have any front mount at all. The previous owner must have taken it off or something. I am really debating going with a supertrapp or possibly a Dean Adams exhaust. Regarding this Borla. What do you think this is worth? I might sell it if I order a different exhaust. The carbon is near perfect. There are a couple small dents underneath the exhaust, but its otherwise in good condition. It sounds really awesome too!. |
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Yo_barry
| Posted on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 - 11:44 am: |
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I always removed the brake pads and loosened the front disk to get the caliper off of my 2001 S3T. YMMV. Barry Hollister, CA |
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